Picked up my S10 Saturday...what things should I make sure to check/do to it?

[cavenger]

The bike has close to 11k miles on it. The dealer supposedly changed the fluids, but honestly, I don't really trust them. I know I need the following:

1. New Front Tire - I have never replaced tires before on a bike so this will be interesting.
2. Lube the shift lever.
3. Battery test - The bike is a little slow to start but hasn't failed to start yet.
4. Oil Change
5. I need a spare key.
6. I will be replacing the shield with a madstad as soon as I receive my order.
7. I should have my top case on board as soon as I get my mount for this bike.
8. I really need engine guards.

What else?

 

[BadNews]

Check for loose spokes.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Check your pulse, take a few breaths, then just smile. You've got a Tenere that many would argue has barely been broken in yet. 11K miles is not much for a Tenere.

Your list seems pretty good. Depending on year, it may or may not be worth checking the steering head bolt. I recall both my '12s were a little loose and caught that around the 10K mark. But overall the Tenere is basically bulletproof.

Congrats on the new bike.

 

[Pine]

Skid plate, unless you already have one.
Have fun ::012::

 

[Sierra1]

All I did was crash bars & skid plate. Oh yeah, and some bags.

 

[Harry Dresden PI]

Check all fluids and tire pressures.
Ride for 1000 miles then repeat

 

[2daMax]

1. Lube the brake pedal too while you are lubing the shifter. You may want to slightly adjust to lower down the brake pedal; the S10 seems to have the pedal at level with the pegs, at least mine was.
2. Drive shaft oil - for peace of mind, only takes 200ml of API GL5 gear oil, 80W90. I went fully synthetic Redline. Get a QUALITY long handle Allen key. That filler cap is TIGHT! (Loosen the Filler cap first before the Drain plug cause, if you fail to loosen the Filler Cap due to a bad tool, you can still ride the bike and find a better tool)
3. Bike comes with its own side crash plastic frames for that opps moment, or pavement slide. I am on TT bars which does deform on a drop but does not cause damage to any parts of the bike. The stock plastic crash frames are left on the bike, not removed with the TT bars.
4. Starting tends to take longer for this engine, simply because the starter motor is undersized and doesn't spin up as quick. If you want to change the battery, go for the YTZ14S instead of the stock YTZ12S. Same exact size but with more CCA and capacity. Reports says that the 14S starts better.
5. Coolant change if it is approaching 2 years. Choose silicate free coolants cause it is a Japanese radiator system. Silicates destroys the water pump on the long run. (Any Japanese brand coolant will be silicate free. I am using Toyota Red coolant).

 

[Xclimation]

Congrats on the new bike! ::018::

 

[RhodeTrip]

Get a torque wrench and check spokes (6nm)
Jim

 

[Dirt_Dad]

One thing worth checking is the shift lever. Good idea to take it off and lube around the shaft. Many of us initially thought we had transmission problems that turned out to be a sluggish lever. I do grease mine about ever 10K.

 

[HeliMark]

2. Drive shaft oil - for peace of mind, only takes 200ml of API GL5 gear oil, 80W90. I went fully synthetic Redline. Get a QUALITY long handle Allen key. That filler cap is TIGHT! (Loosen the Filler cap first before the Drain plug cause, if you fail to loosen the Filler Cap due to a bad tool, you can still ride the bike and find a better tool)

+1

DAMHIK.....

It is so easy and cheap to change, I do it every oil change.

Mark

 

[limey]

Check for the rubber plug on the swing arm. It's on the right hand side .