Super gets new feet.

solarinsocal

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Well......to start, I had a little "incident" off road that basically led to the destruction of a front wheel, bent fork outers, bent fork inners, and a bent upper and lower clamp. I was able to get the fork outers straightened but not so with the inner. I ordered a new set from Japan which took a couple of weeks to get in because they weren't around me here in Los Angeles. I was wondering what to do with the front wheel whether going with an original or getting an aftermarket one until I found out how much the OE cost. I decided that it was ridiculous to go with an OE so I found a place that is fairly local to me called Dr. John's MFS that built the wheel for me. Take a look! ::015:: I went ahead and decided to do the rear one as well!
 

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joneil

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Does this require you change over to a tubbed tire?
 

solarinsocal

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We are working on a way to keep it tubeless. Any ideas? We have a couple of different options that we will be trying. By the way is it safe to run a tire without a tube on a tubeless rim?
 

autoteach

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solarinsocal said:
We are working on a way to keep it tubeless. Any ideas? We have a couple of different options that we will be trying. By the way is it safe to run a tire without a tube on a tubeless rim?
Depends on how you do it, but the short answer is yes. The reason why I say that is if you have a tube and get a flat, what is the difference? I would check and see if tubliss has an option for you if you want to give it a shot. there may be other options as well.
 

tomatocity

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For tubeless, do a search for a recent build by Woody's.
 

3putt

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Some of the Tiger 800xc guys have modded the rear wheel for tubeless by using 3M 5200 marine sealant. Basically spread it evenly over the spokes and level it with a squeeze then wait 3 or 4 days for it to cure. Wheel must be safe for tubeless before trying this. No experience here, just what I have read on the internet so must be true! ::017::
 

solarinsocal

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AlsoRan said:
Are those nipples on both ends of the spoke or is it just a wrench flat on one end?
I haven't actually gone to see the wheel yet so I don't know. I will probably be able to get out to the shop tomorrow so I will take some more pictures then and also get the run down.
 

solarinsocal

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Don in Lodi said:
Did you go to the 21" front. 19" rear?
I thought long and hard about this. I commute on this bike and put on much more miles on road and in the canyon than I do off road. However, when I do get off road, I ride the bike very hard. In the end I figured safety on the road trumps my need to have a 21", 19" combination. Later on since now that I know that I can have it done locally, I can build a 21" front with a full time knobby on it that I can swap out for our off road adventures.
 

solarinsocal

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AlsoRan said:
Are those nipples on both ends of the spoke or is it just a wrench flat on one end?ot a chance to take
I got a chance to go look at my wheels and I found that the spoke are adjustable from both ends. I will finally be able to pick everything up this weekend and finally be up and running after about a month or so. I'm hoping that the silver wheels will look good.
 

tomatocity

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solarinsocal said:
I thought long and hard about this. I commute on this bike and put on much more miles on road and in the canyon than I do off road. However, when I do get off road, I ride the bike very hard. In the end I figured safety on the road trumps my need to have a 21", 19" combination. Later on since now that I know that I can have it done locally, I can build a 21" front with a full time knobby on it that I can swap out for our off road adventures.
What are you going to do for brakes? Have to read the original WASP 21" wheel build? It is on ADV.
 

solarinsocal

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tomatocity said:
What are you going to do for brakes? Have to read the original WASP 21" wheel build? It is on ADV.
I'm still using the stock hubs so everything should bolt right on. I wanted to keep my ABS. If I go with an aftermarket complete 21" I can ditch ABS for off road but for the street I want to keep it.
 

pqsqac

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They look good I think the silver would look awesome.
 

Don in Lodi

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solarinsocal said:
I'm still using the stock hubs so everything should bolt right on. I wanted to keep my ABS. If I go with an aftermarket complete 21" I can ditch ABS for off road but for the street I want to keep it.
The 21" has been laced onto the OEM hub as well, or was it Woody's machined a hub that takes the sensor ring?
Were your new rims sealed for tubeless? Probably shouldn't fiddle with the adjustable nipples at the rim.
 

Waspworks

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Don in Lodi said:
The 21" has been laced onto the OEM hub as well, or was it Woody's machined a hub that takes the sensor ring?
Were your new rims sealed for tubeless? Probably shouldn't fiddle with the adjustable nipples at the rim.
Woody Wheel Works can supply both.
He can (super) lace the 21" rim to the stock hub and retain the ABS, or, he can supply a complete new 21" front wheel assembly with extra strong super lace spokes mated to his new super-lite hub with integrated ABS ring mount. This allows you to use your OEM ABS ring and outer plate so the ABS is still fully functional.
This combo is super lite weight and looks and performs cool as hell..





This is what the front super light hub and sensor pick up assembly looks like:


You cant buy better than Woody's Wheel Works.

P.S - by the way, its 18" rear not 19"..

Greg.
 

jajpko

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Greg, that is one super looking bike!! You have really made a "Super" Tenere.. ::008:: ::008::
 

Waspworks

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japako said:
Greg, that is one super looking bike!! You have really made a "Super" Tenere.. ::008:: ::008::
Thanks mate.
I am very pleased with the look, but extra pleased with the way it feels.

I have always said this bike feels like a large XR600 to me. Even more so now...

Greg.
 

JaimeV

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I am also working in the 21” front wheel. I would like Woody’s but the transport from USA was too expensive.
My biggest problem was to find a 1.85 x 21” wheel with 32 holes. As far as I know, in Europe Excel only has 21” with 36 holes.
So, finally a Spanish manufacturer made me one. I hope next week I’m going to have it.
Meanwhile I ordered some metallic brake lines to avoid the bypass on top the mudguard and looking how to reach the mudguard.
I would like to keep the OEM mudguard but it looks as there is a very little margin. I’m going to see when the wheel arrives.
I don’t know if I can seal the rim to be tubeless, I was looking for the Tubliss system but apparently only works in narrow rims.
And we need to modify the ACD skid plate... the wheel doesn't fit... :(

Questions for Wasp: I was looking this post: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=4021.msg71882#msg71882

In there you said the compressed front suspension don’t use the last 32mm. I read the Yamaha manual and they say the front suspension is 190mm which h is the total fork distance including this 32mm. That makes a big difference because I think without this 32mm the front fender doesn’t fit.
Do you have any problems with this? Is that the reason you put a high fender? Does the high fender make any difference riding in high speed?
I’m also looking to take the horn in a different place, did you move it?

Cheers! ::003::



 
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