Lower steering bearing removal

[holligl]

Buddie's bike with dangeously notchy steering. Bearing races removed easily but struggling with removing the lower bearing. Soaked with WD40 and using a sharp chislel. Floor chisle called out in the service manual. Has anyone successfully removed this with a chisle as called out in the manual? I know some have cut it off but I hate to go cutting around the stem. Heat with a torch (after removing the rubber drain cap)?

Suggestions and solutions welcomed!

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[RCinNC]

I wasn't able to remove it with a chisel either. My solution was to take the steering head to the motorcycle shop and have them remove the bearing and put on the new one. That was $35.00 well spent.

 

[holligl]

Able to cut it enough to weaken it and heat it while grinding. Chisle finished the job. Just started loose in this photo.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[WJBertrand]

Cut the cage off and discard the rollers. I used a chisel at the base of the bare inner race. It took a while to start moving, but once I got a small gap there it went quickly working around the race.

 

[bimota]

i had to cut mine off with a dremel chisel woudn,t move it

rob

 

[Berg_Donk]

I haven't had to replace my S10's bearings yet, but on other bikes, I've pressed the stem out of the triple which takes the bearing with it, then refitted it. May or may not be appropriate on the S10, TBD. Some heat from an electric heat gun helps too.

 

[magic]

Here's another method: Remove bearing cage and rollers. Slide a steel tube or pipe over steering stem. Weld it to inner race with 3 or 4 short welds. Do not make a full circle weld. Quickly slide inner race and tube off of stem. The heat from welding will expand inner race enough to remove it, I have used this method many times and it always worked.

 

[holligl]

Here's another method: Remove bearing cage and rollers. Slide a steel tube or pipe over steering stem. Weld it to inner race with 3 or 4 short welds. Do not make a full circle weld. Quickly slide inner race and tube off of stem. The heat from welding will expand inner race enough to remove it, I have used this method many times and it always worked.

That assumes I have a welder. Innovative approach.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[holligl]

I haven't had to replace my S10's bearings yet, but on other bikes, I've pressed the stem out of the triple which takes the bearing with it, then refitted it. May or may not be appropriate on the S10, TBD. Some heat from an electric heat gun helps too.

It looked to me that the stem is screwed in to the triple on the S10.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[holligl]

Good advise from @~TABASCO~ to use an appropriate driver to hit only the outer bearing race to seat the new one back on the stem. This was the closest beafy pipe I could find. Modified the first one with some slits and squeezed in the vice to acheive the right diameter. Filed away some of the internal threads to then fit over the lower stem. Stacked 4 more on top held together with gorilla tape. Drove it home nicely.

Started the two frame mounted races and drove them until flush, reassembled it all, and torqued into place per the manual. Nice and smooth.

These bearings do need a lot of added grease when new.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[bimota]

Good advise from @~TABASCO~ to use an appropriate driver to hit only the outer bearing race to seat the new one back on the stem. This was the closest beafy pipe I could find. Modified the first one with some slits and squeezed in the vice to acheive the right diameter. Filed away some of the internal threads to then fit over the lower stem. Stacked 4 more on top held together with gorilla tape. Drove it home nicely.

Started the two frame mounted races and drove them until flush, reassembled it all, and torqued into place per the manual. Nice and smooth.

These bearings do need a lot of added grease when new.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

the guy that but my new lower bearing on carrys a fork leg cut in half it fitted around the bearing perfectly to drive it down the stem

rob

 

[holligl]

My conclusion for this thread is this. DO PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE!
This is not a fun job, but it can be delayed or prevented by regular repacking of the bearings. If you buy a used (or even new) bike, these bearings should be checked and packed as one of your first tasks.

 

[scott123007]

Good advise from @~TABASCO~ to use an appropriate driver to hit only the outer bearing race to seat the new one back on the stem. This was the closest beafy pipe I could find. Modified the first one with some slits and squeezed in the vice to acheive the right diameter. Filed away some of the internal threads to then fit over the lower stem. Stacked 4 more on top held together with gorilla tape. Drove it home nicely.

Started the two frame mounted races and drove them until flush, reassembled it all, and torqued into place per the manual. Nice and smooth.

These bearings do need a lot of added grease when new.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

I think you meant the inner race. The outer race goes in the frame

 

[OldRider]

The only place you want to make contact with the bearing going on the stem is around the inner edge. Put grease on the bearing and stem, use something that touches the bearing flush all around the edge and push it on in a press. Put the hammer back in the tool box.

 

[holligl]

I think you meant the inner race. The outer race goes in the frame

Correct, thanks!

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[holligl]

My conclusion for this thread is this. DO PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE!
This is not a fun job, but it can be delayed or prevented by regular repacking of the bearings. If you buy a used (or even new) bike, these bearings should be checked and packed as one of your first tasks.

Besides a grease refresh, doing the maintenance rotates the bearing to different places in the race, prolonging wear. If you Don't do the maintenance the bearing sits in the same spot forever.

First ride with my buddy today. He could not believe the difference. I told him I could barely ride the bike before. It was really bad.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[Kruzzin5]

Besides a grease refresh, doing the maintenance rotates the bearing to different places in the race, prolonging wear. If you Don't do the maintenance the bearing sits in the same spot forever.

First ride with my buddy today. He could not believe the difference. I told him I could barely ride the bike before. It was really bad.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

are those original bearings that you replaced? What was the mileage on them?

 

[holligl]

are those original bearings that you replaced? What was the mileage on them?

Buddies bike he bought at 56k, currently over 70k. I'm sure they were original. Don't know if they were ever serviced, but it did not look like original grease.

My bike has over 100k and still original bearings, serviced every 16k mi.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[Boris]

Buddies bike he bought at 56k, currently over 70k. I'm sure they were original. Don't know if they were ever serviced, but it did not look like original grease.

My bike has over 100k and still original bearings, serviced every 16k mi.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

I changed my head bearings at 39k as there was a definite notch in the straightforward position (was lower bearing). Bike is now at 54k miles. I’ll be taking your advice and servicing them next winter, hopefully avoiding premature failure.

 

[bimota]

I changed my head bearings at 39k as there was a definite notch in the straightforward position (was lower bearing). Bike is now at 54k miles. I’ll be taking your advice and servicing them next winter, hopefully avoiding premature failure.

mine were changed a few months back 31000 on mine

rob