Oil Change

[colorider]

I've been using these for years. Eliminates the hassle of funnels in tight spaces, has a built in valve to control flow rate and comes with an adapter for different sized bottles. Another advantage is that you can squeeze the bottle to force the oil out-MUCH faster than using a funnel. Most auto parts stores carry them (Autozone, etc).

http://www.hopkinsmfg.com/10106.html

I used one almost identical to the BLUE one pictured above (mine is yellow) and it worked pretty good. I've seen the type in your link but never tried one - but may invest in one now as there have been times that no matter what funnel I try - it just does not quite work the way I hope (like on my Honda Pilot).

Thanks!

 

[rem]

I've got one of each type and a couple others. A man can't have too many funnels. Kind of like money and firewood. The disadvantage of the long, skinny neck plastic one (Hopkins?) is that you have to hold it the whole time. It doesn't like to be left alone. R

 

[Scoobynut]

Someone asked about a funnel somewhere. This is what I did. Worked great.

I can't believe you guys haven't heard of the lawn-chair funnel support method. Works great, doesn't require zip-ties or panel removal. Note my use of the faster, black funnel. >

 

[rem]

Note my use of the faster, black funnel.

MY MAN .......... !!! R

 

[tomatocity]

I can't believe you guys haven't heard of the lawn-chair funnel support method. Works great, doesn't require zip-ties or panel removal. Note my use of the faster, black funnel. >

Oh the 'lawn chair funnel support', now I remember. Hmmm the fast 'blue' 'lawn chair funnel support. ::26::

 

[colorider]

Oh the 'lawn chair funnel support', now I remember. Hmmm the fast 'blue' 'lawn chair funnel support. ::26::

Yep - indeed!!!!

::003::

 

[Scoobynut]

As chairman and founder of the Lawn Chair Funnel Support Method Society of North America, I should probably disclose that our Method should NOT be used when the oil bottles are full; the Method is most useful for draining the remaining oil from the bottle while you fetch another beer or what-have-you. Our research indicates that the Lawn Chairs, especially the blue ones, can become unstable when asked to do too much, such as balancing a full quart of oil on their backsides, uh, backrests. So please, exercise some extra caution while using The Method with blue lawn chairs.

Oh, and BTW, the LCFSMS N.A. is having a membership drive this month. We are hoping to double our membership to two.

 

[rem]

especially the blue ones, can become unstable when asked to do too much, such as balancing a full quart of oil on their backsides,/quote]


I don't think the blue ones would be capable of balancing anyone's backside. R

 

[Bowana]

I just tried to get my bike booked in for the 1,000 km checkup and was told I can't get it in until Sept 16th. lol I don't think so. Time to find another shop or do it myself this weekend.

 

[MotorcopBBQ]

Correct me if I am wrong. But, Yamaha doesn't semi-synthetic right out of the factory and does anyone know that Yamaha put in our bikes before they were sent; 10w-40, 20w-40, etc? Any other recomendation for semi-synthetic other than Yamaha. Once I hit 1000 its all full-synthetic.

 

[markjenn]

Correct me if I am wrong. But, Yamaha doesn't semi-synthetic right out of the factory and does anyone know that Yamaha put in our bikes before they were sent; 10w-40, 20w-40, etc? Any other recomendation for semi-synthetic other than Yamaha. Once I hit 1000 its all full-synthetic.

Other than rumors, I've never seen any ID of exactly what the factory fill is on any Yamaha bike. Or any other vehicle mfgs for that matter unless is part of some marketing campaign (like Mobil One and Porsche). A few have done oil analysis of factory fills in various vehicles and these results don't show anything special, just off-the-shelf oil, probably conventional. If I had to bet, I'd guess we have a run-of-the-mill 10W-40 non-synthetic in our new S10s.

The whole question of when you can use synthetic seems to be one of those hot potatoes that is endlessly debated, but no one has any hard info. I wouldn't have any issue putting synthetic in anytime after oil consumption has stabilized, which is basically 10 miles since new on most Japanese bikes.

- Mark

 

[tomatocity]

Right side of the motorcycle. Below (not under) the seat is information about the Super Tenere. It shows 20W40 for the oil. HAs a bunch of other information that is useful.

 

[bonzer2u]

Right side of the motorcycle. Below (not under) the seat is information about the Super Tenere. It shows 20W40 for the oil. HAs a bunch of other information that is useful.

+1 here as well...20/40

PS. Check out the lower right hand corner 'bold letters' of page 7-14 in your owners manual...

The way I read it, It almost implies to not use a synthetic or blend.......... "oils of a higher quality than specified"

What the hell is that supposed to mean???

 

[whisperquiet]

Like most monotonous and useless oil threads that exist on every motorcycle and car enthusiast board............it has been my experience that the only cars/motorcycles that suffer serious oil related failures are those that do not have an adequate amount of oil in the sump. That said, I'm using Castrol Actevo 10w40 semi-synthetic motorcycle spec lubricant......................................I won't even own this bike if/when it has an oil related failure. Change the oil and filter on a regular basis and RIDE.

YMMV

 

[3putt]

The euro service manual says 6000 mile oil change, the owners manual says 4000 mile service. Hmmmmm.

I changed just the oil using Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 synthetic today at 4075 miles. Took 3.1 L. 5 bolts to drop the H&B skidplate and anti seize on bolts before replacement.

I last changed oil/filter at 600 miles. I bet I am the only one with 2 neodymium (rare earth 7/16"x1/8") magnets on my oil filter!

 

[WRW9751]

Just changed my oil at 640 miles, dealer is a ways away. Didn't want to wait. I have a factory option skidpan (OEM), the drains are accessible as well as the filter. Didn't need to remove skip pan to exchange the filter. (Nice) I have been concerned about using Moble 1 at this early stage. Used Castrol 20/40, just want to be sure rings are seated good. I also loaded Syntec 75/90 synthetic in the rear end. I will change to Moble 1, 2500/3000 maybe sooner depending on how it looks down the road.

 

[EricV]

The euro service manual says 6000 mile oil change, the owners manual says 4000 mile service. Hmmmmm.

I changed just the oil using Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 synthetic today at 4075 miles. Took 3.1 L.

You're a little short on oil there mate. Might want to take a ride and top that off. Not critical, as when there is oil in the sump, the pump will move it to the engine, eh?

On the 4000 Vs 6000 debacle, it helps if you understand that aside from the US, the rest of the world is Metric, (for the most part), and 6200 miles is 10,000 kilometers.... Easy to remember to change the oil every 10k, it is. In the US we have been brainwashed to think we need to change the oil "every 3 months or 3000 miles", which is bull. For simplicity, I change mine every 5k on the Yamahas. I haven't had any oil related failures, but that's just me. The oil was looking far too clean at 4k on the FJR when it was younger and I just felt like I was wasting money by changing it then. At 5k it at least had the decency to look a little dirty. Now it's plenty dirty by then! Tad more combustion byproducts in the oil at 162k!!

 

[rem]

Actually, and I'm going on memory here, the oil volume required when NOT replacing the filter is exactly 3.1 litres. I remember only because I was surprised that the bike didn't require more oil.


If I am wrong about this, please take appropriate steps to correct me. The memory fades as the years progress. Neither my bike nor my owner's manual are here with me.


You make a good point regarding kms and miles. Be careful with that. I doubt the European manual would even give miles, but it might. 6000 miles would equate to a little under 10,000 kms, as you stated. It's easy to mix them up. Just remember that kms will always be the higher number when comparing to miles, as it is the smaller unit of measure. So it will always take more of them to equal the same distance in miles. I know you've all heard this before, but to go from kms to miles, multiply by 0.6. That will give you a smaller number, which is the correct way to go .... x kms = x - (less) miles. 1000 kms = 600 miles. Or close enough. To go from miles to kms, you need to get a larger number for your answer, so multiply by 1.6. 1000 miles = 1,600 kms. Hope this helps. R

 

[switchback]

Actually, and I'm going on memory here, the oil volume required when NOT replacing the filter is exactly 3.1 litres. I remember only because I was surprised that the bike didn't require more oil.

You are on the money Rem, 3.1 l without filter and 3.4 with. Did my 600 mile service on Friday with 525 miles (I know I need to ride more but the kids are hard to catch) and I have to say that it was so simple and easy I feel bad for those who... well you know what the service dept. did to them. 3.4 liters of Castrol 10-40, a filter, a bit of Mobil-1 gear lube, and a wee bit of time looking over the bike and pulling on the front wheel. Most time consuming thing was finding the torque values. Good for a couple of thousand when I will switch to synthetic.

 

[rem]

Pretty much what I do. I do an early oil change ... oil only .. with Castrol petroleum based motorcycle oil and then switch to either Amsoil or Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oil on the next one. I dunno. I guess there's 20 different ways to do it, but you have to do what you're comfortable with, I guess. Seems to work for me .... and my bikes.


It's not often I REMember stuff like that .... if I can only remember how to find my way home now. R