Need Help Sourcing Electrical Wire

Bigguy136

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Hi,
I'm going thru my Tenere this winter and I want to run power to my travel trunk so if I need to charge anything, there will be power and also a second line for my heated gear. I want to run a 16 gage parallel bonded wire but there are so many different specs on wire that I'm not sure what to order. Can any smartologist shed some light on what will work best?

Thanks, BG
 

Checkswrecks

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That is a great link for general electric supplies.


The insulation for auto and motorcycle wiring has really poor rub/chafe resistance. If you want a better wire which has thinner insulation that is tough as rocks, try to go with Tefzel for most applications. You can buy it by the foot from any of the companies supplying the homebuilt airplane crowd.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/unshieldlwire.php
 

Bigguy136

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Thanks!!

I was on McMaster carr website and they had specs for the wire shielding but I'm assuming that was more for house type wiring (it was stranded wire). Wire is on order.
Now to find a panel mount SAE connector.... Thinking Aerostitch for that.

Thanks again. BG
 

EricV

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Another option for a relatively easy to source and reasonable cost is trailer wire. Most auto parts stores like NAPA, etc will sell trailer wire in various bonded strands. I have seen two wire to 7 wire locally. It's usually a bit thicker insulation than some other applications due to the application. Securing it and creating strain relief will go a long way to avoid chafing and other issues.

Have fun with the winter project! ::008::
 

dietDrThunder

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I've got power to my trunk, and it's very easy to route it such that there is no concern for how tough the insulation is. My recommendation after more years of electro-farkling htan most (I built and wired my own remote alert system for my Uniden RD9 radar detector on my VF1000R in 1987), and years as a car stereo guy, is to use 14GA speaker wire. It's very flexible, has very thick insulation, is very easy to solder, and is cheap. Look on ebay for something like this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-feet-14-Gauge-Red-Black-Stranded-2-Conductor-Speaker-Wire-Car-Home-Audio-/160888970256?hash=item2575badc10:g:NTYAAOSwZVhWTN7c

You can get a wide variety of gauges as well, depending on your application. I have a roll of 12ga, 14ga and 18ga on my bench.
 

Checkswrecks

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Once you've used Tefzel, you'll understand why the stuff is so good. And for how little we use on the bikes, using cheap wire just doesn't make sense.
 
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RonH

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Yes, worth the cost difference to use Tefzel or Teflon wire. No more melting the insulation while soldering, no more cracked insulation from vibration and bending. For any given guage the insulation is thinner making for a cleaner installation. All the benefits well worth using the better wire.
 

dietDrThunder

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Tefzel is great wire, but it's hard to find in anything larger than 16ga if you need it (like for the main feed to a fusebox for example). Also, none of the negatives mentioned above apply to good speaker wire (melting insulation from soldering, cracking due to bending, vibration, or bending, etc.). That said, Tefzel is definitely a little thinner, so if this is a factor for you, look into it for sure. OTOH it's also less pliable, so it doesn't route as easily as speaker wire.

As far as pricing, IMO it matters. Yes, we use relatively short runs, but if you're looking to supply your work bench for future projects, you might want a few rolls of wire so that you can color code your wiring, different gauges for different uses, etc. For example, I use 12ga red/black for the main power to my front and trunk fuse panels, and blue/black 16ga for all of the accessories that run off those boxes that aren't lights. For all lighting I use red/black 16ga. In this way I can easily distinguish which wires go to what when troubleshooting or modifying my setup. If I wanted to buy 100' rolls of each of those in Tefzel I'd be into it for six or seven hundred dollars. I've got (5) 100' rolls of the aforementioned gauges of speaker wire on my bench and I think I'm into all of it for about $130 iirc.

Anyway, like I said the Tefzel stuff is solid for sure, but like most things, there isn't a "right" answer, as each choice has its drawbacks. For me, the only drawback of speaker wire is that it's thicker than others because of thick insulation, but this makes it durable and pliable, so it's a trade-off.
 

terrysig

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I'm a little late to this but one of the great resources I've found when wiring or repairing wiring on my bikes is http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html.

I've used Joe for a long time on many bike projects. And while he doesn't specifically list wire on his site I've gotten what I needed from him.

Also you can talk to him. He's probably done what you are doing.

I have no relationship to him or his business just a very satisfied customer and appreciate what he does.
 

Checkswrecks

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The problem with "speaker wire" is that there are so many types of speaker wire that you could end up with almost anything. While somebody like you probably knows good from bad, most people have no clue. The temp ratings are anywhere from 140F (60C) up. The core can be aluminum or copper, and the conductors can be stranded or solid core.


Whatever wire is picked, absolutely avoid aluminum wiring and avoid solid core. Try to find an insulation with a temp rating over 200F; the better ones are 250C and up.
 

dietDrThunder

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Checkswrecks said:
The problem with "speaker wire" is that there are so many types of speaker wire that you could end up with almost anything. While somebody like you probably knows good from bad, most people have no clue. The temp ratings are anywhere from 140F (60C) up. The core can be aluminum or copper, and the conductors can be stranded or solid core.


Whatever wire is picked, absolutely avoid aluminum wiring and avoid solid core. Try to find an insulation with a temp rating over 200F; the better ones are 250C and up.
Good advice, but this isn't a real problem that is likely to be encountered in reality. In 30+ years, I've never one time ever seen solid core or aluminum wire packaged as car audio speaker wire. But, that doesn't mean that it hasn't ever happened to someone, at some point. So yes for sure, don't buy it if you see wire that is either or both of those things.

This reminds me of another point I meant to bring up. If you aren't proficient at soldering, do some learning and get good at it. When you solder wires together, you should be able to see the strands of wire within the solder in at least part of the joint, with no 'clumps' or 'blobs' of solder in evidence anywhere on the joint. If these criteria aren't met, your connection is likely to have considerably higher resistance than that of a connection using crimp-on closed end connectors or wire nuts. Check out the following link...

http://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-Tutorial-Inline-Splicing/
 
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