Spoke Broke Swing Arm Damaged

[Checkswrecks]

Lots of experience and wisdom form Woody here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72170

 

[olie]

I had the same problem the swing arm... it got scratched about 200 miles AFTER I hit a 4x4 x8ft long wood beam at about 75 mph on I-20 near Sweetwater TX. Both wheels got bent but holding air. Rode home and on following riding day 12 miles from home 3 wire spokes lost the nipples and damage and Akrapovic pipe.

Dealer advised me to pursue a insurance claim. Insurance company gave me hard time because the swing arm e Akra pipe were damaged AFTER the road hazard accident... eventually they caved and paid up.

Dealer did a good job assembling ALL new parts except I found out that the wire spokes are overtight ( well more than 6 N.m). Rode 320 miles but... debating what to do now?

 

[scott123007]

Leave 'em alone, olie. Virtually ALL spoke failures are from spokes being too loose, not too tight.

 

[JohnB]

BTW, what's the correct torque spec for the S10's spokes?

 

[EricV]

BTW, what's the correct torque spec for the S10's spokes?

From the paper Factory Service Manual - Page 3-16 - 6 Nm or 4.3 Ft/Lbs (4.3 x 12 = 51.6 or rounding up, 52 In/Lbs).

Do not fool yourself in to using a Ft/Lb torque wrench for this job, go get an In/Lbs torque wrench or do it by sound. A sharp ping means it's tight, a dull thud means it's loose. Use a screw driver handle to tap the spokes. It will be readily apparent which is which for even a first timer. It's a 5 mm allen. I use a 5mm allen socket and a 6" extension with my Mac Tools In/Lb torque wrench set at 52 In/Lbs. (I had it already).

BTW, the FSM also has the following "Be sure to tighten the spokes before and after break in." And the owner's manual has a service schedule that lists checking the spokes on it. (don't have that handy or I'd give you the interval. IIRC, it was supposed to be done at 600 miles, then every 4k after. I check them every oil change, just because it's easy to remember.)

Spoke tightening can be an art, but strictly IMHO, most of our wheels were pretty darn strait to begin with, so if you just tighten the odd loose ones, you're not going to put your wheel out of whack. I use the torque wrench and alternate sides, (you have to use two different angles for each side anyway, due to the angle of the spokes). I have checked my wheel for true, both vertically and horizontally and it's well within specs. But in the end, do what's comfortable for you.

 

[tomatocity]

Finally took the time to install the zip ties. Simple low cost solution to something that could take a lot of time.

 

[JohnB]

From the paper Factory Service Manual - Page 3-16 - 6 Nm or 4.3 Ft/Lbs (4.3 x 12 = 51.6 or rounding up, 52 In/Lbs).
Do not fool yourself in to using a Ft/Lb torque wrench for this job, go get an In/Lbs torque wrench or do it by sound.

Thanks, Eric. I just got one of these to do the job:
http://www.revzilla.com/product/excel-torque-wrench-set

 

[Don in Lodi]

Umm, don't think that will work with our spokes...

 

[JohnB]

Umm, don't think that will work with our spokes...

Do I need to order a different head attachment. If so, which one?

 

[EricV]

Umm, don't think that will work with our spokes...

Why not? It fits on the nipple side instead of using the 5mm allen on the end, but should work as advertised. I don't have the bike in the garage at the moment, but what's your concern?

 

[scott123007]

Why not? It fits on the nipple side instead of using the 5mm allen on the end, but should work as advertised. I don't have the bike in the garage at the moment, but what's your concern?

Eric,
If you did have the bike in the garage, you would notice that there are these pesky round metal things with holes drilled in them that are in the way, if you try to use a regular spoke wrench

 

[EricV]

I guess when I was using a small combo wrench it was the rear wheel I was checking...

 

[JohnB]

Eric,
If you did have the bike in the garage, you would notice that there are these pesky round metal things with holes drilled in them that are in the way, if you try to use a regular spoke wrench

So, I wasted $120 ? ::010::

 

[Don in Lodi]

I guess when I was using a small combo wrench it was the rear wheel I was checking...

I thought you were using a 5mm allen socket and an extension...

 

[Don in Lodi]

So, I wasted $120 ? ::010::

They should be willing to take it back... or you can save it to use on bikes with a normal spoke lay out.

 

[EricV]

I thought you were using a 5mm allen socket and an extension...

That is my normal process. The first time I checked the spokes, I used the twang and tighten method with a open end wrench, but that was a long time ago. I honestly don't remember if I had to change method for the front.

 

[phil Turner]

I put bmw crub screws into the spoke nipple, works great.

 

[terrysig]

i'll bite. what the hells a bmw crub screw?

 

[Don in Lodi]

BMW Grub screw... Google is great! It's a set screw that goes into the unused space in the nipple and tightens down on the end of the spoke... setting the spoke in place. Pretty slick.