Instantly 15 more free HP

[Travex]

This thread was a very interesting and informative read. The switch arrived today and will be installed tonight for the convenience and necessity of switching on the fly for any given surface, condition or circumstance.
For reasons apparent, Yamaha is clearly unable to advertise or endorse a mod such as this. To particularly address those who feel that damage may be caused... I can only say that word from 'on high' would have certainly intervened at some point over the course of this lengthy thread if it were so... As this is the definitive S10 resource. Therefore it would not go by unnoticed or responded to with a cautionary statement somewhere. IMHO, no response is one with tacit approval. It's either an Easter egg or serendipitous engineering. In any event, we win.

For my part, you'll not hear feedback from me on this until the Buffalo, NY permafrost abates and the roads are salt free. However, based upon the knowledge and experience base here I have no doubt that I'll be among the countless thrilled. It appears that my TEN'er will be new again in the coming spring.

My sincere thanks to all you pioneers for having worked this out. ::003::

 

[FacePalm]

Being an electrical novice, I dont quite understand the part where just adding a switch to the circuit, without actually putting it " in between" the power source & its destination, would affect The operation of the clutch switch.

Being a novice, and treating the electrical system like a plumbing system, it seems that just adding the switch in the way that you did would not affect the electrical current.

Help!

P.s. With this switch mod, do I still need to use the original fuse mod in addition?

I finally got around to installing a dedicated clutch override switch and thought I'd throw up some photos in case anyone is considering the mod.

The handlebar switch I used has already been shown in this or another thread - it is the Tusk Universal On/Off Switch (part nos 1274920001) which is available all over the net including Ebay (and probably some dealers) for about $10+shipping. It fits a 7/8" handlebar and is narrow enough that it can go between the clutch perch and the switchgear. It looks like a engine cutoff switch (and actually is embossed "Engine Stop" although the lettering is subtle). It looks "factory" on the bike.

I decided to wire my switch in parallel with the existing clutch switch rather than replace the clutch switch. The reason for this is that I want the bike's behavior to return to stock - where this circuit is controlled by operating the clutch - when I have the Tusk switch off.

This required that I tap into the clutch switch wiring. I stripped the wires slightly inboard of the clutch switch connector and soldered taps, but you could use Scotch Lock connectors or a vampire tap. I wanted a more factory look with Japanese-bike-style bullet connectors. I used the two that came with the Tusk switch and found another couple lying around, but you can get similar ones at Radio Shack.

If you solder, you do have to insulate the two wires from one another at the taps. You can't use the preferred method of heat shrink tubing since you don't have access to the wire ends. I tried some "liquid electrical tape" which didn't work worth a damn, but regular electrical tape, carefully wrapped around each wire, worked fine. Lots of ways to skin the cat here.

BTW, when you finish, you can test the setup by seeing whether the bike starts in gear without the clutch pulled. With the switch off, it shouldn't start, but if you override with the Tusk switch, it should attempt to start in gear.

Happy modding.

The clutch switch connector. You need to tap into the two wires going to this connector...

Soldering the taps with short female bullet connector pigtails....

After cleanup, now have two female bullet connectors in parallel with the regular clutch switch connector...

The Tusk switch has very long wiring that needs to be shortened and I wanted male bullets, so I cut the wiring and spliced on pigtails, here you can use heat-shrink...

The Tusk switch read to bolt to the handlebar....

Final hookup....

Clean up the wiring with a few tie-wraps and done....

- Mark

 

[SuperCruise]

Here's where my clutch switch switch is located. I just soldered the switch wires direct to the clutch switch wires.

 

[markjenn]

Being an electrical novice, I dont quite understand the part where just adding a switch to the circuit, without actually putting it " in between" the power source & its destination, would affect The operation of the clutch switch.

Don't make this too complicated. The stock clutch switch is a simple switch that connects two wires when you pull the clutch. If you wire another switch in parallel to the clutch switch across the same two wires, then closing this extra switch connects the two wires just like you're pulling the clutch. That's all this switch mod does - adds another switch so the bike thinks you have the clutch constantly pulled, even when it is out. When you don't have the extra switch closed, then it reverts back to behaving as it did before the mod.

If you don't want to be able to switch back and forth and want this mod to be always on, then you simply short the two wires together permanently. One way of doing this is to discconect the connector from the clutch and put a fuse between the two wires at the connector.

Either works exactly the same when on, but the parallel switch gives you the option to revert back to the way the bike is stock.

- Mark

 

[SuperCruise]

Being an electrical novice, I dont quite understand the part where just adding a switch to the circuit, without actually putting it " in between" the power source & its destination, would affect The operation of the clutch switch.

Being a novice, and treating the electrical system like a plumbing system, it seems that just adding the switch in the way that you did would not affect the electrical current.

Help!

P.s. With this switch mod, do I still need to use the original fuse mod in addition?

The new switch is being placed in parallel with the existing clutch switch, so that operation of either switch is sending the signal that the clutch has been pulled in.

Think of it like the interior light in a car whereby the opening of any door turns the light on because the door switches are wired in parallel, like the following diagram shows.

 

[Scottie Boy]

I admit it. I'm late to the party. I wanted to give this clutch mod a few months and see if any here reported ill effects. After reading 34 pages of mostly glowing reviews I finally decided to try it myself today. All I can say is wow what a difference. Since day one, when starting from a dead stop my bike has always fell on its face at the point when the clutch was almost completely engaged. I had learned to ride around it but it was never confidence inspiring when pulling out into traffic. That hesitation is completely gone. The clutch and throttle at low speeds feel natural and intuitive now. I wouldn't go as far as saying that its a fire breathing Ducati slayer. It just feels like the fuel injection is properly dialed in. ::015::

 

[toompine]

Here's where my clutch switch switch is located. I just soldered the switch wires direct to the clutch switch wires.

You going to tell us about that cruise control box? :question: Share please

 

[3putt]

Here is one. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669228

Also a thread over there on the one SuperCruise did.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=622697

 

[toompine]

Here is one. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669228

Also a thread over there on the one SuperCruise did.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=622697

Thanks. How difficult a job was it?

 

[FacePalm]

Hey guys, thanks a bunch, you cleared it up for me :-*

Now to order the parts & get busy.

The new switch is being placed in parallel with the existing clutch switch, so that operation of either switch is sending the signal that the clutch has been pulled in.

Think of it like the interior light in a car whereby the opening of any door turns the light on because the door switches are wired in parallel, like the following diagram shows.

 

[SuperCruise]

Thanks. How difficult a job was it?

The hardest bit is mounting the actuating cable to the throttle, otherwise if you have done other motorbike wiring and spanner swinging it's not too hard. It took me a few weeks of a couple of hour stints to do mine, but mine was the prototype and there was some trial and error with my initial install. I reckon it could be done in 3-5 hours from scratch with instructions laid out in front of you.

 

[markjenn]

The hardest bit is mounting the actuating cable to the throttle, otherwise if you have done other motorbike wiring and spanner swinging it's not too hard. It took me a few weeks of a couple of hour stints to do mine, but mine was the prototype and there was some trial and error with my initial install. I reckon it could be done in 3-5 hours from scratch with instructions laid out in front of you.

SC, I think you got this thread and the cruise control thread crossed. No big deal, but I didn't want our "electrical novice" to get buffaloed.

- Mark

 

[3putt]

No, I was just answering Toompine, then SC stepped in with the real answers. Sort of a side short conversation. Sorry about the confusion.

 

[markjenn]

No, I was just answering Toompine, then SC stepped in with the real answers. Sort of a side short conversation. Sorry about the confusion.

Got it. Didn't see that a cruise control discussion got embedded into this thread. No big deal. Carrry on.

- Mark

 

[Jap_STi_3]

Just had an interesting discussion with a mate of mine down the road who bought the Tenere on my recommendation. He as just been down to Greece for a month and had the "Fuse Mod" in on the way down. Found no ill mechanical issues. Only when he was going over the Alps with his wife on the back did he realise that the added power became a major issue. And after a couple of wide bends and near nasty experiences did he remove the "Fuse mod".

Not a great deal-of insight but I'm sure when he reads this he will explain in more depth.

 

[Monty]

Re: Re: Instantly 15 more free HP

Just had an interesting discussion with a mate of mine down the road who bought the Tenere on my recommendation. He as just been down to Greece for a month and had the "Fuse Mod" in on the way down. Found no ill mechanical issues. Only when he was going over the Alps with his wife on the back did he realise that the added power became a major issue. And after a couple of wide bends and near nasty experiences did he remove the "Fuse mod".

Not a great deal-of insight but I'm sure when he reads this he will explain in more depth.

Hi dude,

I found that the extra grunt was most useful in the pyrenees with Mrs Monty. Fitted a switch so could really toggle between modes too.

Regards,

Matt

 

[The Ferret]

I've hadnasty experiences on bends without the mod, waiting for the power to come in and its doesn't, those milliseconds seem to matter! Its all down to throttle control and what you're used to, and how quickly you get used to something new. I moved from 5yrs of FJR grunt to the very different throttle of the Tenere. I welcomed the 'mod' and put a switch on. In our recent bad weather ( ice,mud and rain) i switched the mod out for a thirty mile section. For those conditions not having the extra was good, but I switched back ASAP. I don't have a pillion or extra weight so don't know how having the power in 123 wouls adversely affect it.

 

[twinrider]

Just had an interesting discussion with a mate of mine down the road who bought the Tenere on my recommendation. He as just been down to Greece for a month and had the "Fuse Mod" in on the way down. Found no ill mechanical issues. Only when he was going over the Alps with his wife on the back did he realise that the added power became a major issue. And after a couple of wide bends and near nasty experiences did he remove the "Fuse mod".

Not a great deal-of insight but I'm sure when he reads this he will explain in more depth.

I've found that the smoother power delivery afforded by the clutch mod makes it easier to ride with a passenger. The stock stumble was a pita.

 

[snakebitten]

The simple reason for "the switch" version for this mod is choice. No reason to remove choice.

It may be rare (it is) that I turn the mod off so that I can access the factory modes, but I can. My bike will always have 3 modes.

 

[Rasher]

I've found that the smoother power delivery afforded by the clutch mod makes it easier to ride with a passenger. The stock stumble was a pita.

I agree, as is rolling on the throttle exiting a turn / roundabout, or when trying to overtake a slow vehicle and finding the bike has nothing to give for a few seconds, which if your staring at an oncoming 18 wheeler feels like a whole lot longer.

I can only imaging how awful it would be on roads like the Stelvio where you have about 90 hairpins to negotiate which will all be ruined by the utterly shite 2nd gear throttle response.

I too have the switch so it can be turned off, but apart from mud / ice / sand / gravel I cannot see being used much.