Power Port Issue

[robp]

Bike = 2021 ES, OEM power port
Phone = iPhone 8

A couple weeks ago I rode to Big Bend for a long weekend and during that time I attempted to charge my phone using the stock power port with a USB adapter. The phone did not charge and eventually I had no phone battery left and no phone during most of the weekend.

I went for an hour ride today and tried to charge my phone. When I connect the adapter/cable/phone the phone originally displays the 'lightning bolt' symbol, indicating it was taking a charge. However at the end of the ride the symbol no longer displayed and the charge percentage was the same as when I started the ride. Maybe the USB adapter is no good? Or does the power port not supply enough power? Any thoughts?

 

[MFP]

Bike = 2021 ES, OEM power port
Phone = iPhone 8

A couple weeks ago I rode to Big Bend for a long weekend and during that time I attempted to charge my phone using the stock power port with a USB adapter. The phone did not charge and eventually I had no phone battery left and no phone during most of the weekend.

I went for an hour ride today and tried to charge my phone. When I connect the adapter/cable/phone the phone originally displays the 'lightning bolt' symbol, indicating it was taking a charge. However at the end of the ride the symbol no longer displayed and the charge percentage was the same as when I started the ride. Maybe the USB adapter is no good? Or does the power port not supply enough power? Any thoughts?

Did you use an Apple branded or Apple-certified charging cord or a generic cord?
Have you tried powering another device to see if the power port is live?

 

[robp]

Power port will run a 12V mini compressor
Cord is a braided cord that I use for travel charging with other power sources
USB adapter is from an undetermined source but seems to charge the phone when used in a car

 

[MFP]

Power port will run a 12V mini compressor
Cord is a braided cord that I use for travel charging with other power sources
USB adapter is from an undetermined source but seems to charge the phone when used in a car

If you have an Apple iPhone charging cord give that a try and see if it works. I have found that the braided
charging cords you pick up from gas stations and pharmacies, etc., can be a bit unpredictable when mixed with
Apple or other brand USB adapters.

 

[WJBertrand]

I've had issues with some 12v to USB adapters staying seated. Seems like bumps and vibration cause them to back off and loose connection. I tried different ones until I found one with a bit tighter fit and it seems to stay put and work fine. Since then however, I've gone with the Quad Lock wireless charger set up. Also, that power port is only fused at 3A so it's remarkably easy to blow the fuse. A phone or other small electronic device won't draw enough amps but the action of plugging stuff in and out sometimes seems to blow it (scratch head).

 

[Jlq1969]

Yep, the vibrations make the charger tend to go up and lose connection. Wrap some electrical insulating tape around the charger so that it presses in and stays there...I solved it like this

 

[gv550]

Your power port should not be able to supply an air compressor, check that it has the correct fuse installed.

 

[Cycledude]

Apple has some crazy controls about charging my iPhone 7, I have plugged it in at 10pm and it says charging will be complete by 7 am, well that’s fine if I want to unplug it at 7am but if I get up to go somewhere at 5am and the phone is only 80% charged I don’t like it at all, why not just charge the thing 100% anytime I plug it in ? Apple charger and apple cord is all I have ever used on my iPhone .

 

[WJBertrand]

Apple has some crazy controls about charging my iPhone 7, I have plugged it in at 10pm and it says charging will be complete by 7 am, well that’s fine if I want to unplug it at 7am but if I get up to go somewhere at 5am and the phone is only 80% charged I don’t like it at all, why not just charge the thing 100% anytime I plug it in ? Apple charger and apple cord is all I have ever used on my iPhone .

Go into the battery menu and turn off the optimized charging. It will then charge right up to 100% every time.

Settings > battery > battery health.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Longdog Cymru]

Get an Android phone

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Your power port should not be able to supply an air compressor, check that it has the correct fuse installed.

Good point, very lightly fused normally. Not able to run a mine compressor.

 

[Madhatter]

my mini compressor blows the fuse immediately on turning it on.... use a connection from the battery for that ..... no issues charging my phone on trips by the power plug , but the bike has to be running . not many places in big bend for a signal anyway.

 

[Travex]

All good points. In my case, I and many others chose to eliminate that potential failure by replacing the outlet with a dedicated USB charger. These can be had for very few $ on ebay or amazon and slip right into that hole nicely. Mine also has a voltmeter and is directly wired to a fuzeblock.

 

[Cycledude]

Go into the battery menu and turn off the optimized charging. It will then charge right up to 100% every time.

Settings > battery > battery health.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Well thanks for the tip ! I just did exactly what you suggested !

 

[WJBertrand]

my mini compressor blows the fuse immediately on turning it on.... use a connection from the battery for that ..... no issues charging my phone on trips by the power plug , but the bike has to be running . not many places in big bend for a signal anyway.

I found out that the outlet is hot with the key in the park (P) position too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Gerard]

I installed this panel with the top plug positioned in the original plug hole and wired it to the original fuse/connection.
Never hat an issue with it . The toggle switch at the bottom disables the ABS.

 

[rodeoclone]

I had the same issues as @robp and found my OEM power port had a corroded/blackened power point that occurred with all the jiggling of the USB “tip” making/not making good contact. Once I sanded the contact point it corrected the problem. But I do plan on going the USB port direction in the future.

 

[RCinNC]

One cross country trip using the OEM outlet to power a Garmin GPS was enough to convince me that a better outlet was needed. I originally installed a set of those ones you can get at auto parts stores that have the spring loaded covers (they're made to be installed in open truck beds) in a couple of homemade aluminum brackets bolted to the handlebar clamps. They look like this:

...but I hated the spring loaded covers. When using a USB adapter in them, the spring loaded lid pushed so hard on the USB cable that I figured it would eventually damage it. I then got a couple of those 12 volt marine outlets on Amazon and installed them:

I like these ones a lot better, and I think they provide better contact with the accessories inserted into them than did the older ones. These are still on the bike, and I've used a USB adapter in them for a couple years now with no issues.

I still don't like these style outlets though. They're still susceptible to vibrations on the bike dislodging whatever's plugged into them, and they aren't shielded from rain when you have something plugged into them, especially a two position USB adapter. One of the ports on my adapter is actually rusty inside. I keep the 12 volt cigarette lighter style outlets mainly because they're hooked up with 14 gauge wire and fused to be able to handle the load from an air compressor. One of them is always hot, so even if the bike won't start, I can still plug in my phone and make a call (I always keep a USB adapter on the bike). I think that one of those Powerlet style outlets and connection system would be best for this kind of application, but they'e pretty expensive.

For the best, most reliable power connection for my phone or GPS, I installed a couple dedicated USB outlets with waterproof covers (also from Amazon, sold under the "Motopower" name) on a homemade shelf above the instrument pod, where they'd have some protection from the elements. They look like this:

When the phone and GPS mounts are on the accessory rail, they get protection from the elements too. I made an attachment system out of bits of plastic and aluminum angle so the USB cables could be screwed into these outlets, so they can't vibrate loose. My theory is that the screw in mounts also cut down on vibration between the USB connector and the port itself. The idea came from the old serial port screw in connectors on old computers. The connectors look like this:

I also installed a third USB outlet on the right side grab rail by the pillion seat, so my passenger can charge up her phone or plug in her comm unit while we're riding. It looks like this:

There's also a 12 volt two pin connector on the bike, mounted on the right side frame rail under the fuel tank, hardwired (and fused) to the battery so I can hook up a Battery Tender Jr.

 

[fac191]

Get an Android phone

Apple Products LOL

 

[Squibb]

The Aux DC jack should be fused at 3.0 amps & the wiring is pretty lightweight, so I'm surprised it could cope with a compressor. Maybe it's been fused to a higher rating & has been quietly frying the wiring or, as others have mentioned, arcing at the positive terminal.