How do you remove a wheel with the tool kit?

[Mark R.]

I have been prepping my flat repair and tire dismount tools for on-bike carry, when I thought I would give a look at the tool kit. Well, I don't see any way the tool kit can be used for removing either wheel. Sort of silly to carry all kinds of flat repair stuff if I can't take off either wheel.

Seems I need some sort of combo wrench that will have a 19mm allen key on one end to unscrew the front axle, and an appropriate sized wrench for the rear axle nut. I already put allen wrenches in the tool kit that will fit the pinch bolts front and rear. Any suggestions for a tool to do this? I might just have to fab one up if I don't find one.

Also, anyone know the size of the rear axle nut?

Thanks.

Mark R.
Albuquerque

 

[becoyote]

It's tubeless, right?. You shouldn't have to take off the wheel to plug it.

 

[Mark R.]

It's tubeless, right?. You shouldn't have to take off the wheel to plug it.

Very true, but a cut might require a patch from behind. I'm not real concerned in most cases, but I get pretty far out by myself, so I want to be prepared. I just found it a bit curious that there were no tools for removing the wheel.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Search is your friend. See page 3 of this thread about the front wheel torques, tools, & 1/2" coupler nut:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1879.30


Here's for the rear:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5275.msg93249#msg93249


::003::

 

[Mark R.]

Thanks!!!

 

[racer]

Mark, you can use a sparkplug socket as a hex tool for the front axle. You'll have to fiind one with a 19mm hex on the drive end. Just insert the drive extension from the inside of the socket, then insert the hex into the axle.

 

[roy]

IMO a $14k motorcycle should have come with a proper tool kit. Pipe dream as I've never bought a Japanese product that came with a decent tool kit. Suzuki GSXRs have a weak tool kit as well and the 1000 is approaching the S10 cost level.

I own a few of those hex tools and pack one on a far off trip on the S10. Luckily I've never needed to use it.

 

[RED CAT]

1/2 inch Threaded rod coupling works great for the front axel. Perfect fit. Available at Hardware stores for $1.25. Just put a cresent wrench on it and turn. Easy to carry in any tool kit. Of course a cresent should always be carried. Haven't figured out what to carry for the rear axel nut besides a 11/8 socket. The wrench is too big and heavy.

 

[EricV]

In regards to removing the rear wheel with the factory tool kit, I've found it lacking in two tools. A 27mm wrench and an 8mm allen wrench. In terms of compact, what can I keep in on the bike fairly easily, I just bought a normal 8mm allen wrench, (long style), at a local industrial tool store. That takes care of the rear axle pinch bolt. For the 27mm nut, I picked up a Motion Pro Combo wrench. LINK These are aluminum tire spoons with a box wrench on one end. They are rated at 90 ft/lbs, so if you've got it about as tight as you can with the short wrench, it's good.

I was getting the Motion Pro stuff thru work at the time for really good prices, so bought one of the 10/12mm tire spoon wrenches too as well as the 3/8" socket adapter. This means I really can get the tire off the rim myself if I have to and the adapter does make a functional socket wrench, though I carry another too along with a few sockets for the common S10 sizes.

I had to do a tire change on the road and wanted to pull the rear wheel myself to reduce both the time and cost, and this worked great w/o issues. The one tool I would have gotten caught out not having, had I not checked this out before hand was the 8mm allen wrench for the rear axle pinch bolt. I would have expected that to be in the oem tool kit, but it's not.

I just use one of the steel step adapters for the 19mm, Works on the front and rear and moved over from the last bike. Handy for helping others too.

 

[Mark R.]

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to get the 1/2" rod coupler, and the Motion pro 27mm wrench / tire iron. With other allen keys and other little tools I have added already, I should be good to go.

 

[fredz43]

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to get the 1/2" rod coupler, and the Motion pro 27mm wrench / tire iron. With other allen keys and other little tools I have added already, I should be good to go.

Be sure to take something to measure the 1/2 inch coupler, as not all are 19 mm. I found that the ones sold at my local Ace Hardware and another local hardware store were a bit too small. I think someone said the ones sold at Lowes were ok.

 

[NittanyXT]

The ones at Lowes are incorrect, Home Depot has the correct one!

 

[Mark R.]

I got the coupler at Home Depot yesterday, and ground off a bit from one end so the 17mm wrench in the tool kit would work on it. Right after I ordered the Motion Pro 19mm wrench, I found these and ordered them also:

http://www.bestrestproducts.com/c-163-besthex-wrenches.aspx

I will send back one of the wrenches when I compare them.

Along with the coupler and 19mm wrench, a small set of allen keys gives me enough tools to remove a wheel while away from home. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

 

[tomatocity]

I have 19mm and 27mm axle nut wrenches and coupler. Plus a 19mm x 27mm wrench by Race Tools.

 

[GSteve]

Has anyone actually tried the to remove the rear wheel (90 ft-lbs) using this setup?

http://www.bestrestproducts.com/c-163-besthex-wrenches.aspx

 

[Mark R.]

Has anyone actually tried the to remove the rear wheel (90 ft-lbs) using this setup?

http://www.bestrestproducts.com/c-163-besthex-wrenches.aspx

When I get mine, I will try it, then report back.

 

[EricV]

When I get mine, I will try it, then report back.

I suspect it will be one of those, "well, you can, but it's a real chore". This is why I carry a full length combo wrench as well as the Motion Pro 27mm. It's nice to have that extra leverage. I know some riders that carry a short length of pipe with the Best Rest kit so they have a 'cheater bar' and extra leverage. They are KLR guys though, so no idea how much fun it is with the S10.

 

[RED CAT]

The rear axel nut doesn't have to be that tight. Snug is fine!

 

[markjenn]

The rear axel nut doesn't have to be that tight. Snug is fine!

90 is probably a little overkill, but you do want it to be pretty darn tight as it preloads all the inner bearing races making the entire assembly behave as a solid axle. There is a LOT of force happening on this assembly. I don't know what "snug" means in this application, but I'd want something at least 60 ft-lb or higher. Basically, if you don't have a torque wrench and you're using a relatively short lever (e.g., 10"), you want it about as tight as you can get it. If you want to be able to get it off with the tools you carry, a good approach is to get it as tight as you can with these tools.... then you know you can get it off with the same.

That Best Rest gizmo is pretty cool. But it requires carrying something to use as a lever and most of us don't carry tire irons on a tubeless tire bike.

- Mark

 

[scott123007]

This thread is almost getting comical. Too much time to overthink things when there is snow outside? Here is a reality check. Carry a mini compressor and some snot cords with the reamer and inserter, and call it a day. Easy peasy, and realistic.

The chances of getting a tubeless tire flat that cannot be fixed except by removing the tire, are remote at best. The chance of you having whatever it takes to be able to remove your wheel, break the bead, and repair whatever damage the tire had, roadside/trailside, are slim to none. At that point, it would be WAY easier to ride the bike WITH a flat, to find help, than to fix it.