Lowering for shorter riders

[toompine]

I lowered my 2012 using Jaxons (Tabasco) links. I did not mind the tip toe on the streets but off road I wanted to be able to firmly plant my foot. Never a problem with less clearance below the skid plate. Pulled the front fork tubes up in the triple trees to get the same steering geometry. You have to have good links and Jaxons are the best.

 

[RideDualSport.com]

Lowering links are a serious modification to the motorcycles suspension and should really be avoided unless it is absolutely necessary. The extra length of the link will increase the leverage to the shock and effectively make the rear spring too soft. Since the back of the bike will sag, the steering geometry of the bike will be affected and unless the fork tubes are adjusted in the triple trees, the bike's handling will suffer.
If you are a heavier rider and load the bike with a lot of gear, chances are the rears shock spring will not be able to handle the load, even if the preload is increased.
The Super Tenere is a handful to maneuver in and out of parking or garages because it is so heavy. I always move the bike by standing next to it and walking it backwards, feet firmly on the ground.
This is only my opinion, which I rarely express on the internet, if ever at all.
Cheers!

 

[twinrider]

What are the ramifications? The most obvious would be less ground and cornering clearance, something the S10 doesn't have in abundance to begin with.

I am barely 5'7" and never felt the need to lower my Tenere. One foot flat on the ground is all I need for riding. For pushing the bike around I can sometimes manage sitting on the bike, but it's often easier to move it while dismounted.

 

[EricV]

while were on the subject ..does anyone know the torque settings for the dogbone nuts ?

From page 4-96 of the FSM, (for those playing along at home), it's 43 ft/lbs

 

[EricV]

So what are the ramifications of putting lowering links on my bike. Getting one inch more foot/toe contact would make things like pushing backwards out of my garage so much easier. But what else does it do?

I put lowering links from Ride On ADV, (Jaxon), on my '12 S10 for my wife to try. She rides a '11 F650GS2 with stock, (not the low model), suspension and a custom seat that is cut to make it easier for her to touch the ground at stops.

I have ridden my S10 in that configuration as well as the wife riding it. I'm 260# w/o gear fwiw. I moved the forks up in the triple trees 13mm, which from my research at the time was a proven sweet spot for 1" lowering in the rear. With the upside down forks, (USD), you can't raise the forks too much before you don't have the clamps all on a strait part of the forks.

The bike mostly handles the same as before, but it's much easier to tag the pavement in corners, especially if there is a dip or pot hole mid corner. What RideDualSport.com, (Dude, shorter user name, eh?, just put it in the sig line), wrote is spot on about the shock feeling softer, etc.

In a very basic set of terms, if you lower the rear w/o doing anything to the front, it will slow turn in and the bike will feel sluggish. If you raise the rear w/o doing anything else up front, you'll quicken turn in and the bike will feel a bit sharper and more tossible, or twitchy, depending on your personal taste. Regardless, 1" of change is something you will certainly notice!

For what its worth, the wife loved the brakes and power, and had no issues riding the bigger bike with it lowered 1" and a factory low seat. If we buy her a Super Tenere next, she will do the custom seat and probably not lower the bike with dogbones in order to get the easier foot down, but not compromise the suspension. The same choice she made with the BMW, for the same reason.

 

[EricV]

Thanks eric ..

Sorry M8, didn't notice you're in the UK. 59 Nm works too.

FWIW, the wife is 120# and 5'4" with a 29" inseam. She didn't have any touch downs, but she didn't push it much either, first time on the bike and all.

 

[dandil726]

I'm 5'6'' and I did the one inch in the rear and raised the front forks 1/2 in. I'm about 170 lb. and I softened up the ride a little. If I add gear for a trip I will stiffen things up. Rides just fine in all conditions on road & off road. I'm not overly aggressive when I ride. I did shave some foam from the seat for about another 1/2 in. Haven't had any problem off roads (fire roads and two ruts).

 

[Donk]

At 5'7" I've not lowered the S10 and can handle the bike just fine. Seat is in low position and I always move it sitting on it. I lowered my Triumph Explorer 20mm and that seems to have had no adverse affects to the bike.

 

[toompine]

At 5'7" I've not lowered the S10 and can handle the bike just fine. Seat is in low position and I always move it sitting on it. I lowered my Triumph Explorer 20mm and that seems to have had no adverse affects to the bike.

Ride it up a rocky switchback trail with washouts or up or down rock steps. This is the time you want to be able to get both feet down. This is a lot different than being at a stop light sliding off the saddle to one side to plant a foot. I like riding off road and at 5'9" the 1" lowering link gives me the off road control I want. Never had an issue with ground clearance or cornering clearance

 

[HHH]

The OEM low seat is a good choice without messing with suspension.

Yamaha OEM low seat:

Yamaha OEM seat:

 

[outthom]

Triple H, I also installed the OEM Low Seat. It seemed to me that almost all of the gain I got from the lower seat was lost because the OEM Low Seat is wider at the front. Was your experience different?

 

[Bushyar15]

So read this thread as I'm considering using lowering links on my bike…

Some really good thoughts/considerations here. BUT I need something explained to me. In my mind if you lower the rear of the bike 1" or 25mm, you need to lower the front end (raise the forks in the triples) equally, 1" or 25mm to restore the stock geometry. So why is 13mm the magic number to restore the geometry to stock?

There was also a comment that with "Longer" links you would increase the leverage on the shock therefore your spring rate and preload would have to be adjusted "harder". It would then stand to reason that putting the shorter ones on would decrease the leverage and therefore you'd lessen the preload?

Then there are a couple other considerations I didn't think of like the side stand could be too long, center stand becomes harder to use. Reduced ground clearance in corners so pegs will touch down sooner and possible the sides stand with "enlargers" installed.

 

[Checkswrecks]

So read this thread as I'm considering using lowering links on my bike…

Some really good thoughts/considerations here. BUT I need something explained to me. In my mind if you lower the rear of the bike 1" or 25mm, you need to lower the front end (raise the forks in the triples) equally, 1" or 25mm to restore the stock geometry. So why is 13mm the magic number to restore the geometry to stock?

There was also a comment that with "Longer" links you would increase the leverage on the shock therefore your spring rate and preload would have to be adjusted "harder". It would then stand to reason that putting the shorter ones on would decrease the leverage and therefore you'd lessen the preload?

Then there are a couple other considerations I didn't think of like the side stand could be too long, center stand becomes harder to use. Reduced ground clearance in corners so pegs will touch down sooner and possible the sides stand with "enlargers" installed.

All valid thoughts, but for $50 for the used ones being advertised here on the forum, what have you got to lose in trying?

 

[Bushyar15]

Agreed! And even if they are gone the 90 bucks Jaxon is asking is for a set is worth the shot! Just want to make sure I can restore the handling back to stock which I like….

All valid thoughts, but for $50 for the used ones being advertised here on the forum, what have you got to lose in trying?

 

[Dogdaze]

I believe the 13mm 'magic number' is because the rear suspension is based closer to the 'middle' of the bike, so a small adjustment there was cause the very back of the bike to be raised a lot more than at that point, whereas the fork are at the 'end' of the raised limit, if that makes sense? Imagine a child's see-saw, the pivot point (center) hardly has any degree of movement, yet as you go further out the angle changes, to the extreme at the ends. I hope that is not a clear as mud to you, it's the best way to explain it.

 

[The Ferret]

the front forks taper. If you lower yokes below 13mm you need to fit spaces around the forks for the clamps to have something to close on.

 

[Bushyar15]

Ah!!!! Gotcha. Thats why its not a 1 for 1... That makes sense to me...

I believe the 13mm 'magic number' is because the rear suspension is based closer to the 'middle' of the bike, so a small adjustment there was cause the very back of the bike to be raised a lot more than at that point, whereas the fork are at the 'end' of the raised limit, if that makes sense? Imagine a child's see-saw, the pivot point (center) hardly has any degree of movement, yet as you go further out the angle changes, to the extreme at the ends. I hope that is not a clear as mud to you, it's the best way to explain it.

 

[Bushyar15]

I was hoping that wasn't the ultimate answer as that would have meant the bike needed to be lowered more and the limiting factor was the tapered forks and not that correct handling was achieved.. Glad to read that isn't the case though.

the front forks taper. If you lower yokes below 13mm you need to fit spaces around the forks for the clamps to have something to close on.

 

[HoosierWolf]

So I've tried searching the site which I admit I may have just failed at but I've read a lot about modifying the seat so that it will connect to the frame without the tray. The problem I'm having is I cannot find a post saying what modification one does to the connector piece to accomplish this? I put the seat on the bike and sat on it to get a general idea and it actually connected but I'm guessing I was over bending the sat pan doing that so I took it back off.

Could someone please help explain what I need to do or just point me in the direction of a post that already 'splains what I'm totally not understanding?

 

[Don in Lodi]

So I've tried searching the site which I admit I may have just failed at but I've read a lot about modifying the seat so that it will connect to the frame without the tray. The problem I'm having is I cannot find a post saying what modification one does to the connector piece to accomplish this? I put the seat on the bike and sat on it to get a general idea and it actually connected but I'm guessing I was over bending the sat pan doing that so I took it back off.

Could someone please help explain what I need to do or just point me in the direction of a post that already 'splains what I'm totally not understanding?

Have you done the usual things yet? Lowering links, raising the forks 10mm, tried Yamaha's low seat...