This is a heads up for anyone using the OEM top case.
I want to preface this by stating that I like the looks of this case over most of the others out there and also like the fact that it was designed specifically for the S10 and integrates with the stock mounting rack.
First off, I received mine a couple of weeks ago and finally got some time last night to install the lock cylinder. What should have been a 15 minute job turned into a 2 hour ordeal because of the POS assembly instructions. In short, if you install the lock cylinder backing plate as shown in the drawing, you will NOT be able to turn the lock (and you risk bending the ignition key as well). I finally got frustrated and disassembled the whole f'ing thing to see how the latch worked.
Some random observations:
With the exception of the lock cylinder and a springs, the latch mechanism is 100% plastic. A couple of the critical latching components seem stout enough for general use but time will tell if they hold up over the long haul.
The mechanism did not have any assembly lube at some critical rubbing points. I put a light coat of general purpose grease on these areas. The mechanism is fairly well sealed so I wasn't concerned about the grease attracting dirt and dust.
If you have to take the thing apart, do so at your own risk and watch out for flying springs. Take your time and note where the springs go.
Be patient putting everything back together-if you try to rush it, it will simply be an exercise in frustration. Re-install the small screw that holds the latch hook back and only remove it when everything is back in place.
The key to getting everything to work right is to properly position the lock cylinder backing plate. It must be installed so that the splines mate correctly with the grooves in the plastic cam. This is NOT at the 0 degree (vertical) position as shown in the instructions. If you try to position it that way it will NEVER work and you risk damaging the plastic cam if you force it. Install the backing plate and rotate it clockwise approx. 30 degrees until you feel it snap into place. You can then push in the latching handle at the bottom of the case and rotate the backing plate counterclockwise to vertical until the backing plate tab mates with the plastic detent.
Ok, that all sounds great.....so what's the warning? If you leave a key in the lock and the box is subjected to enough shock/vibration, it WILL come unlatched from the bike and go bouncing down the road behind you!! This is because the mechanism is spring loaded and with a key in the lock, the only thing keeping the lock cylinder from rotating and unlatching is a weak plastic detent.
Now that I understand how the latch works, here are my recommendations:
Don't use the ignition key for the top case. Go to a locksmith and get a duplicate shorter key made and use that key exclusively. At the very least, have a spare ignition key with you or hidden on the bike somewhere. If the latch binds or breaks, the key WILL get stuck and you will bend/break it trying to remove it. Without an extra ignition key, you'll be stuck.
Check the operation of the latching mechanism often especially when riding off road. Make sure the bottom release lever is FULLY locked and in place. Grab the side handles and pull up on the case just to be sure.
IMHO, the latching mechanism is adequate as long as it's functioning properly. Again, NEVER leave a key in the lock and ride off!! Keep in mind the latch mechanism IS plastic and not really repairable if something breaks. If in doubt, scrap the whole thing and use it as a footrest, beer cooler or family heirloom. As I said, I really WANT to like this box....time will tell how well it holds up!
Hope this helps-
Steve
I want to preface this by stating that I like the looks of this case over most of the others out there and also like the fact that it was designed specifically for the S10 and integrates with the stock mounting rack.
First off, I received mine a couple of weeks ago and finally got some time last night to install the lock cylinder. What should have been a 15 minute job turned into a 2 hour ordeal because of the POS assembly instructions. In short, if you install the lock cylinder backing plate as shown in the drawing, you will NOT be able to turn the lock (and you risk bending the ignition key as well). I finally got frustrated and disassembled the whole f'ing thing to see how the latch worked.
Some random observations:
With the exception of the lock cylinder and a springs, the latch mechanism is 100% plastic. A couple of the critical latching components seem stout enough for general use but time will tell if they hold up over the long haul.
The mechanism did not have any assembly lube at some critical rubbing points. I put a light coat of general purpose grease on these areas. The mechanism is fairly well sealed so I wasn't concerned about the grease attracting dirt and dust.
If you have to take the thing apart, do so at your own risk and watch out for flying springs. Take your time and note where the springs go.
Be patient putting everything back together-if you try to rush it, it will simply be an exercise in frustration. Re-install the small screw that holds the latch hook back and only remove it when everything is back in place.
The key to getting everything to work right is to properly position the lock cylinder backing plate. It must be installed so that the splines mate correctly with the grooves in the plastic cam. This is NOT at the 0 degree (vertical) position as shown in the instructions. If you try to position it that way it will NEVER work and you risk damaging the plastic cam if you force it. Install the backing plate and rotate it clockwise approx. 30 degrees until you feel it snap into place. You can then push in the latching handle at the bottom of the case and rotate the backing plate counterclockwise to vertical until the backing plate tab mates with the plastic detent.
Ok, that all sounds great.....so what's the warning? If you leave a key in the lock and the box is subjected to enough shock/vibration, it WILL come unlatched from the bike and go bouncing down the road behind you!! This is because the mechanism is spring loaded and with a key in the lock, the only thing keeping the lock cylinder from rotating and unlatching is a weak plastic detent.
Now that I understand how the latch works, here are my recommendations:
Don't use the ignition key for the top case. Go to a locksmith and get a duplicate shorter key made and use that key exclusively. At the very least, have a spare ignition key with you or hidden on the bike somewhere. If the latch binds or breaks, the key WILL get stuck and you will bend/break it trying to remove it. Without an extra ignition key, you'll be stuck.
Check the operation of the latching mechanism often especially when riding off road. Make sure the bottom release lever is FULLY locked and in place. Grab the side handles and pull up on the case just to be sure.
IMHO, the latching mechanism is adequate as long as it's functioning properly. Again, NEVER leave a key in the lock and ride off!! Keep in mind the latch mechanism IS plastic and not really repairable if something breaks. If in doubt, scrap the whole thing and use it as a footrest, beer cooler or family heirloom. As I said, I really WANT to like this box....time will tell how well it holds up!
Hope this helps-
Steve
