How far will it go? How much does it hold?

tomatocity

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jimmy z said:
Just don't do that and park your bike in the sun after filling,your extra gas will be on the ground.
Like Checkwrecks I have punched holes in the top of the fill tube. Definitely helps when topping off the tank. Twice I have left my 2015 in the sun after filling up and had problems keeping it running for the first few minutes. Note to self... remember to put the jacket over the tank.
 

Checkswrecks

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I generally don't fill and then park the bike, or if I do then it's parked overnight and cools off. btw - Most of the heat is coming from the engine.


And while it does help to get more in for long trips, I generally don't need to fill much past the bottom of the fill tube for three days (220 miles) of daily commuting. The real reason I punched mine is that when filling it doesn't spit when the fuel level reaches the fill tube.
 

nico_yyz

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a very unscientific test/result:

i traveled from montreal to toronto (all highway).

I kept my speed at a constant 107km/hr (66.6mph).

I finally stopped for gas after 400km (249 miles), and filled my tank with 19.522 liters (5.16 gallons)of fuel.

Since the tank is rated at 23 liters, i still had space for another 3.5 liters.

I feel confident I could push the bike to 450km if im easy on the throttle.
 

RicoChet

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nico_yyz said:
a very unscientific test/result:

i traveled from montreal to toronto (all highway).

I kept my speed at a constant 107km/hr (66.6mph).

I finally stopped for gas after 400km (249 miles), and filled my tank with 19.522 liters (5.16 gallons)of fuel.

Since the tank is rated at 23 liters, i still had space for another 3.5 liters.

I feel confident I could push the bike to 450km if im easy on the throttle.
That's very impressive! I've been testing the bike out for city/commuting mileage and so far the farthest I got was 350KM in the city before I chickend out and had to refill. still had almost 7 litres to put in.

I bet you that if you were going at 80KPH you could easily get to 450, the difference in wind resistance and fuel economy is quite surprising with that little difference in speed.
 

Sierra1

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Checkswrecks said:
The real reason I punched mine is that when filling it doesn't spit when the fuel level reaches the fill tube.

Very annoying! Too bad there is not a re-flash for the fuel nozzle for smoother fuel delivery. :D
 

mebgardner

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tomatocity said:
Like Checkwrecks I have punched holes in the top of the fill tube. Definitely helps when topping off the tank. Twice I have left my 2015 in the sun after filling up and had problems keeping it running for the first few minutes. Note to self... remember to put the jacket over the tank.
I went looking at the filler tube, to determine where this vent hole should be positioned.

I don't see where to put it. I had the gas cap and hinge assembly removed, with 6 screws, an easy job.

Also, there appears to be a vent hole at the top of the tank already. It appears on my model as an orange rubber grommet, just inside the flip-up gas cap, at the hinge assembly. When the gas cap is closed, that grommet applies a pressure seal that surrounds a small hole in the flip up cap, through the key assembly, to vent the tank.

When the cap is flipped open, the orange grommet provides an air vent for the top of the tank, although I do not know what is on the other side, inside the tank. There could be a "straw", I suppose.

Anyway, apparently the common wisdom is to open another vent hole, but I could not determine where to place it.

Any ideas, please?
 

snakebitten

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Pretty sure they are talking about punching a hole in the "sleeve" portion of the filler neck that protrudes into the tank a couple of inches from the top.
It impedes us from filling the tank to the top because it thwarts the displacement of air in the tank with additional fuel.
By punching a hole as near the top of the sleeve as possible, air can exit that hole as fuel fills the tank above the bottom of the sleeve.

Make sense?
 

tomatocity

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snakebitten said:
Pretty sure they are talking about punching a hole in the "sleeve" portion of the filler neck that protrudes into the tank a couple of inches from the top.
It impedes us from filling the tank to the top because it thwarts the displacement of air in the tank with additional fuel.
By punching a hole as near the top of the sleeve as possible, air can exit that hole as fuel fills the tank above the bottom of the sleeve.

Make sense?
What snakebitten said.

Not the backside of the tube though the front. Use a long punch.

I don't know how to post photos or I would.
 

Don in Lodi

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Yep, I punched two holes, 10 and 2 o'clock. And yep, there are two small pipes down through the tank, one for over flow and the other for tank venting.
 

Sierra1

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I guess I'll just fill up more often. Because I definitely don't have the 'nads to punch a couple of holes in my gas tank. ???
 

Checkswrecks

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Tip for those who DO want to punch a hole. Make sure to put something hard on top of the painted tank surface. That way, if the hammer slips off the punch you won't have a big dent in the pretty paint.
 

mebgardner

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OK, Thanks, got it. Overflow and venting holes not enough to get job done, so extra holes it is, then.

Makes me wonder, Checks, how you know about the "hard thing on tank paint surface" tip?

Doh!
 

Checkswrecks

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I use a 4" x 4" piece of floor tile and have hit it pretty hard. It'd suck to hit the tank.
 

mebgardner

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Yeah, Hmmmm.

Let's see here, hmmmm, place punch at angle into cap hole. Tank is steel, punch is steel, possibility of punch slipping and generating a spark... Punch is steel, hammer head is steel, chance of generating a spark on hammer strike. Gas fumes at mouth of gas cap hole.

Hmmm. You fellows really want access to that extra space, huh? I think I'll just live with it, the way it is, or until I have an empty tank, and have it removed from the cycle.
 

snakebitten

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I've still never done this to my Tenere after 6 years. Although admittedly, I have thought about it many times while experiencing the circumstances that resulted in me squeeeeeezing more fuel in.

However, Yamaha provides the same exact "feature" on the SCR950 and that bike has FAR less range. I WILL punch a hole in it at some point. :)
 

mebgardner

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To assist with this thread...

I have a "stock" 2016 cycle, with a PCFC controller. My purpose for buying the PCFC was to smooth the abrupt, "snatchy" throttle, at low throttle settings.

I've flashed the "stock" map from DynoJet into it (it did not come programmed with it).

I'm pretty unhappy with the MPG I'm getting with that stock map, but I like the smooth throttle result after 2 weeks of use: ~35 MPG.

I'm currently modifying this stock map, to see if I can have both better MPG, and smooth throttle at low settings.

So far, as of this morning, I have a map that retains the smooth throttle at low % throttle opening setting. So far, so good!
 

nico_yyz

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mebgardner said:
Yeah, Hmmmm.

Let's see here, hmmmm, place punch at angle into cap hole. Tank is steel, punch is steel, possibility of punch slipping and generating a spark... Punch is steel, hammer head is steel, chance of generating a spark on hammer strike. Gas fumes at mouth of gas cap hole.

Hmmm. You fellows really want access to that extra space, huh? I think I'll just live with it, the way it is, or until I have an empty tank, and have it removed from the cycle.
use a brass punch. problem solved
 

Don in Lodi

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snakebitten said:
I've still never done this to my Tenere after 6 years. Although admittedly, I have thought about it many times while experiencing the circumstances that resulted in me squeeeeeezing more fuel in.

However, Yamaha provides the same exact "feature" on the SCR950 and that bike has FAR less range. I WILL punch a hole in it at some point. :)

My Royal Star had the same fill neck extension, different venting... and the same holes punched in it.
The hole poker needs to be what's called an awl or most ice picks will do, brass won't do.
Best to do it with a full tank. The least amount or air/vapor space the better.
 

Checkswrecks

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mebgardner said:
Yeah, Hmmmm.

Let's see here, hmmmm, place punch at angle into cap hole. Tank is steel, punch is steel, possibility of punch slipping and generating a spark... Punch is steel, hammer head is steel, chance of generating a spark on hammer strike. Gas fumes at mouth of gas cap hole.

Hmmm. You fellows really want access to that extra space, huh? I think I'll just live with it, the way it is, or until I have an empty tank, and have it removed from the cycle.

Theoretically you're right, but in reality I've punched my two Teneres, two FJRs, and others for other people with never a fire concern. Unless it's below freezing, the mixture in a gasoline tank is too rich to burn. Where the hammer strikes the punch about 6" away, is already far enough to be well vented and too lean. All this is if you even are able to glance off the punch and create a spark in the first place.


Of course you could also use a plastic hammer or piece of wood to strike the punch.
 
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