Rough idle, struggles at <12 mph on uphillls

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WookinPaNub

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Hello all,
I recently was having a few performance issues and completed a valve clearance adjustment / replaced plugs / swapped air filter ( see HERE). While this addressed the majority of the problems, I am still seeing the following symptoms and would be interested in thoughts:

  • Idles at 1k, but 'dips' every now and then and sounds like it starts to stutter then recovers back up to idle.
  • When going uphill at slow speeds (under 12 to 13mph) she will do it, but seems to struggle a bit. Once over that speed then engine sounds good and the powerband is fine.
Given the recent repairs, is there something I'm missing. I've never done a Throttle Body Synch, would that potentially be related? On *much) older bikes I could tweak an idle adjustment screw, but don't think that's applicable on this bike. Any ideas?
 

~TABASCO~

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Yes.... I mentioned the TB sync and what to do in your last thread....... bump it to 3/4 turns out and sync it.... that will help the majority of your issue.... All your plug coils looked the same and good ? No rust ?
 

Cycledude

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Most folks say the Super Tenere has excellent lugging power I say it’s crap, low gear should have been much lower.
 

MattR

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When I had my ecu flashed the tuner found the OEM fuel map at low Rev ranges extremely lean. In fact, when he showed me, it was off the scale. He richened it up to the correct ratio and it cured the off idle stumble and produces more torque coming out of bends at low rpm now


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WookinPaNub

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Yes.... I mentioned the TB sync and what to do in your last thread....... bump it to 3/4 turns out and sync it.... that will help the majority of your issue.... All your plug coils looked the same and good ? No rust ?
Sounds good and makes sense. Reading the various threads / videos on the forum related to this and looks *much* easier than the Valve Clearance repair :) I do have a Carbtune Pro for the sync and will do that today along with the 3/4 adjustment you and others are recommending as the baseline and adjust from there.

Plug coils all looked good, no rust. Same with the plugs. On my 2013 I actually had the next gen OEM CCT (the 23P version if memory serves) and left that in place as others have said that one works pretty well.
 

~TABASCO~

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Sounds good and makes sense. Reading the various threads / videos on the forum related to this and looks *much* easier than the Valve Clearance repair :) I do have a Carbtune Pro for the sync and will do that today along with the 3/4 adjustment you and others are recommending as the baseline and adjust from there.

Plug coils all looked good, no rust. Same with the plugs. On my 2013 I actually had the next gen OEM CCT (the 23P version if memory serves) and left that in place as others have said that one works pretty well.




As the "sync" goes.... Thats not a base line....... You screw out the white painted makes one out 3/4 of a turn from seated position.............. You then sync the other side until it matches the (3/4 turned) side................................ Once that side matches,,,,,, you're done............ that's all you need.................
 

WookinPaNub

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As the "sync" goes.... Thats not a base line....... You screw out the white painted makes one out 3/4 of a turn from seated position.............. You then sync the other side until it matches the (3/4 turned) side................................ Once that side matches,,,,,, you're done............ that's all you need.................

Sorry, wrong terminology but that was the intent / understanding. Starting into it, will confirm results shortly.
 

WookinPaNub

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Results of the TBS
  • What I did
    • Warmed up the engine
    • Installed the Carbtune Pro (don't forget the "T" requirement for the hoses on the left side per the service manual)
    • Took the initial readings
    • Set the white (throttle screw on the right when sitting on the bike facing forward) to 3/4 or 270 degrees counter clockwise off 'soft stop'
    • Watching the Carbtune Pro then adjusted the throttle screw on the left side until the readings matched
  • Areas it Improved
    • Originally the throttle bodies were bouncing around between the 15-17 cmHg . After the adjustment they were more consistent at 17-18 cmHg
    • She will maintain 7-8mph on her own on flat ground
    • On the uphill at slow speeds she does not struggle as much
  • Questions / Possible areas of improvement
    • The service manual indicates the normal idle speed of 1050 - 1150 RPM. Mine is more 950 - 1050 RPM. How can I adjust that up so it idles even smoother?
    • In THIS VIDEO he also used a Carbtune Pro and his readings were around 25-26 cmHg, whereas mine ended up around 18cmHg using the same tool?
    • I've read the 3/4 turn approach may differ depending on which Gen of bike you have. Mine is a 2013. Is the 3/4 turn the recommendation for my year as well?
    • On the slow uphill, while better, it still feels like it's "lurching' from time to time (not continuous / smooth)?
 

bimota

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this may help

rob
 

WookinPaNub

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this may help

rob
Thanks. Reading that thread it recommends doing the TBS (which I just completed) and then if that doesn't address it to get a ECU flash? I'll keep that in mind then, thanks
 

Jlq1969

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When I had my ecu flashed the tuner found the OEM fuel map at low Rev ranges extremely lean. In fact, when he showed me, it was off the scale. He richened it up to the correct ratio and it cured the off idle stumble and produces more torque coming out of bends at low rpm now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And what happened to fuel consumption?….did it decrease? (as in 99.2% of reflashes)….or increase?
 

WookinPaNub

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I think you need a smaller bike. A crossplane 1200cc twin cylinder motorcycle is not going to be smooth at 13mph in ANY gear. Either giddyup or get a moped.
Sure, I've had all different kinds of bikes over the past almost 40 years of riding and I do have a Tenere 700 as well at this point for the more aggressive rides. However I don't remember the Super 10 having these issues when I first purchased it, which tells me its either 1) Something is still not fixed correctly and I need to find out what that is or 2) at 57k there is just wear and tear / the EFI system isn't optimally calibrated and an ECU reflash may be the answer to getting it run more optimally. If you have thoughts on that I'm all ears, but "get a moped" isn't overly helpful advice... ;)
 

WookinPaNub

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Vacuum line/cap cracked? Forgot to plug air temp sensor back in after you removed airbox to replace plugs?

Not pedaling fast enough? :p
Good questions, as I remember a guy on this forum talking about discovering a cracked vacuum cap on the right side throttle body on the cap. When I did the TBS both lines were pliable and felt to be in good condition.

The airbox has two connections if memory serves, the rubber host connecting from the valve cover to the underside of the airbox (a bit of pain to get reconnected) and then a electrical connector on the right side and I connected both of those up during reassembly.

And she's a big girl all armored / equipped and shows that weight a slow speeds :D Outside of Colorado this idle / off idle issue isn't that big of a deal, but in the Rocky Mtns on rocky steep mining trails I can't continually slip the clutch to compensate for the slower speeds needed so hopefully I can figure this out...
 
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