How to remove and re-use factory heated grips?

[Wrathchild]

I want to do bars but I have never removed grips without a razor blade before. How can I get them off the stock bars and onto some aftermarket bars without f'ing them up?
And for those who have done it, how do I make sure those grips are on there solid without a safety wire? Grip glue? I know the right side one the throttle tube just slides off but what about the left?
Also, recommendations on bars that will make the bike feel a little more dirtbikey?

 

[EricV]

Removing the grips w/o F'ing them up. Start with compressed air. Blow with a fine tip nozzle into/under the grip and see if it will loosen and allow you to pull it off. If they were aggressively glued on, this won't happen.

Next step, CAREFULLY use a long, thin screwdriver to work under the grip and work your way around the end of the grip to break the adhesive loose, then start going deeper and working it around the grip to break it loose. Don't get too carried away prying against the grip because the element makes it less flexible than a standard grip.

Then return to the compressed air nozzle and it will help inflate the grip slightly and often allows it to pull over w/o much effort. I try to block the inside end with my hand or a helper's hand to allow the air to balloon under the grip a bit, which helps.

Re-installing the grips - Use some hairspray for lube and when it dries, it will act as a mild adhesive the keep them from rotating w/o the need for safety wiring the grips. Often there is enough residual glue and tension that it's not an issue anyway.

When you buy factory heated grips to install yourself, the throttle side comes on a throttle tube. Nice, unless you're a dumbass and let it get knocked off the work bench and it breaks the throttle cable tab.... I had to remove the non-heated grip and remove the heated grip from their prospective throttle tubes, then re-install the heated grip on the old throttle tube. Did OK, still works!

In your case, swapping bars, you won't need to take the throttle side heated grip off, just remove the throttle tube from the bars. You'll only have to work the clutch side off carefully. Which is definitely the easier side! I just use the air nozzle technique to install the grip too, no adhesive or lube needed and it didn't move around despite never having glue on it.

Tip: Lube the heated grip wire on the throttle tube where it moves in and out of the housing when you re-install it. Some white lithium grease or similar works fine. That helps avoid breaking the wires with throttle movements. (and is part of the factory procedure)

Hope that helps.

 

[Wrathchild]

Kick ass, thanks so much, that's pretty much what I expected but with a lot more tips to help

I think I am going to get some DRZ400SM take off Renthal Fatbars off ebay.

 

[EricV]

Consider width and sweep as well as height when you look at bars. The Yamaha factory bars have a funky sweep that many don't care for, but changing that will have some impact on cable length. AltRider has a nice video on a mod for more cable freedom. They sell a kit for $5, but have the vid there to show people what to do. Nice that they shared, the 'kit' probably doesn't sell much. Watch the video, good info to have in your head when you're working with bar ideas.

 

[Wrathchild]

I would think a straighter bar would make the cable length less of a problem?

 

[EricV]

Possibly, but consider rotation and your angles. I have 2" ROX risers and have the bars rotated back some, still OK with the stock lines. Ride On ADV makes longer lines, if needed. Most hydraulic hose shops can make up longer lines too, though a custom one off set may cost more than the Ride On ADV price. Mock things up and play with it before you go for a ride, eh?