Hard start procedure when WOT fails

[gombul]

Apologies for starting a new thread on the hard start issue. I realise it's been covered to death already. However, about a year ago I'd printed out a list of procedures you could try when WOT didn't work. I've lost the list and my bike won't start. I just bought a new battery in desperation but still it just won't fire...

Does anyone know which thread I can find this list (I wish I could be more descriptive)? I really can't remember where I found it.

 

[TXTenere]

Apologies for starting a new thread on the hard start issue. I realise it's been covered to death already. However, about a year ago I'd printed out a list of procedures you could try when WOT didn't work. I've lost the list and my bike won't start. I just bought a new battery in desperation but still it just won't fire...

Does anyone know which thread I can find this list (I wish I could be more descriptive)? I really can't remember where I found it.

I don't have the list, but I do know another tactic that has worked was to pull the #4 fuse (fuel pump) and crank with it pulled. Crank to clear the fuel (engine flooded, hence the no start), and then replace the fuse, and attempt a start.

 

[Juan]

::026::

 

[itlives]

Thanks for that nugget!

I've had to use the WOT technique twice. Worked as advertised. I'll remember this advice - hopefully before I run the battery down. I do have an Anti-gravity battery just in case.

 

[ace50]

I've had to use the WOT technique twice. Worked as advertised. I'll remember this advice - hopefully before I run the battery down. I do have an Anti-gravity battery just in case.

Cool, does it float or make the whole bike float? ::015::

 

[racer1735]

The only time I've encountered the hard start issue, it took forever to get the thing going again. My remedy was a shot of quick-start (carb cleaner will do, too) down the snorkles. Not too much or you'll really flood it.

 

[Juan]

Anybody tried spraying a little insect/fly killer (like Sheltox or Pif Paf)? Just a one second spray shot near the air intake. In the old days that's how they used to start cars when normal start didn't work. I wonder if this works on the S10.

 

[gombul]

I don't have the list, but I do know another tactic that has worked was to pull the #4 fuse (fuel pump) and crank with it pulled. Crank to clear the fuel (engine flooded, hence the no start), and then replace the fuse, and attempt a start.

I tried removing #4 (10A EFI fuse) and cranking with throttle closed (yesterday), then again today with throttle open. Still nothing when I put it back and try to start.
I guess the next step is trailer it to the bike shop for a date with the yam diagnostics computer

 

[Juan]

I suspect it may be a simple fault which has been overlooked - like making sure that No. 4 fuse is not blown. I would suggest you check this first, then make sure the battery is fully charged (better still use jump leads on a car battery) and then give it WOT for 15 seconds, rest for 5 seconds, then WOT again for 15 seconds. Do not crank unless with WOT as this would make it worse. Important to have a good spark, so battery must be in top condition (or jump start). In another recent thread I explained that I had a hard start simply because I tried starting with a battery which wasn't used for some time and it didn't have enough juice to give a good spark. The next day, after 24 hours charging, the bike fired after 2 WOT cycles of 15 seconds each. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

 

[gombul]

Interestingly I attempted another EFI fuse out attempt on a fully charged battery and it finally fired. Just a big belch with no throttle - put fuse back in and attempted again. I had to do this about 3 times then it finally started. It's been gold ever since. Not with WOT though. Just glad this didn't happen in the scrub.

 

[Juan]

Glad you sorted out your problem. WOT is important when cranking with fuse in. With fuse out, just cranking with no WOT should be good enough I suppose, as the aim is to get rid of the excess fuel without pumping in more fuel.

 

[markjenn]

Glad you sorted out your problem. WOT is important when cranking with fuse in. With fuse out, just cranking with no WOT should be good enough I suppose, as the aim is to get rid of the excess fuel without pumping in more fuel.

I'd recommend WOT for both fuse in and out, as you're going to get more air through motor which purges fuel faster. And WOT should spin motor faster with less battery drain by lessening pumping losses. Win/win.

Someone might point out that WOT doesn't necessarily mean completely open throttle plates with the fly-by-wire throttle, but WOT is bound to get more air through the motor than the idle-stop throttle plate position.

If you've flooded this bike, the throttle should be HARD against the WOT stop anytime the starter button is pushed.

- Mark

 

[Checkswrecks]

Gombol's post has prompted a couple of actions.


#1. The hard start thread now is a sticky in the Power sub-area:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=2149.0


#2. The thread got so long that a summary of what's worked has been added to the first post in the above thread.


If you've had a hard start, it is suggested that you save the text to your phone or print it out.


Thanks Gombol

 

[Juan]

Diplomatically we're being told not to post any more on this subject.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Diplomatically we're being told not to post any more on this subject.

Not at all - Post away! Being the middle of summer the forum is kinda slow, what with everybody out and active.


I just saw the potential for improvement from what Gombol posted. Heck I'm just moving from a 2012 which never hard started to a new 2014, so I may need that summary myself.

 

[Juan]

Not at all - Post away! Being the middle of summer the forum is kinda slow, what with everybody out and active.


I just saw the potential for improvement from what Gombol posted. Heck I'm just moving from a 2012 which never hard started to a new 2014, so I may need that summary myself.

I was just joking because the topic has been fully exhausted with identical suggestions all the way. I have the 2013 model and had only one hard start which was entirely my fault (posted on another thread). I do take care to continue cranking until I'm sure the engine fired up - hence the avoidance of hard starts.

I congratulate you on your upgrading to 2014 (gen 2). Are you getting the ES model?

 

[Checkswrecks]

I was just joking because the topic has been fully exhausted with identical suggestions all the way. I have the 2013 model and had only one hard start which was entirely my fault (posted on another thread). I do take care to continue cranking until I'm sure the engine fired up - hence the avoidance of hard starts.

I congratulate you on your upgrading to 2014 (gen 2). Are you getting the ES model?

Thanks - I bought a non-ES from another member. I've been fine with the stock suspension and with what I got the 14 for, could put in a nice aftermarket set if I get the itch.