Help, reversed batter polarity and now nothing

AEF

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As you might tell from the headline, I'm not a great wrencher. I was in the process of installing a new NOCO lithium battery to replace the YUASA that was in my '12 ST with 30K miles. Note I've only owned the bike for a few months so I don't know when the last battery replacement was, and suddenly the other morning it wouldn't start. Plenty of power to the lights but wouldn't turn over. Multimeter showed it at less than 12.6V so I bought the new battery, still not totally sure it's not the starter that's the problem.

Charged the new battery overnight inside on a plug-in charger and went out this morning to give it a go...was reading 13.4V on the multimeter so thought I was good to go. Because it has a different facing than the YUASA, and because I'm an idiot, I began connecting wrong and immediately saw a spark and what looked like a light surge through the bike. I removed the terminal connection immediately and had not yet screwed it down, just made the contact.

Suffice to say, once I got it all squared away, there was nothing, no power to the bike at all. Even tried it with the old battery to make sure it wasn't a battery issue. The Multimeter on the new battery still reading strong.

Could anyone let me know how/where I can check the fuses? I'm hoping that perhaps there's only one that's blown, but at this point, I'm at a loss.

Much thanks.
 

bimota

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here you read this this,ll sort it

rob
 

AEF

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Thanks all. Really appreciate the fast replies. I see most of the fuses in the two fuse boxes, but not the main 50 amp. Can you let me know where it's located? Sorry, don't have the manual to check. I assume the 7.5 fuel injection is with the other one.
 

pooh and xtine

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I had to replace the 7.5a electronic throttle valve mini blade fuse and the main fuse (the big red topped one on its own). Don’t buy a Yamaha OEM main fuse - they’re just 50a Japanese car main fuses available at auto parts stores for less than a tenth the cost.
 

Cycledude

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Sounds like the new battery has the posts in opposite positions to the old battery, are you sure you bought and received the correct battery ?
 

AEF

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Hey Rob. Thanks again for your help. I’ve now solved for the fuse issue. The fuel injection fuse seemed fine on the multimeter and looked ok but I put a spare in there anyway. I also replaced the main 50 amp which got everything turned on again. The new battery is registering 13.4 voltage unattached which should be enough to turn it over, but it’s still not happening. It’s not dead, and it’s not clicking, but it just isn’t firing quite enough to turn over. Think I should check the starter relay next, and if so I assume I should start with the two 30 amp fuses on the coupler. Thanks for any ideas. Really appreciate it!
here you are
View attachment 105522
 

AEF

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Jun 29, 2023
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Washington, DC
AEF.
Have you sorted it? Got the bike started now?
Not yet! See my recent note to bimota:
I’ve now solved for the fuse issue. The fuel injection fuse seemed fine on the multimeter and looked ok but I put a spare in there anyway. I also replaced the main 50 amp which got everything turned on again. The new battery is registering 13.4 voltage unattached which should be enough to turn it over, but it’s still not happening. It’s not dead, and it’s not clicking, but it just isn’t firing quite enough to turn over. Think I should check the starter relay next, and if so I assume I should start with the two 30 amp fuses on the coupler. Thanks for any ideas. Really appreciate it!
 
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