Small "gap" in power delivery

[Nikolajsen]

Nikolajsen, yes, "S" does make that big of a difference. Like a totally different bike. Fuel delivery is more touchy/twitchy, but you'll learn to make smaller throttle inputs and smooth it out. But, and CW was correct, I was twisting the throttle hard when it lifted. And, thankfully, the ECU did shut it down. BUT, I wasn't twisting any harder than I have before. So I definitely think that CW is right about the 5K mile thing also. It's either that or the engine REALLY likes cool weather. (to us, 75 is cool) And I should have known that ABS/TCS share a sensor; accell or decell, it's still wheel speed.

Perfect. ::008::
I have tried to give full throttle a couple of times, just to feel the acceleation (and to se what happens, not pulling wheelie).
Just having the the S10 very slow in 1'st, the just full throttle (no cluth or anything else). And the front wheel lifted a bit around 4000 rpm (as I remember it), and also when changing to second gear....but not much, I hardly feelt it.
It might have been in "T" mode, i don't remember...

 

[Terminus]

assume we have a sandwiches short of a picnic

::025::

Don't think I have heard that one before.... I will remember it!

 

[Sierra1]

It might have been in "T" mode, i don't remember...

If you had ANY wheel lift, it had to be "S". To me "T" feels like I'm missing a cylinder. ::025::

 

[Paletes3]

If you had ANY wheel lift, it had to be "S". To me "T" feels like I'm missing a cylinder. ::025::

Agree on that. Once I was slow flittering traffic and thought I was on T, gave it a quick throttle to clear my back and the front wheel just lifted off - while I was thinking "wtf?" I looked at the dash and it was on S... I was on 2nd gear and that torque lifted the bike so easy that I'm glad the TCS was "vigilant" and after a few meters the wheel landed so smooth that cagers might thought that I was some hooligan pro rider > ... but that scared me a lot :-X

 

[chris_d]

That was quite noticeable with the Gen1 bikes, not so much with the Gen2.

Is there way of fixing/bypassing the power limiting in the lower gears for Gen1 bike?

 

[Checkswrecks]

You can run a search from the home page for threads with the two ways to do this:


1. ECU re-flash. Definitely the way to go with the Gen1 bikes. You simply pull the ECU, send it to be re-flashed, and should have it back and on the road within a week. The search will give you a number of people and places who can do the job for you. Cost is in the low to mid $200s.


2. Clutch jumper mod which jumps the wires at the left hand grip. There are a couple of downsides to this, especially if you twist the throttle to full open to clear a hard start.

 

[chris_d]

You can run a search from the home page for threads with the two ways to do this:


1. ECU re-flash. Definitely the way to go with the Gen1 bikes. You simply pull the ECU, send it to be re-flashed, and should have it back and on the road within a week. The search will give you a number of people and places who can do the job for you. Cost is in the low to mid $200s.


2. Clutch jumper mod which jumps the wires at the left hand grip. There are a couple of downsides to this, especially if you twist the throttle to full open to clear a hard start.

Thanks!

 

[ace50]

"Small "gap" in power delivery"

This is a 270° engine, that's a large gap between power! ::017::

 

[Nikolajsen]

"Small "gap" in power delivery"

This is a 270° engine, that's a large gap between power! ::017::

Very funny...