Leave it to me to damage the [rubber boot in the vicinity of the] final drive!

[Mikef5000]

::010::

Found this little guy:

Jammed behind my foot peg 'heel guard'. Upon forcing it out, I found it wore a hole though the boot:

Anyone know, is it possible to replace the thing without pulling the entire swingarm? There are four bolts in front of it, but it appears to be one part with the rest of the swingarm, so I'm not sure what unbolting those would accomplish.

All that's in here is a U joint correct? I'm thinking about simply shooting some extra grease in there and silicone-ing the hole up.

Thoughts?

 

[Dallara]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

~


I'd go ahead and pull the swingarm and replace the boot properly. It would give you a good opportunity to check the swingarm bearings and give them a proper servicing, greasing, etc. of both those and and the suspension linkage pivots. If reports of lack of proper greasing of the steering head bearings are any indication you can bet that the swingarm bearings, suspension linkage, etc. fared no better during factory assembly. Besides, you really don't know if any of that water you ran through affected the universal joint.

Nice time to properly grease up the shaft splines, too! ::008::

Just my two centavos...

Dallara



~

 

[Don in Lodi]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

From the rear of the engine to the final drive's face is a dry environment, no additional grease is required or needed. The splines that slip into the u-joint yokes need to have an anti corrosive treatment of some sort, grease works.
With the drive line pulled from the front yoke, can a new boot be worked into the space? 110k on my Royal and I never pulled one apart that far.

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

With the drive line pulled from the front yoke, can a new boot be worked into the space? 110k on my Royal and I never pulled one apart that far.

Negative. Notice in this picture, it's part of the swingarm:

The boot will have to go on from the front.

I understand the right thing to do is pull the swingarm, lube it while I'm in there, and replace the boot. But that being said, does anyone see a reason why going the fast/cheap/easy route of simply using a CV Joint Patch wouldn't work? At least for the rest of this season, and I'll inspect it and re-evaluate it this winter.

http://www.amazon.com/techI-CV-boot-repair-kit/dp/B007LTW0CE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1333250532&sr=8-4

I figure, if it's made for a CV joint that flexes in numerous ways and spins... it should definitely hold on this rubber boot that simply moves up and down a bit.

 

[Mellow]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Should work just fine.. the boot is just to keep dirt and moisture out of the area that's it.. However, that being said, you may have a lot of 'stuff' in there due to the damage in the 1st place. That u-joint spins pretty fast.. any 'stuff' in there may compromise it's function. I had to replace the u-joint on my ST1300 last year and it's a very similar design to the SuperT.

 

[NittanyXT]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Damn trees!

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Found this picture of what I'd be getting into:

It's $7.18 retail ::010::.

Anyone pulled the swingarm before? Wasp maybe?

Interestingly, it looks like the part of the swingarm I'm working with is bolted in:

4 visible bolts (silver towards the top of this picture) and 3 hidden bolts (on the inside of the rubber boot toward the bottom of this picture).

I'd assume the U joint itself is fastened in the transmission somehow? So I'm not going to be able to just unbolt all 7 bolts and pull the whole joint assembly out.

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Answered my own question:

The U joint is bolted to the transmission, and that part # 21 are thrust shims, so I really don't want to mess with that.

I'll take a closer look later, but despite the 3x cost, I'm leaning heavily towards the 'easy way out'.

 

[Mellow]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

I don't think it's bolted.. I 'think' it just pushes on to the output shaft and when the rest of the swingarm is installed, it keeps it from moving front-to-rear. That's pretty much how I've seen it on Honda's.

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Found an action shot from Saturday that shows the culprit:

 

[ErnsTT]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Anyone know, is it possible to replace the thing without pulling the entire swingarm? There are four bolts in front of it, but it appears to be one part with the rest of the swingarm, so I'm not sure what unbolting those would accomplish.

Keep off those bolts whatever you do !
Its the angledrive wihich is shimmed to speck, loosening and retightening it just a little different will possibly grind itself to pieces...

The Joint though is a beautifull made affair, consisting of replaceble bearings, giving you the possibility you are searching for with a little luck, pop out two of the bearings, and whiggle the joint out of it, loosen the top of the damper to let the wheel drop some further giving more room on the joint.

Pull the old boot, and replace after thorough de-dusting the joint, and remove any grease found with new clean high load grease.

No garanty there is enough room without pulling the final drive assy from the swing arm, but whatever you do, don't ever open a angle gear when not really impossible to prevent becaus of inside failure. So it is possible to remove the *complete* rear angle drive unit, to get more slack on the joint, but if you warm up the new boot to 60°C (warm drinable coffee) and "grease" it with vaseline you could be able to whiggle it through the joint and push it forward to re-fit the bearings into the joint.

But to me, don't "fix" what ain't broke, and just clean out the booth, and replace any smudged grease with new, and glue the hole in it with compatible "2-compund rubber cement" and just check it once in a while till 40.000km's then the swing-arm has to be checked and the booth can be replaced the proper "big-work" way...

 

[ErnsTT]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

I don't think it's bolted.. That's pretty much how I've seen it on Honda's.

It's the Yamaha "porsche design" rear drive, which is a realy different design, look at no.13, its a lock nut...
Only accesible if the joint is "opened" as described in my other post.
Get a parts manual, and look at the beautiful design at the rear of the power-rod, it even got a damper at the rear which is spring loaded to minimise slack, to ge the ultimate lowrev walking ability, just try that with an Beemer, its *clankclankclank* til the non-servicable bearings are hammered out of the flimsy joint crevices, rendering the bike immovable (BTDT in the middle of Paris...)

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

The swingarm is supposed to be pulled at 40,000 km? Dang, I'm already half way there...

Temporary fix it is!

Thanks!

::012::

 

[Tremor38]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Answered my own question:

The U joint is bolted to the transmission, and that part # 21 are thrust shims, so I really don't want to mess with that.

I'll take a closer look later, but despite the 3x cost, I'm leaning heavily towards the 'easy way out'.

That's not the U-joint...that is one yoke half that it fits into.

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

#11 is the transmission half of the U-joint.

 

[Tremor38]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

#11 is the transmission half of the U-joint.

Click on the PDF attachment I provided below and look at the cross-shaped item that items 7 and 6 fit onto...that is the U-joint, which fits into the yoke you show in your detail. That, and the needle bearings (item 7) comprise what is known as a universal joint (U-joint). Changing the U-joint just requires removal of the 4 needle bearings from the yokes.

But I imagine all you need is to fix the boot, as you said, so you can keep grease in and around the needle bearings and prevent dirt intrusion. As someone said earlier, damn trees!

 

[cosmic]

Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Found an action shot from Saturday that shows the culprit:

Imo, a decent skid plate could have prevent the damage.


©

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

Imo, a decent skid plate could have prevent the damage.

Agreed.

 

[stevepsd]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

You should really change the title of this thread, since your torn boot is nowhere close to being the final drive.

 

[Mikef5000]

Re: Leave it to me to damage the final drive!

I guess I assumed that the drive shaft in it's entirety was the final drive. Like, everything aft the transmission. Perhaps technically the 'final drive' is just the pumpkin? I really don't know, never had a drive shaft bike before.
I know considering the rubber boot part of the drive shaft isn't entirely correct, and it was more or less tongue in cheek, I guess the title could be changed to "I rode her to hard and blew a hole in the rubber".