Rotor Replacment

Zepfan

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Best place to buy front / rear brake rotors (disc) ?
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/12 ??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Set-Brake-Rotors-Discs-for-Yamaha-XTZ-SUPER-TENERE-1200-10-11-12-2013-New-/281418082357?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 ??

Had a soft slide / crash and slightly bent my front left. My rear is not in good shape for some reason either.

Front breaks are mushy due to warp age of one rotor. Thought I some how got air in the line and bled w/ no change. Saw the slight warp on further inspection.
Strange you don't feel it while riding.?? Have to pump front right now for firm response.

Gracias amigos!
 

markjenn

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I don't have any specific comments on this Ebay part, but I've had very poor luck with non-OEM brake parts, both on cars and bikes. Since you only need one disc, I suspect the cheapest option is to buy one OEM disc.... this is what I'd do. You might look into a used part from a salvage yard too.

- Mark
 

greg the pole

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I would be careful with non OEM rotors, and pads especially.

My front ones are at 60% after 51km/30miles. I'm on my 3rd or 4th set of rear pads.
One set being EBC pads, that pretty much destroyed the rear disk, and lasted all of 9km.

Back to oem for good braking and longevity
 

yz454

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Don,t buy it , got 50,000+ on my bike . Over 15,000 with cheap dics , You do a search you will find that most of discs out there are Chinese . Just bot a 270mm for 2015 yz450 it,s a Gaffer repackaged .
 

Ramseybella

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The KTM Rotors I have in the front are bomb proof wish I could find a rear rotor from KTM that would fit or who makes the rotors for KTM.
25700 miles and still look new, the rear OEM is just about ready to replace another 5000.
 

BHTENERE

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Red Hook, NY
Greg the Pole wrote:
I would be careful with non OEM rotors, and pads especially.

My front ones are at 60% after 51km/30miles. I'm on my 3rd or 4th set of rear pads.
One set being EBC pads, that pretty much destroyed the rear disk, and lasted all of 9km.

Back to oem for good braking and longevity



I was just wondering did you use the EBC organics for your rear pads? I was going to get the EBC organic rear set for my bike and I would think that they would be the same material as the OEM organic pads. If they caused any gouging of the disk, then I will just stay with the OEMs.

Thanks,
 

greg the pole

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I honestly don't remember which ones they were.
but basically went through them as if made from cheese...
 

yz454

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I use EBC HH front and standard in back . don,t care about how the dics looks , they are their is to stop my ass . I ride in to much mud and gravel for them to look good.
 

2112

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I have seen first hand the state some Chinese made discs end up in, not pretty. You may be lucky and they may be OK but I would go for something reputable like Andylaser said EBC or the like.
 

talonboy

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You may be able to straighten the front rotor. I kicked up a rock a year or so ago, and it hit the brake carrier, and bent is slightly. I was able to remove the rotor from the bike, and beat it straight. Has worked fine for the last year. I have done this several times with dirt bikes, with the same results. Your mileage may vary.
 

Zepfan

Inuvik to Darien. Dream to ride, ride for ADV.
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What a PAIN! $230 each !!!! :eek:

OEM, Yamaha, Back Ordered Dec. 5th. :(

Ordered EBAY cheapos ::)

I'll check them out, maybe return. I should replace both the fronts and pads correct? On top of that my rear is channeled. Yikes! almost 1K for OEM !!!

THERE AREN'T ANY AFTERMARKET DISC'S THAT I CAN FIND ?? Very specific to model # XTZ12BCL 2012 ??

Any advise on good aftermarket ? Strange how a warped disc can make the brakes go mushy but can't be felt in lever ( no chatter ).
 

markjenn

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Zepfan said:
What a PAIN! $230 each !!!!
One of the vendors I've used a couple of times (mrcycles.com) is showing $138 for the OEM rotors with free shipping.

I should replace both the fronts and pads correct?
If the old pads look Okay and have "meat" left, I'd try and reuse.

Strange how a warped disc can make the brakes go mushy but can't be felt in lever ( no chatter ).
Can't speak to why you aren't getting pulsating, but a badly warped disc does exactly as you're noting. The lateral runout in the disc pushes the pads back into the caliper between brake applications - the mushy feeling is because you're having to pump the brakes back up to move the displaced fluid back to the caliper. Knackered wheel bearings can also cause excessive disc runout and the same symptoms. Also violent headshake (like you can get after landing a wheelie slightly crossed up) can shake the pistons back into the calipers and result in no brakes next application.

- Mark
 

scott123007

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markjenn said:
Can't speak to why you aren't getting pulsating, but a badly warped disc does exactly as you're noting.
- Mark
A floating disk (which we have on the S-10) will sometimes "absorb" the wobble in the disk when the brakes are applied. When the brakes are released there is still enough resistance to movement of the disk by the springs in the disk retaining rivets to push back the pucks.
 
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