Swing arm service gone wrong.

MikeinNZ

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Sep 27, 2018
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106
Yikes! Glad you found the problem / got it apart.

Are these parts (including the shaft drive splines/etc.) pretty well greased from factory? Seems the factories are usually pretty skimpy on that to begin with, at least they were on my Suzuki bikes, but wasn't sure about Yamaha.
[/QUOT
WOW ! I’ve never seen it that bad before :eek:
My bike is special
 

stutrump

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Jul 25, 2013
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london uk
Good pics Mike. I'm really surprised mine wasn't thaaat bad. Must have got lucky coz it's always p***ing down in the UK and I ride all year round. I do have gaffa tape wrapped around the rear rubber bung on my swingarm though to stop it falling out and seal it.
 

SkunkWorks

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Sep 13, 2018
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I am really surprised there are holes leading into that Bearing/Sleeve cavity (IMHO-there should not be)
I would definitely seal those with some sort of epoxy, or something permanent.
Thank you for the pictures and the write-up.
I will definitely be taking a good look at mine when I do the first major service and valve-check.
 

MikeinNZ

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I am really surprised there are holes leading into that Bearing/Sleeve cavity (IMHO-there should not be)
I would definitely seal those with some sort of epoxy, or something permanent.
Thank you for the pictures and the write-up.
I will definitely be taking a good look at mine when I do the first major service and valve-check.
I have sealed the holes with epoxy after giving the cavity a bead blast. Hopefully that will do the trick.
 

MikeinNZ

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Holes filled. There is enough room to thread in a grease nipple on the lower face...It’s quite a big cavity but would allow me to fill/ flush the bearings without disassembly.
What are your guys thoughts?
 

ballisticexchris

Chris Moritz
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I think a zerk fitting is a great idea!! I have done it on a few of my bikes in the past. Just don't get carried away like some guys. I actually saw a picture of one on the shift arm pivot on the Super Tenere.
 

MikeinNZ

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New Zealand is in a pandemic lock down and my wife tells me that couriers won’t be delivering until the lock down is over. My parts order through Partzilla is on back order from Japan.
I don’t have a lathe so couldn’t machine anything up. I’m not allowed to leave my property unless for essential items and all the non essential shops are shut.
This was doing my head in looking at my bike spread across the garage floor. Possibly 6-8 weeks like this got me thinking.... I took my vernier calipers and started measuring everything I could think of looking to see if I had anything with the right ID or OD to whittle some bushes out of... turns out 33mm Alkathene pipe (black low density plastic) is the perfect size. I cut off two lengths with the drop saw and pressed them into the swing-arm. The greased bush was a hammer in fit. I have just refitted the swing arm and it feels silky smooth with no free play.
I’ll put it back together tomorrow and wait for the lock down to be lifted. I recon it should last a couple of months until my OEM parts arrive. It’s my birthday tomorrow and it’s going to be a good day...I might even be able to ride my bike around the house.A9444E8B-FCE4-4F4E-8A18-8BD7AC52154C.jpeg3FFA262A-EDF1-405C-920F-CA91F6006738.jpeg
 

RCinNC

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Last time I did my swingarm service, I used Belray waterproof grease on the bearings and all over the pivot shaft. We'll see how that worked out at the next service. I also use that stuff, along with O-rings, to seal the coil sticks from water intrusion. That's worked out well so far, in spite of the amount of time my bike has spend riding in rain.
 

ballisticexchris

Chris Moritz
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I have been using Belray and Maxis waterproof grease for pretty much everything chassis related for a long time. Cycledude makes a great suggestion using marine grease. My local mechanic uses marine grease for everything chassis related. I just bought some a while back and will give it a try.
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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I don’t want to hijack this gentleman’s post, but maybe add a little informative ‘helpful’ info.

After reading this post, and having extra time on my hands, I realized I should probably re service mine again. I forgot that three bolts come right out in five minutes, but the 4th bolt can’t slide out easily because the exhaust pipe is in the way. It’s always a drag knowing 95% of the job is done correctly but not the entire job.
So I decided to do the whole thing, pulled the skid plate, pulled the Arrow headers, and then was able to pull the 4th bolt out and service that bolt/bearing.

Here is the best part, if you put that bolt back in ‘backwards’ you will be able to pull this bolt out now to the right side, and the nut will now be on the exhaust side. I will be able to service all four bolts very easy and quickly now. WOW, how freaking nice !!!!

*Next time you have your headers off, make sure to flip this bolt around backwards for future maintenance, even if your not servicing your suspension that moment ! SO helpful !

Here are a few pictures of the area and the bolt “backwards”. Great tech-tip !DB3D0DA5-09C0-4EB3-892C-97658FEE4E69.jpeg45A9E2EC-73E2-4B14-9C43-A2A63AF3DBB6.jpeg5D9B9FB0-135D-4DED-8204-54B1F3DAEB85.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Alexander

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Mar 8, 2020
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Kansas City
Looking inside the pivot housing there are two holes that go through to the hollow swing arm! This is a poor design as it allows any dust/ water and dirt from inside the swing arm to enter the pivot bearing cavity. I will be sealing these up with sikaflex and I suggest you all do to.
Fun Fact: On the 2019 Tenere, there's only one such hole entering the bearing cavity, located on the "brake caliper side" of the swing arm. The hole on the driveshaft side appears to have been welded up from factory.

I'm a little puzzled why Yamaha would go through the trouble of making such a minor change, yet not do both sides -- unless mine was a casting or drilling mistake, or if they deemed it necessary to have at least one vent hole for some unknowable reason (access point for penetrating oil in the event of such a rust problem like Mike had? Did their engineers foresee owners installing zerk fittings, thus necessitating a vent hole somewhere? Anybody's guess).

Still trying to decide whether I want to seal it up permanently, or just fill it with grease to limit water intrusion. Don't want to use silicone as it could break off and plug up a rear drain hole.
 

MikeinNZ

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Sep 27, 2018
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106
I figured they were locating or spacing holes left behind from the casting process but could be wrong.
I’m still undecided on the zerc fitting. Parts are on back order and not available till the 28th of April :(
It’s a fairly complex casting that’s for sure and unbelievably light for the load it can take.
I have sealed all the rubber bungs in with clear silicone just to make sure this doesn’t happen again.
 

MikeinNZ

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Sep 27, 2018
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My parts arrived from the US and the backup set the same day from my local Yamaha shop... always the way
I replaced all the internals and seals and Cantab (member here) purchased my spare set ready for his service in case his are in bad shape.
The plastic pipe bearings lasted amazingly well if anyone else gets caught short.
Bike feels all new again.. happy days. 70D935B0-9AE5-4C07-A230-11AE115E19CC.jpeg
 

Xclimation

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Ft. Worth, Texas
Did anyone ever tap a grease zerk in the hole? I'm doing my swing arm today and was looking to benefit from another's experience...(with pics. of course...)
 

MikeinNZ

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Sep 27, 2018
Messages
106
Did anyone ever tap a grease zerk in the hole? I'm doing my swing arm today and was looking to benefit from another's experience...(with pics. of course...)
I didn’t bother in the end... I figured it would take 1/4 of a grease gun to fill the cavity and she’s heavy enough
 

Xclimation

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I did mine today. I have a 2015. I don't have this hole or it looks like it's plugged up with a plug similar to the oval/rectangle shaped one on the inside next to the wheel. There is a hole on the left side underneath just before the shaft. I would've taken pictures showing the plugs....but my hands were covered in moly paste...
 
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