I like these panniers a lot (stock) but the locks suck! I mean no matter the lube they always have so much resistance.. And finding the center to remove the key takes a bit… I found that loosening the screws that hold the lock unit to the case just a tad makes them a bit smoother.
OEM Top Case Warning!!
- Thread starter behindbars
- Start date
Very interesting to read all the fellow member's comments.
I want to share a recent concern with my OEM top case. After a paved road ride of about 50 miles I noticed that the latch lever that secures my top box to its original base got "released". Lucky enough I did not lose the box since this lever requires some pull in order to get fully released.
Has any one else experience this issue with this hardware and if so, does any one have an idea on how to fix it? Regards to all!
I want to share a recent concern with my OEM top case. After a paved road ride of about 50 miles I noticed that the latch lever that secures my top box to its original base got "released". Lucky enough I did not lose the box since this lever requires some pull in order to get fully released.
Has any one else experience this issue with this hardware and if so, does any one have an idea on how to fix it? Regards to all!
4ReelMoto
New Member
Another point with the OEM top case from my experience. I personally think that the end user will receive the box with the internal egg shaped cam roller in either the correct position, or an incorrect position right from the factory (this is why the tension on the key is way too stiff with the lock security set screws turned in to recommended torque), or (as in my first go around with it), you'll receive a returned case from another frustrated customer without it first being inspected and reconditioned, and it doesn't work at all.
I also found out that a locksmith cannot do much with it, nor put in a different hook and lock cylinder on it due to the fact that the hole design for the lock is positioned too low for standard and aftermarket hook lengths.
What I ended up doing, is taking it apart, then positioning the egg shaped cam roller sideways with lock mounting plate fully engaged with the notched grooves on the roller, then carefully reinstalling it to case. Once this is done, have someone hold the bottom latch in for securing box to bike fully closed while you turn the lock cylinder mounting plate, using needle nose vise-grip pliers on indent tab (keeping pressure on mounting plate), until it aligns with the indent mark, and the lug holes line up with lock cylinder. What this does, is it correctly positions the egg shaped cam roller so that it is pointing downward against the arm which secures it to the bike.
Now you can put blue lock tight threadlock on the two screws that hold the lock cylinder and mounting plate together, and torque to what is specified.
I know this seems lengthy in description, but it is what I have learned about a very common problem with these top cases, and that's even if they work at all right out-of-the-box.
Since doing this, I have had no troubles with turning key, and it works way better than how I received it new from the factory.
Also, the Yamaha dealer representative suggested to ad graphite to the lock cylinder... Do Not do this if you live in an area that has humidity!
I ordered the OEM top case when I purchased the Super Tenere though the Yamaha year end incentives, which allowed up to $1200 of genuine Yamaha accessories.
Unfortunately, from what I've experienced, their hard cases are a minus to what is an excellent bike.
I also found out that a locksmith cannot do much with it, nor put in a different hook and lock cylinder on it due to the fact that the hole design for the lock is positioned too low for standard and aftermarket hook lengths.
What I ended up doing, is taking it apart, then positioning the egg shaped cam roller sideways with lock mounting plate fully engaged with the notched grooves on the roller, then carefully reinstalling it to case. Once this is done, have someone hold the bottom latch in for securing box to bike fully closed while you turn the lock cylinder mounting plate, using needle nose vise-grip pliers on indent tab (keeping pressure on mounting plate), until it aligns with the indent mark, and the lug holes line up with lock cylinder. What this does, is it correctly positions the egg shaped cam roller so that it is pointing downward against the arm which secures it to the bike.
Now you can put blue lock tight threadlock on the two screws that hold the lock cylinder and mounting plate together, and torque to what is specified.
I know this seems lengthy in description, but it is what I have learned about a very common problem with these top cases, and that's even if they work at all right out-of-the-box.
Since doing this, I have had no troubles with turning key, and it works way better than how I received it new from the factory.
Also, the Yamaha dealer representative suggested to ad graphite to the lock cylinder... Do Not do this if you live in an area that has humidity!
I ordered the OEM top case when I purchased the Super Tenere though the Yamaha year end incentives, which allowed up to $1200 of genuine Yamaha accessories.
Unfortunately, from what I've experienced, their hard cases are a minus to what is an excellent bike.
Rockhammer
New Member
It is so unfortunate that Yamaha allowed such a crappy locking mechanism to be put on what are otherwise decent boxes. I have absolutely no faith in that poorly designed system, and I have no doubt that if left as is, it will fail on me when I'm in the middle of nowhere. To that end, I'm scrapping the stock latch and am looking to re-engineer it with a proper external latch like what Jesse or Touratech use.
Also, why would they design it so that you have to lock / unlock it each time you open it?? The lock (and need to use your key) should be separate from the latch mechanism for easy access.
For anyone considering the OEM panniers, don't bother. For not much more you can get a set of aftermarket ones that are far superior.
Also, why would they design it so that you have to lock / unlock it each time you open it?? The lock (and need to use your key) should be separate from the latch mechanism for easy access.
For anyone considering the OEM panniers, don't bother. For not much more you can get a set of aftermarket ones that are far superior.
4ReelMoto
New Member
Agreed. After all the frustration I went through, my best point to alleviate it was to try to make the best of what I had. I'm glad that I did not technically pay the almost $400/US for it... The soft plastic internal lock mechanisms, and cheap springs, definitely causes issues right away, which apparently will not last over time ::007::Rockhammer said:
carrot
Member
i have had the oem boxes day one when i got the bike in 2012 i think the boxes are great once i put locktight on the screws and a little oil now and then.
BarkSlayer
New Member
I had considered the Yamaha cases...until I saw a set in person. IMO, the all plastic construction just wasn't on par quality-wise with the rest of the bike. In the end, I spent a bit more on Touratech bags, but the awesomeness alone was worth every dime. Fully functional, and bomb proof durability. ::008::
TheHelios
Taco Enthusiast
I had to rebuild the lock mechanism on the Top Case since the damned screws for the key tumbler fell out. The 2 hours to figure out WTF was going on with the lock and putting it together was terrible.
Bryce
Ya, Whatever!
Luckily, I was able to get my panniers open this afternoon, however, I could not get the right side to lock. I popped the rubber cover of the inside of the lock and 1 of the screws fell out. I guess I'll loc-tite them all tomorrow.