How To: Cycle the ABS Pump

eram310

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Minneapolis
Does doing this eliminate the need to cycle the ABS pump? I had my dealer change my brake fluid when they were replacing the pads and they probably didn't cycle the ABS pump if the service manual doesn't mention it.
I just bled the clutch , front and rear brakes. The service manual specifically tells you to cycle the ABS and flush again. I did it, but didn't find it necessary for me. Below is a picture I took after cycling the ABS and bleeding the brakes. I tested the brake fluid before and after and the concentration of water in the brake fluid was the same. Under 1%.
Before the first flush the color was much darker and the concentration was at 3%.

20200403_161957_resized.jpg.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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I just performed this service yesterday and yes... kill switch needs to be in the “run” position to activate the ABS purge.
I just completed this today on my ‘15 and the pump cycled fine with the kill switch in the OFF position. Front brake lever pulses first then the rear pedal and the pump motor continues to run for a bit. Took 10-15 seconds before it stopped. I kept the brakes applied for the whole cycle. I was surprised how noisy the process is! In the garage at least, the brakes feel nice and firm. Purged the clutch while I was at it too. That reservoir is ridiculously small. Besides that, fluid tends to squirt up out of it when releasing the lever. You have to rest the kid in place to avoid that, making it hard to monitor the level. Two bleed cycles and it sucked air! Took a bunch of additional work, topping up after every cycle to get the air back out. PITA!


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tntmo

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I wonder if it's different on the gen 1 and 2. I made a video on YouTube when I performed this procedure, pretty sure the kill switch had to be on.
Yes, surprisingly loud!
 

WJBertrand

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I watched a video on YouTube, dunno if it was yours or not, are you Tom? Anyway in that video they were doing a Gen1, which requires pressing the starter button with the kill switch off, at least that’s how they did it. The Gen2 like mine, has an integrated starter/kill switch, so you can’t push the starter or it’ll turn the kill switch back on. I just held both brakes, jumper in place, kill off, and switched on the key. The cycle immediately ran.


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B

ballisticexchris

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Yes Jeff, I learned from bleeding my KTM and Beta clutches how easy it is to run the MC dry. Glad you got the air worked out of it. I've actually had to remove the slave and tap the crap out of it to remove stuck air bubbles.
 

RCinNC

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I made up a little kit for the ABS cycling maintenance task and keep it under my seat. I'm making it part of my regular maintenance, rather than depending on my previous "trigger it on a gravel road when the opportunity presents itself" method.

The jumper wire is one of those cheapie test leads they sell on amazon. I just cut it and spliced it so it would be smaller. The tips of the alligator clips are pretty small, so they fit into the openings on the modular plug, and they grip tight enough to stay in place.

And because my memory ain't what it once was, I made up a cheat sheet with the instructions on how to cycle the pump, plus some photos of where to attach the lead. The cheat sheet folds up and is stored in the plastic envelope with the test leads.

I've attached a PDF of the cheat sheet, in case anyone wants to print it and use it. My bike is a 2014 model, and these instructions apply to it; I presume that later models use the same method, but I don't guarantee it.

Photo of the cheat sheet:


And the kit:



Since I'm guaranteed to have the seat off multiple times a year, seeing the kit under there will be a reminder of "hey, do this task", and with the tool and the instructions right there in front of me, I won't have to put it off, even if I'm nowhere near my garage.
 

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Kruzzin5

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I made up a little kit for the ABS cycling maintenance task and keep it under my seat. I'm making it part of my regular maintenance, rather than depending on my previous "trigger it on a gravel road when the opportunity presents itself" method.

The jumper wire is one of those cheapie test leads they sell on amazon. I just cut it and spliced it so it would be smaller. The tips of the alligator clips are pretty small, so they fit into the openings on the modular plug, and they grip tight enough to stay in place.

And because my memory ain't what it once was, I made up a cheat sheet with the instructions on how to cycle the pump, plus some photos of where to attach the lead. The cheat sheet folds up and is stored in the plastic envelope with the test leads.

I've attached a PDF of the cheat sheet, in case anyone wants to print it and use it. My bike is a 2014 model, and these instructions apply to it; I presume that later models use the same method, but I don't guarantee it.

Photo of the cheat sheet:


And the kit:



Since I'm guaranteed to have the seat off multiple times a year, seeing the kit under there will be a reminder of "hey, do this task", and with the tool and the instructions right there in front of me, I won't have to put it off, even if I'm nowhere near my garage.
Very nice! Thanks.
 

MFP

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Since I'm guaranteed to have the seat off multiple times a year, seeing the kit under there will be a reminder of "hey, do this task", and with the tool and the instructions right there in front of me, I won't have to put it off, even if I'm nowhere near my garage.
Any chance you would put together a few of these kits and sell them on this forum?
 

RCinNC

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Probably not, MFP; I already have too many projects going at one time LOL.

You could put one together for far less than it would cost to buy it from me. Here's a link to the test leads I bought from Amazon:

You don't have to shorten the wire; I just did it to make it a smaller package. If you want, I could email you a better PDF copy of the cheat sheet that has better photos (the one I posted was a scan of the actual cheat sheet I keep on the bike).

The bag is just a regular old 3" x 5" ziploc bag. I buy them from Amazon to sort out all my mechanical hardware, but any old freezer bag would do the trick.
 

MFP

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Probably not, MFP; I already have too many projects going at one time LOL.
I figured as much but I gave it a shot anyway.... :cool:
I think it was your packaging that got me.... ;)
I assume that this ABS pump cycling procedure would work on a GEN1/'13, correct?
If so let me know and I will take you up on your offer to email me the better PDF.
Thanks for sure!
 

RCinNC

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I don't know if the 2013 shares the same procedure, MFP. At the beginning of this thread, the OP describes a procedure that is slightly different than the one I've used (his doesn't mention putting the sidestand down, or putting the bike in gear). In his signature line the OP indicates that he owns a 2012 Super Tenere, so at the least, there appears to be a difference in the procedure between a 2012 and a 2014. I suspect your procedure for a 2013 is probably the same as the OP for this thread, but I can't confirm.
 

bimota

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here is my jumper, a friend made them up, you can see in the picture the second one made with the red wire , but mine is the other one under neath it left on the bike with black electrical tape around it , so seat off and plug it in its always there
IMG_20211117_135902316.jpg
 

Quaap

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Nice DIY solution, I like that!

However, since I discovered that the OEM Yamaha cable only costs a few bucks... I ordered one a the dealer. The number is 90890-03149 and only costs 6-7 euro (should be more or less the same in dollars).
 

GrahamD

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First Off, thanks for all the info guys,

Needed to do brakes badly, because I haven't been able to ride for a while due to inflamed foot / achilles tendons that take forever to heal.

Short story is the brakes were WAAAY overdue for a bleed.

Anyway, Something I noticed that I would be grateful if people would try.

My S10 is a Gen 1 with Ze GERMAN Ate ABS pump. First Edition Australian 2010 model.

Bike on the Centre Stand, jumper installed as per previous posts. Confirm ABS light doing the slow blink. Turn ignition off.

Side stand up / down doesn't matter, in neutral / in gear doesn't matter, Kill switch either position doesn't matter

Put a small amount of pressure like just the weight of your leg on the back brake.

Turn on ignition.

Pump cycles.

Both rear and front brakes will kick back.

Can anyone else verify this works for them?

Couldn't find anything with the lots of searching showing the above method.

Also Ze German ATe Info for any other Gen 1 Aussie bikes still running..

Yamaha 23P-85930-00 ATE Part# 10.0214-5017.4


Sumitomo – Part No. 23-85930-00 | 23P8593000
Sumitomo – Part No. 28.5610-1112.3 | 28561011123
ATE – Part No. 10.0961-7901.3 | 10096179013
ATE – Part No. 10.0618-3970.1 | 10061839701
ATE – Part No. 10.0214-5017.4 | 10021450174 <---- Sticker on ABS my ABS pump matches this.
 
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