Some interesting tid bits in the owners manual...

[markjenn]

"Deep cycle": I wasn't referring to the process, but the setting on the Sears charger.

My understanding would be that the "deep cycle" setting on the charger would be for use on batteries designed for deep-cycle use (e.g., golf cart batteries) which are of a different design with a different recommended charging schedule. I'm no expert either, but I wouldn't be using this setting on any conventional car or motorcycle starting battery.

- Mark

 

[Yamaguy55]

Fair enough. I'm not selling it.
Clarification: I only mentioned this as it has worked for me. When you read the factory manuals, you look at the remark about charging the battery and think: great, another purchase needed, like I don't have enough stuff in the garage already. In fact, I have an entire deep drawer in the roll tool box full of just special tools for motorcycles, and another for autos. I'm trying to keep this stuff limited to these two drawers, before it takes over the house.
I have a newish Sears charger ( model 200.71225) that I wanted to see how well I could maintain motorcycle batteries with. When my FZ required a new battery, I used the old one to road test my ideas, and that's what I found. I make no claim that you'll get he same results with something else, but I did find my test to be successful, at least from my point of view. It has low amp settings, but in my past experience, it doesn't "deeply charge" for lack of a better term, newer batteries. Could just be my perception. So I dug out the bulb from the past (I used to have a variable power supply that I used for this sort of thing, not a battery charger, but it finally gave up..20 years or more old) and tried all the different settings on the Sears charger. That's the one that gave me the highest residual voltage after a long charge.

 

[ptfjjj]

Every bike I have, and know of, made since about 2004 has these batteries. A battery tender will float charge them fine. I use a Sears charger set to "deep cycle" with a halogen bulb in line (series) and when the lamp goes out, you're charged. A guy that works at DEKA told me that one. We're in the middle of batteryland around here, with DEKA and Yuasa, Exide and a few more. I've done this enough to be satisfied that it works, as I just changed the battery in my 2004 last year, and the JD has a battery from 2002. Certainly doesn't kill them.

Yamaguy55, I have a Sears charger that I mostly use for my boat battery, but I have always just used the settings provided on the charger straight up. Could you possibly describe your setup for me? How, exactly, do you plug the halogen bulb into the circuit? do you have some sort of bulb holder? Obviously, I am somewhat ignorant on the use of these things, and I'm guessing that there are others here that could benefit from your advice. You and Markjenn seem to have a bit of knowledge on the subject, and I, for one, appreciate the effort from you guys to educate those of us that don't.

 

[Yamaguy55]

Yamaguy55, I have a Sears charger that I mostly use for my boat battery, but I have always just used the settings provided on the charger straight up. Could you possibly describe your setup for me? How, exactly, do you plug the halogen bulb into the circuit? do you have some sort of bulb holder? Obviously, I am somewhat ignorant on the use of these things, and I'm guessing that there are others here that could benefit from your advice. You and Markjenn seem to have a bit of knowledge on the subject, and I, for one, appreciate the effort from you guys to educate those of us that don't.

I have an old halogen bulb from a set of long gone driving lights, it has short wires on it. I soldered a set of lugs onto it, and clamped the battery charger lead to one end, bolted the other to the battery terminal. I may get ambitious and mount it on a scrap of wood or something else, with ceramic insulators/standoffs, and make a nice setup out of it. I had only gotten to the test thing last fall, so haven't gotten around to a permanent thing yet. I have a too full life as it is.
The point of the entire post (on my part) was that you really don't need to go out and buy a new charger just for this, if you have something already. The goal is a slow, yet long charge that fully charged the VRLAB without charging so hard there is heavy outgassing and overheating, which will damage any battery. In the bad old days, a stiff charge would make the plates flake off into the bottom of the battery, shorting it out and killing it. The new batteries are drastically more resistant to this, but still not made of impervium. The bulb trick was told to me by a guy that works at Deka, a very large battery manufacturer that is somewhat local. He explained that a charge that is slow, yet long, will more fully charge a modern lead-acid battery than any fast charge. Plus, no overheating/excessive outgassing, etc. so I gave it a test and satisfied myself that I wasn't being fed bad info. And, I wanted to do it with every charger I had, to see if that made a difference. I think that other settings on my larger charger would probably work as well, but what I think is going on with the deep cycle marine setting is it maintains a longer session of slow charge at the end, getting a full compliment of electrons in the plates. You can never have too many electrons. I didn't do an amp check, just the bulb thing. I did notice my older battery ended up with a better charge this way. I just checked it: it is still at 12.42 VDC, and the last time I charged it was last fall. So while it won't hold the higher charge that my new one will, it isn't on its last legs.
The whole thing I was trying to avoid was overstressing the charging system on the FZ: motorcycle systems (at best) are designed to keep a charged battery charged, but rapidly do themselves in charging a sick one. An associate has replaced stators and regulator/rectifiers numerous times trying to keep his older bike running, I didn't want to go there with an electric start only, FI bike. Seemed like being pro active was far less demanding: I said I have an over full life as it is (got home from work last night, in a snowstorm, after 11 PM) so I do anything I can NOT to work on stuff.

 

[ptfjjj]

Thanks for the prompt and complete reply. Reading of your description of motorcycle charging systems gives me the idea that you periodically recharge your batteries as a preventive measure? My riding season is pretty much year round, so I have never really thought of charging as a preventive maintenance item, but I have noticed that my batteries rarely last longer than 3 years. I had always thought that it was because of the prolonged hot climate, but will this kind of battery PM actually make the battery last significantly longer? indefinately?

The whole thing I was trying to avoid was overstressing the charging system on the FZ: motorcycle systems (at best) are designed to keep a charged battery charged, but rapidly do themselves in charging a sick one. An associate has replaced stators and regulator/rectifiers numerous times trying to keep his older bike running, I didn't want to go there with an electric start only, FI bike. Seemed like being pro active was far less demanding: I said I have an over full life as it is (got home from work last night, in a snowstorm, after 11 PM) so I do anything I can NOT to work on stuff.

 

[Yamaguy55]

Thanks for the prompt and complete reply. Reading of your description of motorcycle charging systems gives me the idea that you periodically recharge your batteries as a preventive measure? My riding season is pretty much year round, so I have never really thought of charging as a preventive maintenance item, but I have noticed that my batteries rarely last longer than 3 years. I had always thought that it was because of the prolonged hot climate, but will this kind of battery PM actually make the battery last significantly longer? indefinately?

Yes, I keep my batteries fully charged year round. Even in the summer, when I can't get a chance to get out and ride (stoopid work schedule: I never ride when really tired, and I'm frequently really tired) The poor motorcycles shiver in the shed with the JD and other things from the end of November until around now. Last night we got more snow. Its already gone, but the salt isn't. I tend to get anywhere from four to seven years out of my batteries. So while the bikes are in the garage now, they are still getting a charge with the battery tender off and on. I can tell by how long it is on there how low they were; of course, cold makes them need more charging. This has been an unusually long and unpleasant winter.
My stuff usually lasts me a very long time. Most people are quite surprised to find out my FZ is a 2004 model. I was raised that way, my father didn't tolerate those that beat their stuff to death. Thought they were fools, which I would tend to agree. I expect my XT1200Z to last me at least ten years, probably more. So I'll put whatever it takes into it to make it happen, Cheaper than a new bike.

 

[SisuTen]

All new Deltran Battery Tenders are fully automatic and will work on your bike. All provide a full charge regardless of low or unstable AC line voltages.

Here's how Deltran explains their automatic charging system:

"The Battery Tender Plus battery charger delivers 1.25 amperes during bulk charge mode, holds the battery charge voltage constant at 14.4 VDC during absorption charge mode until the battery charge current drops to 0.1 amperes at which time it then automatically switches to a float charge mode. During float charge mode, the output voltage of the Battery Tender Plus battery charger is 13.2 VDC, which is well below the gassing voltage of a lead acid battery. This keeps the battery topped off, while minimizing any detrimental effects to do gassing. The Battery Tender Plus battery charger is able to perform these complex switching functions because its electronic circuitry is controlled by an on board microprocessor.

Although they often appear to be a better economic choice for the typical consumer, trickle chargers do not have the advantage of sophisticated electronic control. Therefore, as they allow the value of charge current to trickle down to what appears to be safe levels, the output voltage of the charger rises well above 15 VDC, sometimes even going higher that 16 VDC depending on the charger type and the battery that is connected to it. Either voltage is well above the gassing voltage of a lead acid battery. If the battery remains connected to this high level of voltage for an extended period of time, even less than 1 day, extreme damage can be done to the battery. What appears to be a cost savings for the charger may actually cost several times the charger price in replacement batteries."

The Battery Tenders usually used on motorcycles charge at a rate of 12V@.75 Amp for the BT Junior or 12V@1.25 Amp for the BT Plus.

I own 4 or 5 (can't remember) that I've used continuously over the last 25 years without a single failure. As soon as I get off the bike, it goes on the charger, summer and winter. I usually get a minimum 5 years from my batteries. There are other charger brands that I would assume are as good, but in light of my experience, why would I bother changing.

Again, I receive no compensation from Deltran, though I wish I did.

Paul

 

[HoebSTer]

have we talked about the exhaust pressure or something? what is that all about?

 

[colorider]

I own 4 or 5 (can't remember) that I've used continuously over the last 25 years without a single failure. As soon as I get off the bike, it goes on the charger, summer and winter.

I have two of the basic BT units that I have been using for about the last 7-8 years without a failure of either the charger or the battery they were hooked to. I use them year around.

 

[20valves]

I use them year around.

+1

If not riding, mine are on the BT+. I've had OEM dirt bike batteries last over 4 years. AAMOF, I've sold my last three dirt bikes with the OEM batteries still in them, running strong. My '06 FJR is still on its OEM battery and it starts/runs perfectly.

 

[switchback]

My 03 WR450 is still on the original battery ??? Perhaps I need to update before something happens 8 yrs is a long battery life.

 

[Mike Sisson]

My 03 WR450 is still on the original battery ??? Perhaps I need to update before something happens 8 yrs is a long battery life.

That's impressive!

 

[trinc4me]

That's impressive!

indeed!

 

[RogerJ]

What markjenn said about the Battery Tender Plus. Mine has worked fine for the last six months and charges up fine. The battery sits on its left side edge with the terminals kind of in a 12 and 6 position. Works fine in that position too.

 

[~TABASCO~]

I have BT on all my bikes....... The I have crap cheep batt's in a few and they last about 3-4 years with BT.... I have a few with gell or dry batt's, and the last one I changed out was ALMOST (like two three moths shy) of nine years old on a 2001 Yamaha R* My 08 FJR is stock batt and starts like the first day.... Even in 100 + Texas heat.....

 

[sail2xxs]

Sorry to change the subject a bit - what's up with the exhaust pressure setting?

I just read a post in the fuel mileage thread that mentioned something baout changing the setting from 1 to 10...

Please tell me this bike will not be harder to "program" than a VCR!!!!

Chris

 

[SilverBullet]

Here you go right off of page 3-15 of the owners manual:
This function allows you to adjust the brightness of the LCD, and the tachometer panel and needle to suit the outside lighting conditions. To set the brightness
1. Turn the key to “OFF”.
2. Push and hold the left button.
3. Turn the key to “ON”, and then release the left button after five seconds.
4. Push the right button to select the desired brightness level.
5. Push the left button to confirm the selected brightness level. The display returns to the odometer or
tripmeter mode.

I've had my Tenere for almost 2 years. From day 1 have strained to see the display clearly at night. Display contrast was not friendly for my old farsighted eyes as no reading glasses on when riding. Well yesterday I went to set the clock to DST and forced to open the manual for the process. In doing so I read a sentence about adjusting display brightness. Sure enough when I checked my brightness was set only halfway so I adjusted to full brightness. Much better for me and now can actually read the odometer at night. Not crazy about the added ambient light output but can't have it both ways.

So I searched this topic and found only this one thread. Decided to bump it up instead of creating an entirely new duplicate thread.

Also did you know with key OFF or OUT of ignition you can view the clock? Yep just press once on the left button and it displays the time for a few seconds and then goes off.

_

 

[78YZ]

I just saw this thread and ran out to the garage to adjust the brightness. I too struggled to see the display. Thanks!!!

I've had my Tenere for almost 2 years. From day 1 have strained to see the display clearly at night. Display contrast was not friendly for my old farsighted eyes as no reading glasses on when riding. Well yesterday I went to set the clock to DST and forced to open the manual for the process. In doing so I read a sentence about adjusting display brightness. Sure enough when I checked my brightness was set only halfway so I adjusted to full brightness. Much better for me and now can actually read the odometer at night. Not crazy about the added ambient light output but can't have it both ways.

So I searched this topic and found only this one thread. Decided to bump it up instead of creating an entirely new duplicate thread.

Also did you know with key OFF or OUT of ignition you can view the clock? Yep just press once on the left button and it displays the time for a few seconds and then goes off.

_

 

[WJBertrand]

I've had my Tenere for almost 2 years. From day 1 have strained to see the display clearly at night. Display contrast was not friendly for my old farsighted eyes as no reading glasses on when riding. Well yesterday I went to set the clock to DST and forced to open the manual for the process. In doing so I read a sentence about adjusting display brightness. Sure enough when I checked my brightness was set only halfway so I adjusted to full brightness. Much better for me and now can actually read the odometer at night. Not crazy about the added ambient light output but can't have it both ways.

So I searched this topic and found only this one thread. Decided to bump it up instead of creating an entirely new duplicate thread.

Also did you know with key OFF or OUT of ignition you can view the clock? Yep just press once on the left button and it displays the time for a few seconds and then goes off.

_

The clock thing does not work with my '15.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Cycledude]

Switched batteries a couple weeks ago so the clock time needs to be reset but I haven’t been able to get the hours or minutes to flash so I could adjust them, I must be doing something wrong but haven’t been able to figure it out ??