Clawdog60
Well-Known Member
Has anyone seen any improvement in cooling with the baffle removed?
Err, where did you think the air would be coming in from to push it thru the radiator?it blocks the lower part of the radiator and forces the air to come in through the top opening
no shorts no air dumpErr, where did you think the air would be coming in from to push it thru the radiator?
And why are you wanting to do this? The bike's don't run hot. And what makes you think you need an improvement in cooling to begin with?
Please don't tell us because the bike dumps hot air on your bare legs when you ride in shorts.
Cowling diagram HERE
I'll work on getting a pictureI can't recall reading about anyone removing what you seem to be talking about in the last 10 years. It would be more helpful if you found the part number in the diagrams I linked to for cowling parts and told us exactly what you were thinking of removing. I suspect it's part of a larger piece.
You need to understand a subtle difference. The bike is not running hot, nor does it need to run cooler. You're talking about YOU wanting to be cooler. That's a completely different animal. People have put ducts in to deflect the airflow from the radiator away from their leg. IIRC the fan comes on at 200F.
It's a big bike. Stop and go traffic in the heat sucks. Good riding gear makes a lot of difference in what heat you feel while riding, but stopped in traffic the only thing that really helps is a bag of ice in your lap. That might not be applicable for your scenario.
my fan kicks on at 220 not good. I should put a manual bypass switch on it but that will probably fry the ecuI can't recall reading about anyone removing what you seem to be talking about in the last 10 years. It would be more helpful if you found the part number in the diagrams I linked to for cowling parts and told us exactly what you were thinking of removing. I suspect it's part of a larger piece.
You need to understand a subtle difference. The bike is not running hot, nor does it need to run cooler. You're talking about YOU wanting to be cooler. That's a completely different animal. People have put ducts in to deflect the airflow from the radiator away from their leg. IIRC the fan comes on at 200F.
It's a big bike. Stop and go traffic in the heat sucks. Good riding gear makes a lot of difference in what heat you feel while riding, but stopped in traffic the only thing that really helps is a bag of ice in your lap. That might not be applicable for your scenario.
A re-flash of the ECU can lower the fan operating temperature. Mine switches on at 205F and off again at 195F after an Anthony flash. The ECU has not burned up, I think the ECU probably just signals a relay rather than directly supply the full current needed to run the fan.my fan kicks on at 220 not good. I should put a manual bypass switch on it but that will probably fry the ecu
It's not me I'm concerned with its the engine sitting at 220 degrees and not cooling down.
19k miles haven't changed coolant yet. was planning on it after a upcoming trip. At 60mph about 70%RH 94*F 178*coolant temp. sure would be nice if fan kicked in at 200. I'm seeing about a 10* cooler running temp with diverter removed. I know don't screw around with design but it appears to be lacking.Does your fan come on?Sorry, just saw your post. The fan works, that's good. I no longer have a FSM to look up the temp the fan comes on at. I was remembering 200, but from what others say, that's the low end. Don't mess with the design of the system. Do verify that it's correctly in place.
How many miles on the bike, and how long since the coolant has been changed? Coolant should generally be changed every two years. It's cheap and easy to do yourself. What I remember from both my Super Tens is that the fan would come on and it would slowly cool down. The hotter the ambient temp, the slower it would cool down while sitting in traffic or stop and go.
I honestly think you're stressing about something you don't need to stress about.
my fan only kicks on in extreme hot humid conditions and slow or stopped traffic and 90+ degreesI understand what your worried about but apparently it’s unnecessary worry and that’s the way Yamaha designed it, I have noticed my fan seems to kick in easier since I installed TRex Crash Bars and skid plate, the skid plate seems like it would definitely slow down cooling more than the previous Yamaha skid plate I had. Apparently Yamaha figures it should be able to handle 220+ easily.
yeah I'm going to half to get a flash done.If you're talking about this inner panel part (#23 in the image below). There's actually experience that the bike runs much hotter if it's missing. There was a thread here about it not too long ago. I think part #25 in the other image actually helps the fan draw air through the bottom part of the radiator, like the radiator shroud on an automobile. The bike will likely run hotter, especially when the fan is needed, without it. If this part seems to be blocking air to the radiator, it may have been knocked out of place. That happened to me in a relatively minor tip over on the left side. The two little plastic rivet pins (#25 in this image) were popped out and lost. It should be flush to the inside of the outer cowl.
View attachment 81252
A re-flash of the ECU can lower the fan operating temperature. Mine switches on at 205F and off again at 195F after an Anthony flash. The ECU has not burned up, I think the ECU probably just signals a relay rather than directly supply the full current needed to run the fan.
yes #23 is the baffleIf you're talking about this inner panel part (#23 in the image below). There's actually experience that the bike runs much hotter if it's missing. There was a thread here about it not too long ago. I think part #25 in the other image actually helps the fan draw air through the bottom part of the radiator, like the radiator shroud on an automobile. The bike will likely run hotter, especially when the fan is needed, without it. If this part seems to be blocking air to the radiator, it may have been knocked out of place. That happened to me in a relatively minor tip over on the left side. The two little plastic rivet pins (#25 in this image) were popped out and lost. It should be flush to the inside of the outer cowl.
View attachment 81252
A re-flash of the ECU can lower the fan operating temperature. Mine switches on at 205F and off again at 195F after an Anthony flash. The ECU has not burned up, I think the ECU probably just signals a relay rather than directly supply the full current needed to run the fan.