How to replace spokes nipples?

[pilleway]

Hi to all!
I got my 2013 S10 some weeks a go and after I got it I did a overall inspection and maintentance work (oil and filter change, cooling, brake fluid) etc.
When I got to the spokes I had some issues, some sopkes were ok, others to tight and those tight I had problems because I damage the niple with the 5mm hex due to the excesive torque, I try to loose those and the niple would not loose so the hex was damage in the other direction. How can I loose them? I had DW40 to see if it will loose them but did not help at all.
In someone experience, how will I replace the damage nipples? can I loose the specific nipple and replace it with a good one.
Also I noticed that (if I'm correct) every side of the wheel there is a nipple with a torx and not 5mm hex , I being reading issues regarding spokes and seen the service mnual and does not say anything regarding specific nipple.

Also in the service manual does not say (or I have not being able to identify) how to replace a single spoke /nipple, does someone knows the process?

Regards to all and have a great riding weekend!!

 

[EricV]

Someone has apparently abused your wheels before you got the bike. The stock nipples are all 5mm hex, (allen), style. I'm not sure I understand why you were loosening spoke nipples. That is only required if you are truing a wheel. In most cases, it's best to leave that to the professionals. It's very easy to end up worse than when you started.

Put a new nipple in the hub and thread it onto the spoke. When snug, put the torque wrench on and tighten it to 52 in/lbs (6.2 Nm), and be done with it.

As far as the damaged nipples go, I would offer the suggestion that you LEAVE THEM ALONE. When and IF you ever need to do anything with them, you will probably need to use a wrench or vice grip pliers on the tail of the nipple on the spoke end where there are flats. I would not be surprised if someone put locktite on those nipples since you clearly have non-OEM nipples in some places. Someone was not checking their spokes often enough and then went overkill after losing some nipples or damaging spokes. You may end up having to use heat along with the vice grip pliers to remove the damaged nipples if they have locktite on them.

Keep It Simple. Don't do more than you need to and just ride the bike.

 

[OldRider]

Pilleway, I'm putting your spokes in the mail today. They do come with new nipples. Also each spoke is marked so you will know if it's a right, left or inner spoke.

 

[pilleway]

Someone has apparently abused your wheels before you got the bike. The stock nipples are all 5mm hex, (allen), style. I'm not sure I understand why you were loosening spoke nipples. That is only required if you are truing a wheel. In most cases, it's best to leave that to the professionals. It's very easy to end up worse than when you started.

Put a new nipple in the hub and thread it onto the spoke. When snug, put the torque wrench on and tighten it to 52 in/lbs (6.2 Nm), and be done with it.

As far as the damaged nipples go, I would offer the suggestion that you LEAVE THEM ALONE. When and IF you ever need to do anything with them, you will probably need to use a wrench or vice grip pliers on the tail of the nipple on the spoke end where there are flats. I would not be surprised if someone put locktite on those nipples since you clearly have non-OEM nipples in some places. Someone was not checking their spokes often enough and then went overkill after losing some nipples or damaging spokes. You may end up having to use heat along with the vice grip pliers to remove the damaged nipples if they have locktite on them.

Keep It Simple. Don't do more than you need to and just ride the bike.

Erick thanks for the advise, you are correct that I should not mess around on the wheel, but I was wondering ir needed to do so! Regarding the issue of an expert, of course I'm not but my mechanical skills will help me to work around the issue, your advice is well receibed and if I end up doing it I will work it very carefully.

My best regards!
Miguel.

 

[pilleway]

Someone has apparently abused your wheels before you got the bike. The stock nipples are all 5mm hex, (allen), style. I'm not sure I understand why you were loosening spoke nipples. That is only required if you are truing a wheel. In most cases, it's best to leave that to the professionals. It's very easy to end up worse than when you started.

Put a new nipple in the hub and thread it onto the spoke. When snug, put the torque wrench on and tighten it to 52 in/lbs (6.2 Nm), and be done with it.

As far as the damaged nipples go, I would offer the suggestion that you LEAVE THEM ALONE. When and IF you ever need to do anything with them, you will probably need to use a wrench or vice grip pliers on the tail of the nipple on the spoke end where there are flats. I would not be surprised if someone put locktite on those nipples since you clearly have non-OEM nipples in some places. Someone was not checking their spokes often enough and then went overkill after losing some nipples or damaging spokes. You may end up having to use heat along with the vice grip pliers to remove the damaged nipples if they have locktite on them.

Keep It Simple. Don't do more than you need to and just ride the bike.

Regarding loosening the spoke nipples was because I identified that were very tight so I try to loose them to assure the proper torque was given to the spoke. Yes I do not know what kind of abuse was done to the wheels before I got the bike, even I had questioned the maintenance done.
Do not get me wrong, on the overall the bike is in a really good shape with details, I even fill that the bike worth what I pay for it and was a GOOD deal! The bike is GREAT and is a pleasure every time I ride on it.

Gracias (Thanks)
Miguel

 

[ballisticexchris]

Someone has apparently abused your wheels before you got the bike. I would not be surprised if someone put locktite on those nipples. .

Which is the correct way to keep them from loosening. When building or truing wheels it's always best to slather the spoke threads and nipples in Loctite 2047. It's commonly used for mining and is the highest strength you can buy. I use it on on all my fasteners from small to large. It's not only good for spokes but also all the small fasteners. It's my go to for anything that comes loose.

 

[pilleway]

Which is the correct way to keep them from loosening. When building or truing wheels it's always best to slather the spoke threads and nipples in Loctite 2047. It's commonly used for mining and is the highest strength you can buy. I use it on on all my fasteners from small to large. It's not only good for spokes but also all the small fasteners. It's my go to for anything that comes loose.

How stiff is the Loctite 2047? will it be hard enogh to damage the hex on the nipples?

 

[pilleway]

How stiff is the Loctite 2047? will it be hard enogh to damage the hex on the nipples?

Reading the specs for loctite 2047 is used to seals threaded fasteners over 7/8" in diameter, it looks to be high capacity seal since it is for high diameter bolts, don't you think. I will not use it at all for a less than a 1/4" bolts. There might be other much more friendly for small bolts.

 

[pilleway]

Reading the specs for loctite 2047 is used to seals threaded fasteners over 7/8" in diameter, it looks to be high capacity seal since it is for high diameter bolts, don't you think. I will not use it at all for a less than a 1/4" bolts. There might be other much more friendly for small bolts.

This is what I found in Henkel adhesives who sells Locktite and looking in to the information I will look in to Locktite 222 (low strength)" Low Strength (Purple): Ideal for fasteners <1⁄4" (6 mm). Easy disassembly using hand tools" or at the must I will use locktite 243 "Medium Strength (Blue): Designed to be removable with standard hand tools on 1⁄4" to 3⁄4" fasteners " The interesting about this two products is "emovable with standard hand tools"

 

[EricV]

Most people really only use one of three flavors of locktite; Blue, Red or Green. In reality, there are a large variety of different Locktite products from fillers to thread lockers to pipe adhesive, etc. I would guess someone used high strength Red locktite on the spokes if he's stripping out the hex socket on the nipple. That requires heat to loosen. But again, I ask why the attempt to loosen spoke nipples. You need them to be tight, you can't say they are over tightened just because you couldn't get them loose. It is a Bad Idea™ to loosen spokes on a wheel that has acceptable run out or is true. Just snug up the loose ones to torque via an alternating method.

 

[pilleway]

Most people really only use one of three flavors of locktite; Blue, Red or Green. In reality, there are a large variety of different Locktite products from fillers to thread lockers to pipe adhesive, etc. I would guess someone used high strength Red locktite on the spokes if he's stripping out the hex socket on the nipple. That requires heat to loosen. But again, I ask why the attempt to loosen spoke nipples. You need them to be tight, you can't say they are over tightened just because you couldn't get them loose. It is a Bad Idea™ to loosen spokes on a wheel that has acceptable run out or is true. Just snug up the loose ones to torque via an alternating method.

I understand, I will just assure there is no loose nipples! and put them to specs. no problem!

 

[jeckyll]

I use the same method I use on mtn bikes, ping each spoke with a wrench, if they sound way out of 'tune compared to its neighbours' investigate.

 

[EricV]

Sorry to over state my opinion. I'm sure you will sort it out to your satisfaction.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I understand, I will just assure there is no loose nipples! and put them to specs. no problem!

pilleway , I was kidding. You should never use any kind of loctite on the spokes. I suggest putting some grease or NeverSeeze on the threads.

Plenty of threads here on the spoke issues with this model. Another tip is use a quality hex head tool so as not to strip the nipple. FWIW, the Super Tenere spokes take longer to bed in than any other wheel out there.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I've read of the wicking green loctite. I'm in the camp of putting nothing at all on the nipples, but if I did, it would be the green.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Whenever I built wheels I used Never Seez on the spokes. When Rad Manufacturing sent me a repaired wheel I saw they used just regular old grease.