Rear Wheel Bearings

[holligl]

Notchy feel at last tire swap so I ordered bearings which I have now. Wheel is off and rough feel verified. The hub clutch bearing spins nicely. My problem is I can't find a blind bearing puller to borrow from any auto supply place, HF's kit is $75 over kill. Ordered a $25 fleabay kit that will arrive sometime next week. I'm just putting it back together to move on to the front tire replacement.

Question is this. What kind of warning do you get before these fail? I'm assuming the minimal riding I might do in the next week wouldn't be a problem.

It will spin on the stand for just under a minute but does try to walk off my stand given the resistance.

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[MattR]

I wouldn’t ride it now you know the bearing are gone. Could cause damage and be unsafe. Also, I probably wouldn’t use OEM replacement but instead use a better quality bearing such as SKF.


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[Checkswrecks]

I haven't needed to try it with these wheels but usually you can use a soft aluminum or brass punch from the other side to keep tapping the back side of the bearing and work it out. I remember a discussion where somebody found replacements at NAPA auto parts.

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

I haven't needed to try it with these wheels but usually you can use a soft aluminum or brass punch from the other side to keep tapping the back side of the bearing and work it out. I remember a discussion where somebody found replacements at NAPA auto parts.

That what I do, solid copper or brass.

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Notchy feel at last tire swap so I ordered bearings which I have now. Wheel is off and rough feel verified. The hub clutch bearing spins nicely. My problem is I can't find a blind bearing puller to borrow from any auto supply place, HF's kit is $75 over kill. Ordered a $25 fleabay kit that will arrive sometime next week. I'm just putting it back together to move on to the front tire replacement.

Question is this. What kind of warning do you get before these fail? I'm assuming the minimal riding I might do in the next week wouldn't be a problem.

It will spin on the stand for just under a minute but does try to walk off my stand given the resistance.

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What’s with the Ty-raps and the big gold weights? And the white is that dirt or corrosion?

Stefan.

 

[DamonS]

sage advice is to just not ride it until the bearings are replaced. its not so much the warning the bearing gives, but the collatoral damage it can do. you now have a compromised bearing, not doing its fair share of taking the load, that transmits to other components, that aren't designed for additional load and you have a lattice of failures (now if its only a week and say a hundred miles or so probably talking tinfoil hat doomsday levels of warning).

The real worst case is that the bearing liquefies and seizes, causing the outer race to spin on the rim, making your new bearing not quite a press fit and prone to slipping in the bore, requiring a new hub or someone with adequate machining skills.

I made a reverse puller (a pusher?) by slicing a piece of round stock in a cross pattern, then from the other side I slide a flat screwdriver or even better the skinny end of a seal puller tool into the slots i made and giving it some love taps. the wedge shape of the tool, pushes out on the round stock based on the cuts i made grabbing tightly the inner race of the old bearing and with some more taps with a hammer, out it comes without a complaint, and nice and straight too. have fun getting the bearing off the tool, but hey, the bearing is out right? right?

 

[OldRider]

Why use something soft to knock the bearing out? The hard steel in the bearing will just tear a piece of brass or aluminum up. I have a couple different sizes of round steel rods I use for knocking them out. been using the same rods for years.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Ive been with two people on the afternoon the wheel bearing blew up.... No warning at all.... going along and then, grinddddddddddd,,,, more grinding........ more grinding........ I suggest you STOP instantly. I was with a buddy that we happened to be about 5-8 miles down a gravel road before we hit any black top. Once we got to black top it tore up all the components on the right hand non drive side. Ripped off the ABS, tore up the mount, hub, brakes, ABS plate, brake pad, disc vent plate, ABS ring, Etc. It really does a job on all those parts... It actually starts to machine itself into the rear hub when that bearing fails.

Pulling the bearings: When changing out the bearings I just tap them out with a big punch and then set them aside not to be used again. Then I have a bearing press to re install new bearings. I dont really care what damage I create on the old bearings because they are about to go to the recycle bin.

Im my Tenere experience. If you KNOW that you have a notchy / crunchy rear wheel bearing on a Tenere (and you have pulled it apart and then reinstalled the bearing) I would suggest you NOT ride it until they are replaced. Ive replaced many sets of wheel bearings and they can go at anytime, with no warning. If you decide to ride you might get 5 miles or 5000K miles before it blows up and fails. And depending on when you notice it you will have tons of damage and expense. If your tip-toeing town a gravel road when it goes you will hear it grinding. Hopefully you have a good AAA 'pick you up service'. If your cooking down the high-way and maybe listing to music when it goes, (rear) you will probably see the ABS light pop up first on the dash, then the engine light, and then all the lights on your dash will turn on and your speedo will go NUTS or just drop off to zero when your going 75...... ask me how I know this? By this time, once you pull over you will need a TON of new parts other than the $20 bearing.

The biggest issue is the little bearing on the right rear (non-drive). This is always the biggest culprit. The fronts use the same bearings and they tend to go south swell. With all the bearings Ive changed out before the "average" miles on these bikes (blown bearings) tends to be about 40K miles on that rear non drive. I have a friend with a high milage Tenere, the one mentioned above. We have changed out his rear right (3-4) times I believe. Two times it actually blew up and grenaded, one other time it was just preventative because it was a little notchy.

If anyone ever THINKS they have a notch, or drag, or "crunchy" bearing on a Tenere, please just change it out with a new one before you go ride more... Financially and safety, not worth it.



(soap box) don't power wash your bike, ever..... so many parts are ruined because of the high pressure water getting into stuff. It always cracks me up when people then reply, I stay far back so I dont mess up anything.................. LOL. What part of "ever" did you not understand... LOL

 

[holligl]

67kmi on original bearings, so I am due, but I'm sticking with OEMs. I have a complete set, F&R, along with new seals.

Once I get the puller I ordered I will do all of them except the hub clutch. The front doesn't feel as rough, but doesn't spin as long as the rear on the stand (maybe the rear just has more mass).

Curious, how hard do these bearings come out, and press in? If you can work them out with a punch from the opposite side, they must not be too tough.

I won't ride any distance, maybe just around the block to check the new tire installation.

The brass weights are reusable, fit on front spokes, and I have ground them to fit on the rear center ridge. Got tired of those stick on steel square weights and the residue they leave.

The white on the rim is probably residual mounting lube. No corrosion, but I do have a lot of rock chips on the rims.

On the rare occasion I wash it, it's with nothing more than a garden hose. In my book, dirty bikes have more character. I also use plenty of grease during reassembly.

Thanks for all the suggestions and input!

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[holligl]

What’s with the Ty-raps...
Stefan.

The cable ties will capture and contain any spoke that might come loose or break. I did just check all the spoke torques. That takes a while...

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[holligl]

FYI, the puller I ordered

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[Tenman]

FYI, the puller I ordered

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Where did you find that puller

 

[holligl]

Where did you find that puller

Ebay

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[gv550]

I’m still running the original rear bearings and seals at 192k, but I did replace the fronts with OEM at 40k after I thought they sounded a bit noisy when prepping for the ride to Tuktoyaktuk. I bought a similar Chinese puller set that holligl has pictured and didn’t work for me, the expanding collet part wouldn’t grab the bearing race well enough. I’ve since used the pullers for other jobs so not a total waist of money. With advice from oldrider I was able to push the bearing spacer off to the side enough to get a punch onto the opposite bearing and knock them out. Even after beating on them, the original bearings still feel fine so I’ve been carrying them along as spares.
With plans of riding to the rally in Whitehorse, and a major service planned as a celebration for rolling over 200k, new OEM wheel bearings and seals are on the list.

 

[OldRider]

Slide hammer puller works pretty good.

 

[scott123007]

Wheel bearings CAN and SHOULD last damn near forever. Here are three things you can do to prevent premature bearing failure. 1) Remove one of the seals on the bearing itself (either a good existing one, or your new replacement one) and pack it with more grease. Normally, you are not supposed to over pack a bearing because they can actually overheat and fail. That however, is for bearings in applications that spin many thousands of RPM's. The most our wheel bearing spins is around 2000 RPM's, so no issue there. Since the manufacturer does not know how the bearing is going to be used, they do not over pack them. 2) From the bearing itself, to the outermost edge of the dust seals, pack with grease. This does nothing to compromise their sealing ability, but has huge benefits in keeping water and other shit from getting in. 3) MOST IMPORTANTLY, make sure the bearings, when installed, are TIGHT against the inner spacer BEFORE you install the wheel. If you can move the inner spacer by hand after the bearings are installed, that means there is a thousands or two of clearance still in there. It is not enough to make the bearing actually move more when you tighten the axle, but it is enough to create a side load on the inner race of whichever bearing is not bottomed all the way. My personal opinion is that that is the leading cause of premature bearing failure. However, if you can't make the spacer tight by bottoming both bearings, then that means the bearing seats were not machined deep enough in the hub, or, the spacer is too short, from the factory, which "could" be the reason some of you have had consistent problems with bearing failure. The only real remedy for that would be to get another spacer made that was maybe 10 thousands longer so the bearings would clamp the spacer before they bottom in their seats.
Hope this helps

P.S. OEM bearings are as good as any.

 

[gv550]

Slide hammer puller works pretty good.

That is the puller set that I have, but the expanding jaws wouldn’t grab the bearing.

 

[gv550]

Wheel bearings CAN and SHOULD last damn near forever. Here are three things you can do to prevent premature bearing failure. 1) Remove one of the seals on the bearing itself (either a good existing one, or your new replacement one) and pack it with more grease. Normally, you are not supposed to over pack a bearing because they can actually overheat and fail. That however, is for bearings in applications that spin many thousands of RPM's. The most a wheel bearing spins is around 2000 RPM's, so no issue there. Since the manufacturer does not know how the bearing is going to be used, they do not over pack them. 2) From the bearing itself, to the outermost edge of the dust seals, pack with grease. This does nothing to compromise their sealing ability, but has huge benefits in keeping water and other shit from getting in. 3) MOST IMPORTANTLY, make sure the bearings, when installed, are TIGHT against the inner spacer BEFORE you install the wheel. If you can move the inner spacer by hand after the bearings are installed, that means there is a thousands or two of clearance still in there. It is not enough to make the bearing actually move more when you tighten the axle, but it is enough to create a side load on the inner race of whichever bearing is not bottomed all the way. My personal opinion is that that is the leading cause of premature bearing failure. However, if you can't make the spacer tight by bottoming both bearings, then that means the bearing seats were not machined deep enough in the hub, from the factory, which "could" be the reason some of you have had consistent problems with bearing failure. The only real remedy for that would be to get another spacer made that was maybe 10 thousands longer so the bearings would clamp the spacer before they bottom in their seats.
Hope this helps

P.S. OEM bearings are as good as any.

Wheels turn 200 rpm, not 2000.

 

[holligl]

Wheel bearings CAN and SHOULD last damn near forever. Here are three things you can do to prevent premature bearing failure. 1) Remove one of the seals on the bearing itself (either a good existing one, or your new replacement one) and pack it with more grease. Normally, you are not supposed to over pack a bearing because they can actually overheat and fail. That however, is for bearings in applications that spin many thousands of RPM's. The most a wheel bearing spins is around 2000 RPM's, so no issue there. Since the manufacturer does not know how the bearing is going to be used, they do not over pack them. 2) From the bearing itself, to the outermost edge of the dust seals, pack with grease. This does nothing to compromise their sealing ability, but has huge benefits in keeping water and other shit from getting in. 3) MOST IMPORTANTLY, make sure the bearings, when installed, are TIGHT against the inner spacer BEFORE you install the wheel. If you can move the inner spacer by hand after the bearings are installed, that means there is a thousands or two of clearance still in there. It is not enough to make the bearing actually move more when you tighten the axle, but it is enough to create a side load on the inner race of whichever bearing is not bottomed all the way. My personal opinion is that that is the leading cause of premature bearing failure. However, if you can't make the spacer tight by bottoming both bearings, then that means the bearing seats were not machined deep enough in the hub, or, the spacer is too short, from the factory, which "could" be the reason some of you have had consistent problems with bearing failure. The only real remedy for that would be to get another spacer made that was maybe 10 thousands longer so the bearings would clamp the spacer before they bottom in their seats.
Hope this helps

P.S. OEM bearings are as good as any.

Seat new bearings dry, or does a little grease help? Per the manual, I do need to check my sockets and washers for appropriate driver sizes.

 

[WJBertrand]

Curious, how hard do these bearings come out, and press in? If you can work them out with a punch from the opposite side, they must not be too tough.

The trick is to work your way around the back side of the bearing, keeping it as square as possible to the bore as you tap it out. If it gets too far cocked in there it'll get stuck and be much harder to remove.