Running HOT

Mad_Matt

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I took my new ST out for a shakedown run yesterday and noticed that when stopped in traffic, the engine temps would rapidly climb to 220* before the fan would kick in and bring the temps back down to around 205*. Given that it was only in the mid-60"s yesterday this has me worried. At speed, temps ranged from 170-190*

Thoughts? Should I start with a coolant flush?
 

RCinNC

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At a dead stop in traffic, or even crawling through traffic, that's been my experience with the S10. My fan kicks on at 221. At a crawl, or a dead stop, there isn't much airflow over the radiator, so the temp goes up pretty fast.
 

Sierra1

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Especially at the first red light after being on a highway. Engine is running at 4k with bunch of airflow. Then it's not.
 

TenereGUY

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Well sit right down as I have a story to tell!
I got this bike last February and immediately sent out my ECU to be flashed by Anthony on this forum. Did a lot of stuff all chronicled (What TenereGUY has been up to) and went to Northern Georgia in April. Was starting out in the 40’s and by the time we got on the back "fire roads" NW of Dahlonega it was hovering near 60 in the mountains. I was doing a lot of 1st and 2nd gear work between 5 to 13 mph and the fan was running constantly! I was very concerned. As soon as I got up to 17 to 20 it would go off. The radiator is perpendicular to the air flow and it is the nature of the beast. Now why did I mention having it flashed? As you have seen it gets up to 220-221°F and the fan kicks on and turns off as said around 205°F. Mine being flashed turns on at 204°F and turns off around 194°F so my fan turns on sooner but has a narrower window. So, yes... if going slow or full stop fan kicks on and whines away. All good. If you want it cooler a flash will do that. Still is on though. My CBR 1100XX Super Black Bird turns on around 230! If I stop it gets there quickly on a warm day. Change your coolant within the manufacturer's recommended intervals and don't worry about it.
 

scott123007

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Unfortunately, that's perfectly normal. Small, side mounted radiator, is just enough to keep it at proper temperature when moving, but shortly after the bike stops with the engine running, or in slow going, the fan will come on to keep it from overheating. Not sure how low the temperature has to be to keep this from happening, but it will definitely do it in the 60's.
 

Mad_Matt

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Have I mentioned how awesome this forum is? y'all rock! I think I will go ahead and replace the coolant as part of my baseline maintenance, but now I know this is normal.
 

RCinNC

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On a related note:

It's not a bad idea when you get a new bike (or at least, new to you) that you just figure on changing all the fluids. Brake, clutch, coolant, oil, final drive. Unless you really know the owner of the bike pretty well, you don't really know how long it's been since any of those were done. If you do them all yourself (or have them done), then you'll have a starting point for any future changes, and you'll always know how old your brake fluid etc actually is.

I ride year round, and it can get into the low 20's-high teens here in NC in the winter. If I'm sitting still for too long, eventually the fan is still going to come on. The real warning sign is if the fan is on and the temperature is still climbing past 220; then you have some sort of issue.

I have a radiator flush/coolant change guide that I made, and follow it when I do the coolant changes. I can send it to you if you want. I contains info both from the service manual and from a post that 2daMax made on this forum that has some really nice photos of the procedure.
 

TenereGUY

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Have I mentioned how awesome this forum is? y'all rock! I think I will go ahead and replace the coolant as part of my baseline maintenance, but now I know this is normal.
They even made that easy to do but some belly pans or bars get in the way of the stream. Have a funnel/scoop made out of aluminum foil ready to redirect the flow if necessary.
I have a distilled water from the grocery store to flush with and mix the coolant if not using premixed. I still flush with distilled no matter what.
 

Mad_Matt

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I have a radiator flush/coolant change guide that I made, and follow it when I do the coolant changes. I can send it to you if you want. I contains info both from the service manual and from a post that 2daMax made on this forum that has some really nice photos of the procedure.
Yes, please Ron!
 

RCinNC

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TenereGuy makes a good suggestion, and I'm not sure that's in my guide; you need something to direct the flow of coolant into a pan when you drain it, or else it makes a mess. I just took a piece of cereal box cardboard about 4" wide by 10" long, wrap in it aluminum foil, and bend it in half lengthwise to make a chute. It keeps the coolant from dripping all over the exhaust pipe and making a stink when the bike gets hot.
 

Sierra1

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. . . . Not sure how low the temperature has to be to keep this from happening, but it will definitely do it in the 60's.
As long as I'm not continually stopped at lights. the fan stays off. Even in our 105°+ Summers. I can ride around town without the fan activating, but if I catch two lights in row, yup, it's coming on.
 

RCinNC

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I got stuck in bumper to bumper traffic this summer in Pigeon Forge for over an hour, and the fan cycled constantly. As soon as the fan cooled it down from 221 to I think 205 and shut off, it started to heat right back up until the fan kicked on. As soon as I got moving again, it dropped back to the 170-180 range, even when it was in the 90s.
 

GearheadGrrrl

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Minnesota, USA
Done quite a few parades with the S10 and there were only a couple occasions when the cooling system wasn't adequate. During a couple parades with temps in the 90s the fan would run continuously as it couldn't keep the temps below the 221 F fan turn on point. For such occasions and human cooling too I keep a couple gallons of water handy and a mister, sprayed down the radiator with the water and it cooled down below 221 F. Also, a strong sidewind from the left will fight the radiator fan and make it work harder.
 

Tenforeplay

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Kansas, USA
Whether you lose coolant also hinges on the design of the cooling system. Depending on whether the radiator cap is on the suction side or pressure side. On the suction side you can get away with about a 6 psi cap. On the pressure side it takes a 16+ cap to contain the coolant.
 

TenereGUY

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If you never have to worry about freezing Temps and you Want better heat transfer you could use Water Wetter. Freezing point is32°F
 

holligl

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No complaints from me. Go ride a Pan Am when it's hot. The radiator on the side is brilliant. The heat goes away from you. Couple years ago at the IMS, I rode several bikes. The only ones that did not cook me was the T7 and electrics.

Mine is flashed too.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk
 
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