My bizarre & seemingly unsolvable cruise control issues...hoping for new ideas.

[Gigitt]

Cruise control can be cancelled by the following manual switch and action

1: clutch
2: front brake
3: rear door brake
4: roll the throttle negative
5: cruise on/off button

cruise might also be disabled via ecu when traction control kicks in
Hence why are pondering in this thread an issue with abs sensors as traction control monitors wheel rotation just like abs does when braking.

What I have not confirmed is cruise control is also deactivated by a gear change - I have a Healtech QuichShift pro QUICKSHIFTER on my 2015 ES I might have to test it this week and report back.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Throttle roll off, is that a full closure to idle? The human part can be a bit twitchy sometimes... Auto shift = sudden rpm and load changes. Informational, and I too am curious, not sure if it has any bearing here tho. ::017:: Does Cruise Control have it's own control module? Part of the control panel? Can it be changed separately? All else being functional, clutch lever switch, brake switches, swapping a known good module in might be interesting.

 

[RhodeTrip]

Re: My bizarre & seemingly unsolvable cruise control issues...hoping for new ideas.

Btw, I added a Baja Designs OnX LED lightbar in the fall of 2015. I've already completely disconnected and removed it and tested...to no resolution.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I would look around at anything disturbed while installing Look for pi that did’t lock into housing

 

[Gigitt]

Throttle roll off, is that a full closure to idle? The human part can be a bit twitchy sometimes... Auto shift = sudden rpm and load changes. Informational, and I too am curious, not sure if it has any bearing here tho. ::017:: Does Cruise Control have it's own control module? Part of the control panel? Can it be changed separately? All else being functional, clutch lever switch, brake switches, swapping a known good module in might be interesting.

Throttle on 2015+ Gen2 is different to 2012-2014 Gen1 bikes.

Negative throttle is not throttle roll off... like turn the trottle back to zero.

normal throttle goes 0-100%, but the throttle on the Gen2 bike with cruise control, you can actually go negative "-2 to 0 to 100 %"
the negative throttle does not lower the engine speed it is just a switch so you disable the cruise control without pulling in the clutch or tapping the brake lights, or turning off the cruise control button.

 

[DryRider]

I have a 2014 ES and my cc flashes amber and won't engage. I pull over and turn the key off start it back up and all is good happens every few weeks but always resets.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Throttle on 2015+ Gen2 is different to 2012-2014 Gen1 bikes.

Negative throttle is not throttle roll off... like turn the trottle back to zero.

normal throttle goes 0-100%, but the throttle on the Gen2 bike with cruise control, you can actually go negative "-2 to 0 to 100 %"
the negative throttle does not lower the engine speed it is just a switch so you disable the cruise control without pulling in the clutch or tapping the brake lights, or turning off the cruise control button.

Awesome. So there's another switch that can malfunction. ::010::

 

[sigeye]

I have a 2014 ES and my cc flashes amber and won't engage. I pull over and turn the key off start it back up and all is good happens every few weeks but always resets.

I sure hope you don't have the same issues I have. That's exactly how mine started back in 2015 - leading to present day.

 

[sigeye]

Awesome. So there's another switch that can malfunction. ::010::

The only good news is that it is extremely easy to test and troubleshoot. With a tank left, you can easily get to it and watch it work. Also easy to replace if needed and is constructed very much like the front brake switch. You have to be very intentional with negative throttle to get it to cancel.

 

[mebgardner]

I sure hope you don't have the same issues I have. That's exactly how mine started back in 2015 - leading to present day.

This is interesting, and new information. I don't remember sigeye telling us before, that this is how it all started.

I do think I remember him telling us it been getting progressively "worse" with holding engagement.

So, this is how it started. A flashing amber, and refusal to engage, followed by a reset that was successful for some "long" time. OK, more info is better.

If sigeye has not told repair techs this info, it *might* help to do so. *Maybe*...

 

[Checkswrecks]

This is interesting, and new information. I don't remember sigeye telling us before, that this is how it all started.

I do think I remember him telling us it been getting progressively "worse" with holding engagement.

So, this is how it started. A flashing amber, and refusal to engage, followed by a reset that was successful for some "long" time. OK, more info is better.

If sigeye has not told repair techs this info, it *might* help to do so. *Maybe*...

Agree and it raises the possibility of a throttle position sensor flaw, which we've seen on rare occasion before for other issues. IF IF IF it is TPS related, it would be tough to reproduce, as it would mean hitting the exact throttle position.

 

[mebgardner]

Agree and it raises the possibility of a throttle position sensor flaw, which we've seen on rare occasion before for other issues. IF IF IF it is TPS related, it would be tough to reproduce, as it would mean hitting the exact throttle position.

Shotgun the switch and the TPS sensor?

Edit:
I guess I would now wait for the results of the testing, and data gathered, to see if that reveals anything.

 

[Squibb]

I agree - first I've heard of a historic flashing amber condition, so the problem could well be TPS or something else obscure.

We can but wait & see what Yamaha can make out from the data grab idc.

 

[Nikolajsen]

I'm lost (not that It's matters so much for the solving of the problem , but more for me to understand)
In the past few post, I seen some abbreviations, that I don't understand..

Dryrider write "cc" flashes, what is "cc"?
Checkwrecks and (Squibb) write "TPS" related, what is "TPS"?

And also first time I heard that it started years ago ???

 

[Don in Lodi]

I understand CC light to mean the cruise control light. TPS is throttle position sensor. The fly by wire throttle most likely has two, one on the throttle bodies and the other in the electronic throttle actuator that the hand grip pulls on.

 

[sigeye]

Re: My bizarre & seemingly unsolvable cruise control issues...hoping for new ideas.

This is interesting, and new information. I don't remember sigeye telling us before, that this is how it all started.

I do think I remember him telling us it been getting progressively "worse" with holding engagement.

So, this is how it started. A flashing amber, and refusal to engage, followed by a reset that was successful for some "long" time. OK, more info is better.

If sigeye has not told repair techs this info, it *might* help to do so. *Maybe*...

Great point and I forgot to mention. Yes, the dealer and Yamaha are both aware. It started like described and finally through a code 090 in the Fall of 2015. That directed me towards confirming a broken front brake switch, which I replaced for the first time at that time. I have replaced once again since then (as a precaution, not because of a code). I replaced the rear brake switch at the same time too.


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[sigeye]

Re: My bizarre & seemingly unsolvable cruise control issues...hoping for new ideas.

Agree and it raises the possibility of a throttle position sensor flaw, which we've seen on rare occasion before for other issues. IF IF IF it is TPS related, it would be tough to reproduce, as it would mean hitting the exact throttle position.

Do you know how to test the throttle position sensor? I've been thinking about that all day and am jonesing to get home to the service manual.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[sigeye]

Re: My bizarre & seemingly unsolvable cruise control issues...hoping for new ideas.

I'm lost (not that It's matters so much for the solving of the problem , but more for me to understand)
In the past few post, I seen some abbreviations, that I don't understand..

Dryrider write "cc" flashes, what is "cc"?
Checkwrecks and (Squibb) write "TPS" related, what is "TPS"?

And also first time I heard that it started years ago ???

Unfortunately true about the 'years ago' part. See my original post. Started around December of 2015 or a little before.

I didn't keep good records of exactly when it started because I honestly thought it was something I was accidentally causing for a while. Until it began happening enough that I ruled that out (combined with testing).

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[DryRider]

Sorry, I used cc for cruise control. But I have had more than just that issue with it. It has in the past been very sluggish meaning slow to respond to input increase or decrease in speed by tapping +- buttons. My tech spent a whole bunch of time trying to find the problem last year and could not but he said he put some brake pads in it because they looked a bit worn at around 17K miles. The problem really became very intermittent after that...and I really only use cruise control at high speeds. He said he thought it took more time at those speeds 90+ to react. Not sure about the theory of that. Now when I go to use it from time to time when I push the on button...not the set button It will start flashing amber instead of being solid amber. I pull over hit the key off and back on then all is well stays solid amber and I can hit the set button and the green light comes on. I had in the past tried to follow some friends that did not have cc and was always on the + - button thought maybe I wore the thing out. Seems to work well at 60-75 then gets slow to respond is my recollection of the problem. Hope this helps guys.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Re: My bizarre & seemingly unsolvable cruise control issues...hoping for new ideas.

Do you know how to test the throttle position sensor? I've been thinking about that all day and am jonesing to get home to the service manual.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

It's a potentiometer. It will have a reference voltage going to it, it will have a signal coming from it, usually about a .5 volt at idle to somewhere near reference at wot, usually 5 volts, and it will have a ground. And sometimes a forth wire for an idle switch. You'll need a volt meter accurate enough to see and downward voltage spikes, opens in the potentiometer. There is the potential that the voltages will be reversed, full reference at idle, a fraction at wot. This is done key on. I've never tested one with an ohm meter, key off, should be do-able. Key on just lets you see more info.

 

[jbrown]

The Yamaha docs call the sensor attached to the throttle cable the "accelerator position sensor", and the sensor attached to the throttle body the "throttle position sensor". If the newer bikes are like my 2012, the diag mode allows reading of the signal level as you move the control. If that still works on the newer bikes, you can slowly twist the throttle grip and look for jumps in the signal level to check the "accelerator position sensor". The "throttle position sensor" would require some way to move the throttle shaft on the throttle body. I don't know if you can do that by hand.