Super Tenere Weight Distribution - 50%-50%? Trying to calculate where to install wheel chock

2aroundtheworld

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I am modifying a snowmobile trailer to carry 2 Super Tenere. It's essentially a flat platform that's 8' wide by 10' long.
I am thinking I should position the wheel chock so the center of the Super Tenere (weight-wise) is just over the axle.

Does my plan make sense? I am assuming the foot peg should coincide roughly with the center, but I need to go do some measurement.

The other option is to move them forward on the trailer to add a bit more weight on the tongue so it bounces a bit less. Similar to the U-haul set-up

Any insight or recommendation here?

Some images for reference:

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Sierra1

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You definitely want a good amount of tongue weight. Worst case scenario is that the trailer start bouncing and reduces the weight on the vehicle's axle. Jack knife to follow. Mr. Hughes is absolutely correct. Even all of the pictures you show, have the weight forward on the trailer.
 

GearheadGrrrl

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You want as much tongue weight as your trailer and tow vehicle will allow- Probably 200 pounds for that trailer, don't know about your tow vehicle but 200 pounds or heavier is common. I've hauled my S10, smaller bikes, and a couple sidecar outfits on a 4 by 8 trailer and even with the chock as far forward as possible I didn't reach that trailer and my cars 200 pound tongue weight limit. But I recently hauled a 700 pound sidecar outfit on a 700 found 6 by 12 trailer and had to mount the wheel chock about 30 inches back from the front of the trailer, so on an 8 by 10 trailer with 2 S10s I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't mount the chock all the way forward without overloading. Just have to get out the bathroom scale and do some trial and error...
 

Eville Rich

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My understanding is that you want about 10 to 15 percent of the total trailer weight on the tongue. So if your trailer and bike weigh 1500 lbs, tongue weight should be 150 to 225 lbs.

On my 12 foot utility trailer that I use for trailer bikes, I found that having even out two 250 bikes up as far forward as possible was not desirable. It towed a little funny. Unloaded the tongue weight was 80 lbs. I ended up setting my chock system further back. Got a little OCD with the tongue scale and did a lot of back and forth with bike placement. After finding my sweet spot, towing was improved.

Now, my trailer has its own dimensions and balance point. Suspensions, tires, and general dynamics can all create a different experience. It's going to vary. But the 10 to 15 percent approach worked for me.

Eville Rich
 

TenereGUY

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Yes, use aluminum flat stock underneath the trailer deck and then you don't have to be on a cross member. What chocks are you using? IMHO I believe that Condor Chocks are the best chocks out there for towing worry free and for not compressing the front suspension. Yes, you can put a jack stand on a scale to see your tongue weight and be exact but more importantly is to get a hitch that will be the correct height to keep your trailer level when loaded. Without a scale load the bikes and your tow vehicle rear suspension should compress an inch or two. Most people don't try to keep the trailer level. Some people do not realize that they can flip a drop hitch around and the it raises the hitch... just have to flip the ball too!
Happy trails,
TG
 
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Sierra1

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My Jeep has a max tow weight of 3,500lbs and max tongue weight of 350lbs. I rented the U-Haul 6' x 12' utility trailer w/o ramp. (ramp = 500lbs) I put my Tenere and an R6 beside each other, against the front wall. The FJR was forward as much as I could, with the front wheel between the Tenere and the R6. I kinda used the FJR as my adjustor. Loaded, the Jeep was level, (normally has a forward rake) and the trailer towed fine-ish. (needed more power) The trailer is 1,700lbs and the bikes about 1,300lbs, so I was at the Jeeps max. Tongue weight is key.

If anybody has a Gladiator, has anybody towed anything near its 7,700lb limit? My Jeep, and the Gladiator have the exact same power train, and gearing. And that 3,300lbs that I towed worked mine like a mule. I can't imagine trying to tow twice the weight.
 
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Madhatter

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is your jeep 2 doors or 4 , wheel base can effect towing .... longer wheelbase is more stable .
and with out copy and paste my trailer is not level , probably the hitch is 4 inches maybe 6 inches higher than level pulls fine , it is till about weight distribution . if the hitch was inverse of what I described it would handle terribly. wag wag wag .
 

Sierra1

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is your jeep 2 doors or 4 , wheel base can effect towing .... longer wheelbase is more stable .
Mine is a 4dr. And yes, towing capacities depend on wheelbase. That's why the Gladiator has a higher rating. It's sitting on a Ram 1500 frame. But . . . . it's a heavier vehicle to start with and yet it still has the same powertrain that I do. And mine struggled with half of what the Gladiator is rated for.
 

2aroundtheworld

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thanks guys for all the comments/advice. I just arrived at my destination after towing for 700 miles or so.

Everything is fine except for a small vibration between 40 and 50 mph.
It happened with all 3 different towing vehicles. It's very strange, it's like if it's going through the frame and reverberating to the steering wheel. It's more like a frequency that cycles every 30 seconds or so, At 60 mph I don't even feel the trailer behind my van (Ford Transit 250 Ecoboost).

The vibration was happening when I picked up the trailer with a sled on it, so I don't believe it's the load. It was doing it when empty also. I suspect it may have to do with these small wheels/tires.

View recent photos (1).png
 

Checkswrecks

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thanks guys for all the comments/advice. I just arrived at my destination after towing for 700 miles or so.

Everything is fine except for a small vibration between 40 and 50 mph.
It happened with all 3 different towing vehicles. It's very strange, it's like if it's going through the frame and reverberating to the steering wheel. It's more like a frequency that cycles every 30 seconds or so, At 60 mph I don't even feel the trailer behind my van (Ford Transit 250 Ecoboost).

The vibration was happening when I picked up the trailer with a sled on it, so I don't believe it's the load. It was doing it when empty also. I suspect it may have to do with these small wheels/tires.

View attachment 102482
My guess is a wheel bearing, loose bearing nut, or possibly the tread pattern of one of the tires.

fwiw - Those look to be 14" wheels, which are typically Load Range C, meaning max of 1870 lbs BRAND NEW with no wear. Figuring 650 lbs for each bike with the bars, boxes etc, plus at least another 500+ for the trailer and it looks like you were right at the rating for those tires. Because of driving around curves, either tire can receive the full weight of the loaded trailer so you probably were overloading them.
Even if they are 14" Load Range D of 2,200 lbs when new, you would've had little margin.
If those are 13" then the tries would've been way overloaded.
 

thughes317

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My guess is a wheel bearing, loose bearing nut, or possibly the tread pattern of one of the tires.

fwiw - Those look to be 14" wheels, which are typically Load Range C, meaning max of 1870 lbs BRAND NEW with no wear. Figuring 650 lbs for each bike with the bars, boxes etc, plus at least another 500+ for the trailer and it looks like you were right at the rating for those tires. Because of driving around curves, either tire can receive the full weight of the loaded trailer so you probably were overloading them.
Even if they are 14" Load Range D of 2,200 lbs when new, you would've had little margin.
If those are 13" then the tries would've been way overloaded.
Look again, those appear to be 10" or 12" wheels!
 

Tenman

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I have a friend with a featherweight Horror freight trailer with those little wheels. I was pulling it with my F150. I was doing 60mph on a hot summer day. I had 2 CR500's and some gear on it. Probably had 550 lbs. A tire blew and I thought it was gonna turn over before I could stop. I never put my bike back on it.
 
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