Looking for a definitve answer for 2" Riser modification.

triman11427

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I want to add height to my bars for a variety of reasons. My searches have left me without a clear answer to if I must extend the cables. Altrider has a video which suggests that with a couple of very inexpensive mods you can safely raise the bars. Others have suggested this is a dangerous setup. I can't imagine Altrider would suggest something that's unsafe. After all, the general consensus is they are a great company with excellent products for our bike. I don't want to compromise safety but I also don't want to start draining lines unless absolutely necessary. Any suggestions to adding the 2" risers safely, without line extensions would be appreciated.
 

snakebitten

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Actually, it seems you did research and get definitive answer. Since the answer is, "you can, but you don't have to".

Or put another way, some did, some didn't.

Kinda sucks, I know.

But here is my take.......It comes REAL close to you HAVE to. So close, in fact, that I'm erring on the safe side. It's done, and I don't have to worry\wonder.

This ain't my KLR. :)
 

klunsford

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There is also the 1" up and 1" back risers like I have from ROX. Gives you a little up and a little back to you without any cable extensions.
 

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patrickg450

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I did mine but changed out my bars, since the HUGE sweep is gone it brought the grip ends forward enough to compensate for the up and back. If I had kept stock bars then YES I would have done the longer lines.

Keep you bars, YES get them
New bars, NO you wont need them.


::021::
 

Titus

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Once you get much past 1.75 inchs it seems that the brake lines become compromised at full lock. At 2.5 inches the throttle cable will stick if you are turning 90 degrees or more. Galfer makes a braided line kit for a stock Tenere. They will extend the cluch and brake lines for a nominal fee. You can call them and work out the change order if you want them all or just order the two top ones. Some vendors on this site have the top lines available as well. I replaced every line on my bike with the extended Galfer kit. I now have +2.5 of adjsutment room!
 

OkState

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I have the 2" Rox and pulled back. Yes it will fit without longer cables. Yes the clutch and brake lines will not have any extra length and will be tight at full lock. If that worries you, longer lines or the Altrider method. SInce I don't spend significant time at full lock, I chose not to worry about it - I wasn't crazy about the Altrider method for the hydraulic lines, but the "bend the bracket" method for the throttle cable worked out great.
 

offcamber

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I also did the Altride mod....the clutch and brake are tight at full lock but I don't got to full lock very often so I'm not the concerned. That being said longer lines are on my list of todos..If you go longer lines be prepared to have a tough time unbolting the stock lines. Word has it they can be a real bitch to get loose.

Good Luck
 

~TABASCO~

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offcamber said:
I also did the Altride mod....the clutch and brake are tight at full lock but I don't got to full lock very often so I'm not the concerned. That being said longer lines are on my list of todos..If you go longer lines be prepared to have a tough time unbolting the stock lines. Word has it they can be a real bitch to get loose.

Good Luck
Just to let everyone know.. They are very easy to get loose, as long as each person has the right tool.. It requires a 10mm tube wrench or ferrule wrench.. If anyone tried to do the job with out this tool they are going to learn some new four letter words that afternoon...
Anyone can buy this one wrench at most parts house for about 5-6-7 bucks.... If you use the correct wrench it takes just a few minutes to loosen the ferrules...... easy..
 

Waiting

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There is absolutely no way I could have put the 2 inch rox risers on my bike without the longer lines. It is a very near thing even with the longer lines!
 

troll

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I have 2" Rox with no problems, although I trimmed the handle bar width by 1/2" on each side and released the clutch and front brake lines from the OEM catches. It all depends on how much roll-back you want from the risers.

With that said I also ordered the extended lines from Jaxon and will install them this season to get more roll-back from the risers. Jaxons lines are a very nice piece of kit. And as he has suggested in this post "a 10mm tubing wench" is all that one needs for the steel lines. This is not unique to his brake lines, it is the only safe way to deal with tubing/flare nuts and should be a part of any DIY guys tool kit. There is nothing to be afraid of in changing over to these longer lines. ::008::
 

fredz43

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I would not recommend the Auto Zone 10 mm tubing wrench. It nicely rounded the flare nut on the brake line on mine. Not sure where to buy a quality tubing wrench, but Auto Zone ain't the place in my experience. :mad:
 

troll

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fredz43 said:
I would not recommend the Auto Zone 10 mm tubing wrench. It nicely rounded the flare nut on the brake line on mine. Not sure where to buy a quality tubing wrench, but Auto Zone ain't the place in my experience. :mad:
Mine are Snap-On, but I was a professional HD mechanic for 20 years. Mac Tools, Craftsman Tools, Proto Tools or any well recognized brand.
 

fredz43

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troll said:
Mine are Snap-On, but I was a professional HD mechanic for 20 years. Mac Tools, Craftsman Tools, Proto Tools or any well recognized brand.
The last few Crafstman tools I bought were made in China, just like the Auto Zone tools. I'll look for the other brands, thanks.
 

troll

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fredz43 said:
The last few Crafstman tools I bought were made in China, just like the Auto Zone tools. I'll look for the other brands, thanks.
I have not purchased any Craftsman tools for twenty years.... they used to be very good quality tools. You can not buy better tools than Snap-on.
 

fredz43

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troll said:
I have not purchased any Craftsman tools for twenty years.... they used to be very good quality tools. You can not buy better tools than Snap-on.
Yeah, I remember those Craftsman tools back then. When I was selected to start work as an electrician apprentice about 1965 my dad took me to the Sears store and bought me my first set of hand tools and I still have some of them.

Last year I built a new deck on our house and decided to get some good power tools for the job. Went thru 3 Craftsman made in China 3/8 cordless drill-drivers before I was done with the deck. They did happily replace them when they broke though.
 

troll

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fredz43 said:
Yeah, I remember those Craftsman tools back then. When I was selected to start work as an electrician apprentice about 1965 my dad took me to the Sears store and bought me my first set of hand tools and I still have some of them.

Last year I built a new deck on our house and decided to get some good power tools for the job. Went thru 3 Craftsman made in China 3/8 cordless drill-drivers before I was done with the deck. They did happily replace them when they broke though.
My dad did a similar thing about the same time when I was starting my HD mechanic apprenticeship but it was Caterpillar tools from the Cat shop that were made by Snap-on back then. Still have the tools and the tool box.

Very cool, thanks for the good memories. ::008::
 

offcamber

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Not to interrupt the craftsman snap-on debate....


I'm really happy with the 2" Rox riser....my riding position is much more comfortable for me. If your unsure try them they can be had for about $65. Do the Altrider method and if you like the risers upgrade the lines....
 

troll

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offcamber said:
Not to interrupt the craftsman snap-on debate....


I'm really happy with the 2" Rox riser....my riding position is much more comfortable for me. If your unsure try them they can be had for about $65. Do the Altrider method and if you like the risers upgrade the lines....
no interruption, just back on task.... :-* This is great advice for a staged approach with low investment. The 2" Rox pivots really allow one to change the dimensions of the cockpit fore and aft as well as providing a better standing position. ::26:: ::26::
 
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