Manual Cam Chain Tensioner VS 2014 Cam Chain Tensioner, On 2012 ST

Mark R.

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After hearing of '13 and older cam chain tensioners failing, and how the 2014 unit is somehow better, I ordered up one, to be installed when I change out the old clutch basket to the 2014 basket.

However, I am wondering if a simple manual cam chain tensioner might be better. On my DRZ-400, they are preferred to the automatic ones, because there is less overall tension exerted on the cam chain follower, and as a result, the entire cam drive systems are known to last longer. I believe there is a manual cam chain tensioner available for the ST.

So, for those of you with an opinion, please weigh in: Would you put in a 2014 cam chain tensioner, or put in a manual one?

::017::
 

tubebender

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I'll probably be putting in a 2014 CCT when I do the valves.
A manual one will have to be checked on a frequent basis as no one knows the amount of stretch over a given period until you get some sort of baseline.
Not to mention someone could possibly wind in to much pressure.

Besides, I'd rather be riding!

Just my 2 cent opinion.
 

Bikedude987

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I have nothing to add other than that I'm interested in the discussion. Can anyone with a manual one comment on how difficult it is to adjust? It seems to me that the CCT on the tenere is buried under the frame pretty good...
 

Mark R.

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They actually do not need very frequent adjustment - at least on thumpers. Still waiting to hear from someone with actual experience with one.
 

greg the pole

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I installed a manual one.
Not enough use out of it to report back.
Slack is taken up as needed, and don't see having to tighten it often.

As for being too tight, it will give you a whining noise, if too tight, due to the guard being rubbed on by the chain.
 

patrickg450

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no experience on my ST..................

Now I have KTM's for my dirt needs, and I have several experiences with them. I have heard "yes!!! it is a wear item" and I agree with that more than replace as needed, why? Well because shit wears out, they are dirt bikes (ADV in this case). So take wheel bearings, do you replace as needed or wait until it fails? Same logic should apply here (IMO).

Ok so with my KTM I put in after market tension-er, suppose to be better nicer and what not, well it failed and I went back to OEM. I had a buddy do the same thing, he had a diff aftermarket one and it failed as well. Can you put a manual one in? Yes. Is it better? IDK. Got to wait fro reviews, am I worried about damage? No, typically failures occur and there is no damage. When I get high hours I replace that and the chain, when I get the high mileage mark on my ST yes it will be replaced along with the chain.
 

fredz43

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greg the pole said:
I installed a manual one.
Not enough use out of it to report back.
Slack is taken up as needed, and don't see having to tighten it often.

As for being too tight, it will give you a whining noise, if too tight, due to the guard being rubbed on by the chain.
What if you adjust it too loose?
 

Koinz

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fredz43 said:
What if you adjust it too loose?
You don't want to know :D :D
 

longride

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So much hand wringing over something as simple as a cam chain tensioner. Really? ::) Almost as bad as the clutch basket angst. :))

Here is what you do; leave in your stock CCT until you hear your cam chain rattle, and then replace it with another stock CCT.

Your first CCT may never go out in 100,000 miles. It may go out in 20,000. It is just like a clutch, brake pads, or drive chain. Wait until it wears out, then replace it.

In the meantime go ride the shit out of your bike.
 

RED CAT

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I agree. Best option. May never wear out. Mine started to rattle on start up for a second once in a while at about 55,000kms.
 

RIVA

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longride said:
So much hand wringing over something as simple as a cam chain tensioner. Really? ::) Almost as bad as the clutch basket angst. :))

Here is what you do; leave in your stock CCT until you hear your cam chain rattle, and then replace it with another stock CCT.

Your first CCT may never go out in 100,000 miles. It may go out in 20,000. It is just like a clutch, brake pads, or drive chain. Wait until it wears out, then replace it.

In the meantime go ride the shit out of your bike.
::026:: ::026:: ::003:: ::002::
 

EricV

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Funny stuff. Do you own a S10 longride?

I'm pretty sure the dealer wouldn't have replaced my cct the day I picked the bike up. You are fooling yourself if you think you can trust hearing the rattle noise to decide when to change the cct.

KTM guys are different. You are conditioned to replace stuff after each ride, and that its normal to do that. Yamaha wheel bearings often go 100k or more. The new cct is not a 2014 part, its a revised part. Its what you get now when you order a cct for the super tenere. Of any year. The old p/n has been revised.

Most people can probably get away with changing the cct out at the &
52k valve check /adjust. But I would not suggest waiting longer than that, regardless of noise or no noise .
 

Ramseybella

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Talked to the U.S.A. Yamaha rep over the phone last week about manual units and OEM and how it effects the YES Warranty, if something go's wrong and is linked to the cam chain your SOL!
So with that they will most likely blame a leaky gas tank on the manual Tensioner.
 

greg the pole

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RED CAT said:
I agree. Best option. May never wear out. Mine started to rattle on start up for a second once in a while at about 55,000kms.
No thanks. For the $72 I spent on the manual CCT, I'll take the insurance over the worry. They are known to fail. It will take nothing for it to have a hickup once, and your valves are done.
 

ace50

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Guess I got lucky, as my dealer replaced the CCT and C basket for free when I bought my 2012 (after I 'informed' them about it) O:)
 

~TABASCO~

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We sell the correct Graves MCCT. I've installed many.
 
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