Rostra Cruise Control Install January 2014

[justbob]

I used an air drill, the drill body is smaller than an electric drill, you could also use a dremel tool with a drill bit.

 

[Wistrick]

I used an air drill, the drill body is smaller than an electric drill, you could also use a dremel tool with a drill bit.

Dremmel tool was my first thought but I still don't see a way to get it in there from either side...If you take the black plastic piece off then the linkage is blocking the cam??? and coming it from the other side is a no go... Iam assuming u do this with the TB's still in place right????

 

[rush2112]

I used the loop attachment in the kit and drilled a hole for a cotter pin in the throttle wheel. I added some heat shrink to smooth it out.

I fabricated this bracket from aluminum to hold the outer cable. It still has a bit too much slack but it works well so I have left it alone. 44,000 miles now with no issues. I love it. ::012:: It is a huge help on long trips. Much much better than a throttle lock, especially in hilly areas like out west.

OK, I recall that I did come in from the throttle body side and had to have my daughter pull the throttle back so that the position I wanted to drill the hole was top dead center. It was kinda hard to get the bit to start but once it bit it went thru, then thru the other side.

 

[Wistrick]

what is the purpose of the spring u added in there????

 

[Wistrick]

Follow this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669228

I did the cotter pin hookup with the loop.
Used the bracket to hold the cable similar too.

From the link:

ok I have it hooked up s shown, how much slack is needed????

 

[justbob]

I think its best to use the ball chain on the end of the cruise cable, using about 4 or 5 balls to prevent the cable from binding when the throttle is operated.
Too much free play in the cable is bad, the more free play there is in the cruise cable, the more lag or delay there will be when activating the cruise control. Adjust it as snug as you can without it actually turning the throttle, leaving just a little free play.

 

[Wistrick]

I think its best to use the ball chain on the end of the cruise cable, using about 4 or 5 balls to prevent the cable from binding when the throttle is operated.
Too much free play in the cable is bad, the more free play there is in the cruise cable, the more lag or delay there will be when activating the cruise control. Adjust it as snug as you can without it actually turning the throttle, leaving just a little free play.

I was reading on some ones (Supercruise) install that taking to much slack out of the cable caused it to be really jerky on engagement...I also read someone else report that they fixed the delay in the engagement by flipping dip switch 9 to ON.....Guess I will have to play with it...

One other thing I got a loose piece of paper in my instructions that said for my model, or Rostra lost motion was built into the cruise control nd added beads where not needed...Not sure what that is about..

Dan

 

[rush2112]

Let is know how dip switch 9 on works.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[jaeger22]

what is the purpose of the spring u added in there????

Yeah it does look a bit kluggy :-[ But it works and it is hidden so I left it. It is probably not really needed but I didn't like the fact that when I went from open throttle to closed (CC not on), the thin section of cable would some times bend and form an exposed half loop instead of pushing the thick cable neatly back into the cable jacket. With CC off, there is nothing to pull the slack cable in, it is just pushed in by the throttle wheel. It didn't look like it could catch on anything but the slack cable loop made me uncomfortable. So I added that long and very light spring just tie wrapped to the cable. It just helps retract the thicker part of the cable back into the cable jacket when I close the throttle. It looks like crap but works great. The cable cleanly retracts every time with no loose slack.
Also I seem to remember that I did drill the hole for the clip with an electric hand drill without removing the throttle wheel. It is very tight, and I had to come in at more of an angel than I liked and the hole is slanted. It doesn't seem to matter though. It just looked like it would be a real pain to remove that wheel so that I could get it out and drill it flat. So I took a short cut. . .

 

[oilfield_trash]

Has anyone on the left coast done this? I am entirely uncomfortable with this level of screwing with my bike. My only other hope is to show this thread to my mechanic and pay.

 

[Gonzodog]

Guys,

I'm a little confused with wiring in the 250-3592 (lighted control pad with engaged light).

Do I need to get another 5 pole relay to wire the engaged light? It seems that the directions I have are in conflict.

Per Supercruise's write up the 5 pole relay is wired as:

87 not used
87A violet brake cold
85 +12V when brake light lit
86 ground
30 +12V power supply

Rostra's instructions for the 250-3592 control pad show:
87 Pink wire from control pad
87A not used
86 Ground
85 Orange wire from cruise module (servo box I assume)
30 +12V power supply

So, does this mean I need to get another relay?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[justbob]

The first relay wiring shown is for the brake circuit when used with a LED brakelight, which the Tenere has.
The 2nd relay wiring shown is for the additional relay required if you want to activate the engaged light.

 

[Gonzodog]

Finally completed the Rostra install today. Holds speed very well under load +\- 1 mph. Definitely works best in 6th gear. For some reason, riding local roads, remembering to shift up into 6th is something I tend to neglect. Tends to hunt a little on down slopes but it is acceptable.

I set it up with about 1mm of slack in the throttle pull cable from the Rostra.

Overall, I don't like the Rostra as well as the Audiovox vacuum powered unit I had on the FJR. The AVCC had a tighter control loop with less dead band.

But, given there is no good place to put the bulky AVCC on the S10 it will have to do.

Anyway, thanks to all for your guidance.

 

[patrickg450]

The first relay wiring shown is for the brake circuit when used with a LED brakelight, which the Tenere has.
The 2nd relay wiring shown is for the additional relay required if you want to activate the engaged light.

did I miss the relay post?

 

[patrickg450]

relay was easy, on the Rostra site they had it, then I found it in a thread here that I did not have open. Did the diagnostic test, all passed, forgot to set my dip switches...............it worked but did not hold a good speed. Tomorrow, did switches................