Re-Grooved My Mostly Worn K-60

[Mark R.]

My K-60 rear tire was never very grippy in the dirt and mud, and I have been wearing it out quite a bit faster than I expected I would. It has 3600 miles on it, and will be lucky to see 6000 at the rate that I am shagging it.

I got a tire groover because I wanted make some of the grooves that are only halfway deep along the center strip a bit deeper, and I am also playing around with cutting up the center strip for more dirt and mud traction.

I have not ridden it yet, but I am pretty sure it will perform better off road than it would before my transformation. I might make the center grooves a bit deeper later. What do you think?

 

[snakebitten]

I think you need to come back and confirm your predictions!

I also think you hold the tool in your hand that has the potential to REALLY settle this once and for all.

I would like to see you be less timid with your attempt, than the others who have tried this before you. Cut more! Make a dirt bike "Block" out of that center strip. Don't mess around. In fact, err on the other side, if you know what I mean.

I love the K60. I'm amazed with it's off road accomplishments. But I just climbed some mountains with a tire that was n o t i c e a b l y more grabby. (Kenda Big Block knobby) But because the Big Block is irrefutably a short life span suicide tire, it can't even be considered as a viable dual role weapon.

A K60, with that amazing long life rubber compound, would make a fantastic 4000-6000 mile dirt tire. Let's see if you can turn it into one?

Nobody else has even a 4000 mile dirt tire.

Cheers to your efforts!

 

[Mark R.]

Yes, I was thinking about a bit more cutting action in the center, but I will give what I have done a try first. Thanks for the feed back.

 

[Karson]

make that beast look like a more agressive shinko 705! i'm fully on the k60 boat, though - railing it hard on the twisties (hwy 92 in CO up top to the Blue Mesa Res) two up the K60 performed great, even two up. Grooving out that solid center, yet hopefully still retaining good hardball mileage, would result in the perfect tire for me.

looking forward to your long term impressions!

 

[Checkswrecks]

To be open about it, I cut mine too. But from somebody who works with tires regularly . . .

As a street oriented mod, you did just enough for water clearing and the manufacturers ideally would only use a similar shallow sipe to move water. But tires wear and so they need additional depth to account for that. You can always take another cut later. Right or wrong, if there is an accident in which an insurance adjuster sees the tire (rare) modified and thinks tread had some implication, your insurance WILL be void.


Dirt bike tires generally are cut more into blocks to create a paddle effect, which is different than just breaking the surface tension of water that creates hydroplaning. But the taller blocks will lead to shorter tread life, can lead to scalloping, block tearing, etc.


So it's a matter of which way YOU want to go in the compromise.


Note also that you used the right. Using a sharper bit in a dremel or other tool that doesn't result in a generous radius at the bottom of the cut can result in tearing of the block or tread. Never EVER cut past the base profile that the raised tread is above, and anything (workmanship or damage in use) that exposes cord ought to result in trashing the tire. Goofs can be both dangerous and expensive.

 

[Mark R.]

To be open about it, I cut mine too. But from somebody who works with tires regularly . . .

As a street oriented mod, you did just enough for water clearing and the manufacturers ideally would only use a similar shallow sipe to move water. But tires wear and so they need additional depth to account for that. You can always take another cut later. Right or wrong, if there is an accident in which an insurance adjuster sees the tire (rare) modified and thinks tread had some implication, your insurance WILL be void.


Dirt bike tires generally are cut more into blocks to create a paddle effect, which is different than just breaking the surface tension of water that creates hydroplaning. But the taller blocks will lead to shorter tread life, can lead to scalloping, block tearing, etc.


So it's a matter of which way YOU want to go in the compromise.


Note also that you used the right. Using a sharper bit in a dremel or other tool that doesn't result in a generous radius at the bottom of the cut can result in tearing of the block or tread. Never EVER cut past the base profile that the raised tread is above, and anything (workmanship or damage in use) that exposes cord ought to result in trashing the tire. Goofs can be both dangerous and expensive.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Hopefully I can get a ride in this weekend and report back.

 

[Mark R.]

Did a couple of rides on some dirt / gravel roads, and can report that the tire has a bit more grip, and a bit less squirrelyness. I have a new K60 coming from Jaxon, and it is going to get the side groove and center strip treatment before I have have it fitted. I will deepen the angled grooves that are only half cut later when the tire gets some wear.