I have a bad handle bar buzz.

EricV

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Just a minor correction on what EricV said about over tightening the handlebar clamps. They cannot be overtightened per se, as they have spacers inside the rubber vibration isolators that the nut and washer bottom out against. I don't have the torque value available, but they are supposed to be "tight".
Thanks for the correction Scott. I couldn't go look, having sold the bike and completely forgot that the sleeves prevent over compressing the bushings.
 

Sierra1

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Each bike will have it's own negative frequencies. A certain RPM that will resonate at just that "wrong" frequency that bothers your hands. Sometimes it's a certain speed instead of RPM. The RT 1150's was 65-75mph, and my had would go numb. The ST1300's speed was er, lets just say higher, before my hands would tingle. I don't remember if the FJR ever bothering me. The Tenere doesn't seem to vibrate/buzz that bad until I get above 6k. The cruise is likely a big factor for reducing vibes to the hands, since while it's on, I don't really grip the bars. 5K miles seemed to be my bike's "break-in" mileage. The motor seemed smoother, and reved quicker.
 

firstime911

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After I rode it like a stolen bike on my last time, and for today trip, i rode 8 hrs straight i suffer a handle bar buzzing, my right hand felt numb when i stop at gas station. The damx side mirror start moving again, have to adjust on the go. Plus, the engine start to sounds very loud and vibrate on throttle, is only 3xxx miles on clock. Hmm.... i start to miss my GSA butter smooth.
 

ballisticexchris

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Hmm.... i start to miss my GSA butter smooth.
The GSA is like two paint cans being shaken horizontally. I also never could get used to the torque of the motor pulling me sideways and the shaft hop BMW has never been able to manage. And using the unreliable and complicated variable valve timing to meet EPA requirements is the nail in the coffin for the antiquated motor.

FWIW every single motor cop I have spoken with loves the ST Honda over the BMW. With the exception of Hondas weak electrical system, everything about the ST is better. Well, maybe not tire life.....


I have found the Super Tenere one of the smoothest bikes ever. 500 mile days on my single cylinder Beta were tough. The Super Tenere laughs at 500 mile days and being planted in the saddle for 200+ miles between fill ups is effortless (unless I have to pee). My body is the only thing that balks at the miles.
 

moto.monk

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Had the grip puppies hated them and took them off immediately. My bars been buzzy for that last 5k miles probably due for a steering bearing check after 58k miles. Also my rear wheel bearings are bad so probably contributing to the problem. I have 2 of the 3 bearing with the last being back ordered until 9/28.
 

Arkyrider

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Grip Buddies or Grip Puppies, neither one helped me with getting numb fingers. I installed Heli Bar risers and haven’t had the problem since. For me it was all about the pressure from slightly leaning forward.
 

ballisticexchris

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Also my rear wheel bearings are bad so probably contributing to the problem. I have 2 of the 3 bearing with the last being back ordered until 9/28.
A quick search finds that both front and rear wheel bearings are available right now. Simply order on Ebay or amazon a set of All Balls bearings. They are every bit as good as OEM and much cheaper.
 

moto.monk

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A quick search finds that both front and rear wheel bearings are available right now. Simply order on Ebay or amazon a set of All Balls bearings. They are every bit as good as OEM and much cheaper.
I was going to go with then but if you google them you find bad reviews from a huge range of vehicles.
 

Sierra1

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. . . . FWIW every single motor cop I have spoken with loves the ST Honda over the BMW. With the exception of Hondas weak electrical system, everything about the ST is better. Well, maybe not tire life.....
I can't testify on the RT12, but the ST was better than the RT1150. The Beemer had a better electrical system because of the two batteries. That, combined with the non-linked brakes, and narrower side boxes, were LE only options. They bragged about building the only dedicated "Authority" bike. But, then they use a weak ass side stand and starter, and a little bitty windscreen.

The Honda lacked the deep cycle battery, but had a big ass alternator. I know a guy that works for L.A. Unified School District PD on motors. They had made the move from BMW to Honda because of cost of ownership. They were putting well over 100k miles on the bikes before replacement. He said about the only thing they replaced on the Honda was the alternator. Even if they had a guy that burned up a clutch, it was $400 v. $1,400.
 

ballisticexchris

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Funny story on a motor cops ST. All the Costa Mesa PD bikes had a little plug in pigtail so they would pull out the cables and could get a jump start. I jumped one for an officer once. I imagine now they have those little lithium jumpers. Another comment I heard was how scary the Hondas were. It was said they just flat out haul butt!! Very deceptive speed and acceleration.
 

Kurgan

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I've chased handlebar buzz and/or vibration on many bikes over the years due to a borderline carpal tunnel situatoion - singles, parallel twins, v-twins, triples, V-4's and Inline 4's.

First, let's be clear what we're discussing. Buzz is higher frequency stuff which leaves your finger tips or palms tingling, almost numb, feeling like a tuning fork. Those don't originate from an out of balance tire or steering head bearings. Vibrations are lower frequency and you would feel this in your hands, wrists and forearms to a degree. Lower frequency and higher amplitude....think of a Buell or a Harley shaking...that's vibration, not buzz.

If what you are experiencing is buzz and it recently started or at least got worse to the point it was noticeable...

Have you changed anything on the bike recently? Added any accessories that might mount to the frame or engine like skid plates or crash bars? Those can amplify a previously unnoticeable buzz or vibration and make it an issue. What about handllebars, same? Grips, same? Riding gloves, same? What else to check..

1.) Check your handlebars, loosen the mounting bolts and re-torque to factory settings.
2.) Check the clamps on the head to throttle body (TB) intake manifolds, make sure they are snug. Do the same for the intake boots between the airbox and the TB's.
3.) Check the TB's to make sure they are in sync.
4.) Check all of your engine-to-frame mounts for proper torque to factory settings.
5.) Check your exhaust bolts, starting at the head...anything loose?

Gen 1's have a bit more vibes and they worked on lessening this on Gen 2's with a redesigned clutch basket. I'll probably swap that out on my Gen 1 this Winter.

My Oxford heated grips also pass along a lot more buzz than factory grips, to the point I get pissed that I haven't removed them during the summer. Best option if f you don't have heated grips on your bike, I would strongly suggest buying ProGrip model 714's. No other grip I've tried since the mid 90's does as much to reduce felt buzz and vibration.

Good luck!
 
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