Front wheel bearing tutorial and the lack of...

Don in Lodi

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scott123007 said:
The one and only way I know of removing wheel bearings is by getting the spacer moved to the side enough to get some purchase on the inner race of the bearing. A long drift is what works for me. I make sure it is at least 1/4" in diameter and perfectly flat at the contact area. I hear ya Fred with the brass rod, but I try to use something much harder as I don't want it to round off because of the minimal amount of contact area there is to work with. Regardless, there is no way you should re-use a wheel bearing after removing it by its inner race. As far as the blind hole puller is concerned, as Dogdaze says, it doesn't work. They work well for removing bearings like some that support transmission shafts, that you can't access from the other side of the case, but with the spacer in between the wheel bearings, they are useless.
I think the idea is that they grip the inner race by shear tension, not by reaching around the inside where the spacer interferes. Thus 'blind hole'; no access to backside. On the tool picture I've got, I see no lip. If there is one it's very tiny. In that case the inner surface of the bearing race is rounded at the edges, a very tiny lip would be able to catch in that even in a blind hole. I'll let you know when the set gets here.
 

greg the pole

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Don in Lodi said:
I think the idea is that they grip the inner race by shear tension, not by reaching around the inside where the spacer interferes. Thus 'blind hole'; no access to backside. On the tool picture I've got, I see no lip. If there is one it's very tiny. In that case the inner surface of the bearing race is rounded at the edges, a very tiny lip would be able to catch in that even in a blind hole. I'll let you know when the set gets here.
remember Don
::006::
 

racer1735

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fredz43 said:
Same here, Don. Never heard of one and in looking at the pics, I think I understand the theory of operation. Evidently the "collett" grips the bearing ID and you pull it out with the slide hammer?
Correct. As you screw in the slide hammer, the collet spreads and grips the inside of the bearing. You can generally find a blind-hole puller as part of the 'lend' tools at most auto parts stores. But, those are generally beat up, plus you don't have the proud feeling of having said kit in one of the 13 drawers of your tool chest!

$41 at Amazon? I keep cursing that Harbor Freight never puts theirs on sale and it sits at $75. Yet their standard bearing puller is generally on sale for $55. Even with the 20% off coupon, the blind hole puller is $5 more expensive. That hurts on principal!
 

scott123007

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Don in Lodi said:
I think the idea is that they grip the inner race by shear tension, not by reaching around the inside where the spacer interferes. Thus 'blind hole'; no access to backside.


Negatory, my friend. There is a lip that goes through the inner race. When the collet is tightened it catches the inside leading edge of the inner race. The reference to "blind hole" means that the bearing itself cannot be accessed from the other side, not that the inner race is being blocked on the other side.
 

racer1735

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And you aren't necessarily 'saving' the bearing. You are just getting it out for replacement. If you are lucky, you could re-grease and re-insert. The spacer doesn't matter as you aren't accessing the back/inside face of the bearing.
 

EricV

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You BFH guys comparing your rods... ???

This is the tool to use. This one fits the FJR bearing size, but I don't know about the Super Ten, as at 95k miles, I have yet to replace them. I should do it soon! The Feej front failed at 1497xx, (I bitched at Yamaha, should have made it to 150k, at least!).

There is no lip on the tool. You insert it in one side, run the rod thru from the other side and wedge it in the slot. It takes a good whack to seat it, and something on the opposite side, or on the floor. Now, heat is your friend. And don't be all delicate with it either. Propane torch and move it around until you swear the paint/powder coating is going to catch on fire, then start whacking the end of the rod and the bearing will come out nicely.




I think someone posted about this tool on the FJR forum and I bought one at that time, but can't recall now what it is correctly called or the vendor I got it from. :( Sorry. But there is a correct tool for this job and Yamahas are perhaps a little harder to do the old school beat it with a punch due to the previously mentioned spacer.

Hey! Found my receipts - Got it from www.pitposse.com Listed as Wheel Bearing Remover Set 22mm remover and separate part, Large Rod. It was cheaper for me to just order the rod and size puller I needed than buy the entire set at $59. $9.95 for the 22mm part, $11.95 for the large rod. Here is a link to the actual tool as a set - http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html Scroll down to see replacement parts and select what you desire.

Hope that helps! :)
 

Don in Lodi

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That is soo cool! Now just have to get a very good measurement of the axle diameter. Looks like it works similar to the blind hole puller, except with a hammer driven wedge from the back side rather than a screw driven wedge and a slide hammer from the outside. Said it before, love this place. ::008::
 

EricV

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A quick poke at the internet shows that the Super Tenere uses the same 22mm size as the FJR for the front wheel. Cool, I have the right tool for the job still. 8)

FWIW, when I ordered the large rod and the 22mm end piece, it cost me $30 with shipping.
 

scott123007

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Wow Eric, I've never seen that before, (although that is not a blind hole bearing puller) and it looks like it would work great. Just curious though, I see the slot in the top of the tool, but it doesn't look like it is very deep. How does it wedge the tool open?

IDK, between having to buy a complete set of these things to have whatever size you need, then heat the bearing up, and probably freeze the tool just to get it set just right, I think I'll just do it with a drift like I've done it hundreds of times before, with never a problem.
 

EricV

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scott123007 said:
Wow Eric, I've never seen that before, (although that is not a blind hole bearing puller) and it looks like it would work great. Just curious though, I see the slot in the top of the tool, but it doesn't look like it is very deep. How does it wedge the tool open?

IDK, between having to buy a complete set of these things to have whatever size you need, then heat the bearing up, and probably freeze the tool just to get it set just right, I think I'll just do it with a drift like I've done it hundreds of times before, with never a problem.
The slotted part of the tool is exactly the right size to fit into the ID of the bearing. It won't work if it's not the correct size. Pound the rod so the wedge tip goes into the slot and it doesn't need to spread the tool very much to be securely into the tool, but remember that the slot is on the inside, the rod going thru from the opposite side, so as you pound the rod, it's pushing the bearing out, but maintaining that spreading force as you do so. Heat is important for any bearing removal to make things easier, though many times you can do it w/o heat. I never used to use heat in the past, but the tolerances on some modern motorcycle wheels makes it a real bear to get an old bearing out w/o heat. You don't need to freeze the tool. I've frozen bushings and bearings prior to insertion, using dry ice, but that was industrial applications with different tolerances that required a tighter press fit. The heat is just expanding the wheel a bit faster than the steel bearing to ease removal.

As I said before, I just ordered the large rod and 22mm size end piece. The other sizes seemed to be ones I wouldn't use, and I don't need it very often. A $30 investment to have the right tool for the job seemed acceptable for me. And you've removed old wheel bearings from a modern Yamaha hundreds of times? ;) That spacer inside does not give you as much room to work with. You can move it aside, but until you get some room, you'll be fighting it every time you shift position with the drift. Just bookmark the link for the tool and when you get around to doing your wheel, remember it. You might change your mind after some colorful language in the garage.

I gave up on the wife's BMW and drove 140 miles to a dealer to have them remove the old bearing. Different size than the Yamaha and I beat on it pretty good with the drift, but it wouldn't budge w/o heat. They heated it up a lot more than I dared to. My attempts had been with a commercial heat gun, they used the propane torch and really got it hot. Might not be as necessary with the Yamaha?
 

scott123007

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Eric, I can't tell you how much I appreciate you posting about that puller! I've been pounding these fuckers out with a drift for over forty years and never knew about these "pushers". (Just shows the complacency of "creature of habit", and how restricting that can be at any level)

This is a set I found on Ebay which I have ordered. Even though I realize the size I would need for the S-10 front wheel is not in it, it looks like I will have most of the other bearings covered. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Wheel-Bearing-Remover-Separator-Extractor-Puller-Tool-Honda-Yamaha-/201383767128?hash=item2ee3686c58&vxp=mtr
 

EricV

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The best thing about this forum for me is that we share our various knowledge from so many different backgrounds. What I don't know, someone else might work with daily.

I admit I'm a tool geek. As a machinist, its my nature.
 

SilverBullet

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EricV said:
...Hey! Found my receipts - Got it from www.pitposse.com Listed as Wheel Bearing Remover Set 22mm remover and separate part, Large Rod. It was cheaper for me to just order the rod and size puller I needed than buy the entire set at $59. $9.95 for the 22mm part, $11.95 for the large rod. Here is a link to the actual tool as a set - http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html Scroll down to see replacement parts and select what you desire...
From website link a 22mm puller is not included in the set so that still needs to be ordered irregardless.

_
 

Don in Lodi

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scott123007 said:
Eric, I can't tell you how much I appreciate you posting about that puller! I've been pounding these smurfers out with a drift for over forty years and never knew about these "pushers". (Just shows the complacency of "creature of habit", and how restricting that can be at any level)

This is a set I found on Ebay which I have ordered. Even though I realize the size I would need for the S-10 front wheel is not in it, it looks like I will have most of the other bearings covered. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Wheel-Bearing-Remover-Separator-Extractor-Puller-Tool-Honda-Yamaha-/201383767128?hash=item2ee3686c58&vxp=mtr
LOL, exact same tool and picture as the Pitposse site, better price. Did you find the 22mm on Ebay anywhere? The accessory menu on the Pitposse site shows it. A few key strokes, a few days, and it's a done deal. :)
 

greg the pole

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Don in Lodi said:
LOL, exact same tool and picture as the Pitposse site, better price. Did you find the 22mm on Ebay anywhere? The accessory menu on the Pitposse site shows it. A few key strokes, a few days, and it's a done deal. :)
Question is, can you just buy the 22mm from pitposse and the rod? or the whole kit plus the 22mm?
 

EricV

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greg the pole said:
Question is, can you just buy the 22mm from pitposse and the rod? or the whole kit plus the 22mm?
Yes, you just order the two pieces you need under the spare parts heading farther down the page. That's exactly what I did.
 

Don in Lodi

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Strange, there doesn't seem to be a center spacer in that set up. If you run that hollow bolt that far in on ours you'd catch the spacer... which wouldn't be a problem really, just drive the both of them out at once.
 

Ron15S10

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Have that same tool and works perfect for the Feejer and should for the Ten. Also learned about this tool on the FJR site. Not expensive and worth the money.
 

Tuna209

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At this last tire change on my S10 I wanted to check them for smoothness. I was surprise at the resistance to turn. It was considerable more than the rear wheel (x4 in difficulty). They felt smooth when spinning, just not a comfortable feeling in my mind being so hard to spin. Do they need to be replaced?
 
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