Noisy shaft on 2010 model

Matt51F1

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I’m guessing that there’s probably a post here about this but there’s visitors at the house & my missus cracks up if I look at my phone for too long.

I went to ride to work the other day after doing an oil change & installing the Brisk plugs & I got about 6km before the engine light came on. It took me about 45 minutes to get home as I figure there is a limp home mode where the engine light comes on if I pulled in the clutch lever- so first gear it was.

I was thinking that it was the plugs but I pulled the tank & air box off to check everything & went through diagnostics & all seems OK.

So I started it while in the centre stand & there is a horrendous knock from the front CV or whatever joint it is (not pulled it apart yet).

Has anyone else experienced this & if there’s a post on it already, I’d sure like to know about it.

Thanks.

(Back to reading the workshop manual…)
 

holligl

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Not meant to run on the centerstand. The angles are not right. It is normal to be noisy if you run it that way. As long as it doesn't make noise rolling on the ground the drive train should be fine.

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Matt51F1

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Thanks for the replies.
As I posted it, a mate said the same thing you blokes did & it suddenly made sense.
I’m going to change the plugs back to the standard copper as that’s really the only thing that’s changed.
 

WJBertrand

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I’m guessing that there’s probably a post here about this but there’s visitors at the house & my missus cracks up if I look at my phone for too long.

I went to ride to work the other day after doing an oil change & installing the Brisk plugs & I got about 6km before the engine light came on. It took me about 45 minutes to get home as I figure there is a limp home mode where the engine light comes on if I pulled in the clutch lever- so first gear it was.

I was thinking that it was the plugs but I pulled the tank & air box off to check everything & went through diagnostics & all seems OK.

So I started it while in the centre stand & there is a horrendous knock from the front CV or whatever joint it is (not pulled it apart yet).

Has anyone else experienced this & if there’s a post on it already, I’d sure like to know about it.

Thanks.

(Back to reading the workshop manual…)
Was the transmission in gear? If so that would explain the noise. The uneven firing of the 270° crank will rattle all the lash clearances back and forth with the rear wheel unloaded.


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Matt51F1

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Was the transmission in gear? If so that would explain the noise. The uneven firing of the 270° crank will rattle all the lash clearances back and forth with the rear wheel unloaded.


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Yes. It appears that I’ve made the noob mistake of running it through the gears while up on the centre stand
 

Sierra1

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. . . . I went to ride to work the other day after doing an oil change & installing the Brisk plugs & I got about 6km before the engine light came on. . . .
Maybe the multi-spark of the plug was too much for the ECU to process? 'Cuz the check engine light and shaft noise are completely separate matters.
 

Matt51F1

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Maybe the multi-spark of the plug was too much for the ECU to process? 'Cuz the check engine light and shaft noise are completely separate matters.
Yes, I figure they would be

I put the old plugs back in & it ran perfectly so I guess your summation of the ECU not liking it is quite feasible. I’ve ordered some iridiums to go in there but the Brisk are going on the shelf.

Also upgraded the horn to a 139dB model by Stebel & it’s great for blasting at people who think mirror & indicator use is optional. What makes this funny is that there are clowns out there selling horns that they claim to be 500dB or more.

Even Krakatoa, when it erupted in the 19th century & heard thousands of miles away, was nowhere near that
 

Sierra1

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. . . . I put the old plugs back in & it ran perfectly so I guess your summation of the ECU not liking it is quite feasible. . . .
So, I wonder if those plugs are designed for non-computerized vehicles. Or is our ECU that finicky?
 

WJBertrand

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It seems these days engines are so optimally tuned to the OEM plugs that putting anything else in, even if it’s just a direct replacement but a different brand, causes issues.

Not a fan of Brisk or any of the other “gimmick” plugs out there. Plenty of misfire and other issues reported on the car forums for my car (5.0L Mustang GT) using Brisk plugs. All seemingly solved when the OEM plugs are refitted.


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Sierra1

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I had an '87 Rx-7. The OE plugs looked very similar to the Brisk plugs. It was EFI, but don't know if the ECU controlled the spark.
 

Matt51F1

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It seems these days engines are so optimally tuned to the OEM plugs that putting anything else in, even if it’s just a direct replacement but a different brand, causes issues.

Not a fan of Brisk or any of the other “gimmick” plugs out there. Plenty of misfire and other issues reported on the car forums for my car (5.0L Mustang GT) using Brisk plugs. All seemingly solved when the OEM plugs are refitted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Which model mustang do you have?
Mine is an 83 T-top.
I bought it for the right price with the intention of selling to get an older one- & fell for it. Never selling now.
 

WJBertrand

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Which model mustang do you have?
Mine is an 83 T-top.
I bought it for the right price with the intention of selling to get an older one- & fell for it. Never selling now.
Nice! I’ve got a 2013 GT premium with the Brembo brakes and track pack. I bought it new in November 2013. My favorite car ever.


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