This is something going on in California too, so far it seems to be a local city/county thing. I think these laws are backed by the repair shops and some politicians have jumped on it under the guise of environmental concerns. I think it's complete BS and if it comes to my city, I plan to roundly ignore them. I'll just have to work with the garage door closed. I have an air compressor, pneumatic wrenches, a hydraulic Quick Jack lift and a manual tire changer, among other specialized automotive tools, that would be outlawed. My neighbors won't fink on my because I've helped do or have completely done plenty of repairs and trouble shooting on all of their cars too.Also ,slightly off topic, could you elaborate on the law about not being able to work on your own vehicle. Sounds so unbelievable to us do it yourselfers..thanks
Bouncing, hopping, slow speed coast with no engine input... My bet is on a tire, prolly the rear. The forks shouldn't give any random output without some sort of input. My weird front fork hop/wiggle was caused by a slipped belt on a rear tire, last 5-10% of the tire life. I don't use that brand any more.
I've told my mechanic to keep a look out for anyone swapping out their old usable tyres that fits our bike, so that I can have it fixed for a quick ride and rule out tyres.Says he changed tires, if he got a bad tire after everything he has already done that would really be a kick in the teeth.
Bigger question :Bouncing, hopping, slow speed coast with no engine input... My bet is on a tire, prolly the rear. The forks shouldn't give any random output without some sort of input. My weird front fork hop/wiggle was caused by a slipped belt on a rear tire, last 5-10% of the tire life. I don't use that brand any more.
I'm with you Jeff. Household tools!! LOL What are those.This is something going on in California too, so far it seems to be a local city/county thing. I think these laws are backed by the repair shops and some politicians have jumped on it under the guise of environmental concerns. I think it's complete BS and if it comes to my city, I plan to roundly ignore them. I'll just have to work with the garage door closed. I have an air compressor, pneumatic wrenches, a hydraulic Quick Jack lift and a manual tire changer, among other specialized automotive tools, that would be outlawed. My neighbors won't fink on my because I've helped do or have completely done plenty of repairs and trouble shooting on all of their cars too.
County in California makes it almost illegal to repair your car at home
Sacramento County outlaws restricts amateur mechanics to using only household toolsdriving.ca
How do we check front to rear wheel alignment on our s10?
String line.
FYI,Maybe there is a slight misalignment between the axle/wheel/disk assembly to the brake axis. I get it on the front wheel if it wasn't aligned correctly. The disks heats up more than normal if the alignment is slightly off and takes a hit on fuel consumption. I dun fully understand the rear axle on how it is mounted but if it anywhere the same as the front axle, then it could be misalignment (slight).
The front axle is screwed tight onto the left fork while the right fork, it simply floats or slides over the axle. The 2 clamp bolts on the right fork simply locks the floating axle and keeps its position. After a tire change, I did noticed there was more drag and the disk heats up more. After some research, it was recommended to do the following to get the alignment of the disks to the brake caliper:
1. Loosen Fender bolts, 2 Clamp bolts.
2. Bike on center stand.
3. Get on the bike and push down on the handle bar while holding the brake lever a few times.
4. While keeping the brake lever held down, tighten up the 2 clamp bolts.
5. Then release the front brakes, and then tighten up the fender bolts.
if this still doesn't do well, then add in loosening up the lower triple bolts (4X) in Step 1. And in Step 4, add in tightening up the lower triple bolts after the 2 clamp bolts. I gained 1.7 km/l by just doing this.
Now, for the rear, if it works on a floating axle over the right side swing arm, where the clamp bolt is, then I suppose loosening up the clamp bolt, then hold the rear brake in lock position, tap on the rear tires a few times to loosen up, then tighten up the lock bolts would get the alignment back in. (Bike on double stand).
Another potential source could be sticking piston on the rear caliper. Have the piston removed, the cylinder walls inspected and cleaned then lubed with brake fluid. Then replaced with new fluids. I haven't done on any of my brake calipers but did it on the clutch slave. Cleaning it and lube improves the clutch effort on the left hand.
The even bigger question is how do you adjust it?Dropped by the store that did my forks, asked to be explained what went down with the fork rebuild. Was verbally told without any pictorial evidence,
-all seals changed.
-copper bushings still looks good
-5w oil used
-165mm air gap at the top
-unable to remember quantity of oil put in.
Correct me if im wrong, but FSM says 150mm air gap yea for stock rebuild?
165mm = more air gap aka less oil?
Would less oil cause stiction between fork legs and bring about the binding of the forks and eventually the hops/bounce at operational speed?
I'm about to order a fork repair kit from off-the-road.
Includes seals, clips, bushings.
OFF-THE-ROAD | Front fork repair kit Yamaha XT-1200Z Super Tenere | Online Webshop
Front fork repair kit Yamaha XT-1200Z Super Tenere - Complete front fork repair and overhaul set for Yamaha XT1200Z and XT1200ZE Super Tenere While repairing or maintenance a front fork you should notwww.off-the-road.de
While I'm at it, would you guys recommend changing out the springs too?
I get my sag spot on at 57mm with 3 lines of preload up front. But would have to max preload with a pax.
If yes, anyone out there have a table for reference, or a reliable spring calculator they've used before for purchases?
Bigger question :
How do we check front to rear wheel alignment on our s10? And what contributes to it? Yea.. I wanna rule this out too, while I don't think it contributes to the hop/bounce, since imma be touching on my forks and tyres, and prolly get the spokes trued again, I might as well check on these, and if they are bad, I wanna know how to realign my wheels.
On the Super Tenere you have to do it on the front end. The shaft is not like a chain driven bike where you can adjust the wheel for perfect alignment. It's one of the many disadvantages of the shaft drive system.The even bigger question is how do you adjust it?
That was my attempt at humor...On the Super Tenere you have to do it on the front end. The shaft is not like a chain driven bike where you can adjust the wheel for perfect alignment. It's one of the many disadvantages of the shaft drive system.
Just something to think about the front bounce that I was dealing with was with a Mitas E07 also. I have had two on there that gave me trouble. One I am pretty sure one was due to being stored incorrectly. the other I can't see any thing wrong with the tire but it just would not roll with out that dreaded hop to it. On the same token I have had Mitas E07 that were nothing but perfect and such a joy to ride on. I have never had an issue with the rear tires. One thing I have noticed as I have mentioned some where in this thread is my bike doesn't like heavy tires on the front. I have had issues with Shinko's bouncing too. that was after interstate runs of 2000 to 3000 miles. for the most part I could rebalance them and get that mostly out. By the way no weights fell off from the first balance either. Just something to think about and add a bit more of confusion in the mix. haha.Issue update :
Decided to change tyres.
Took out the Mitas Terraforce-R, installed Shinko e705 (which was half the price of the mitas btw)
Problem is ALMOST solved.
No more pronounced bounce at both slow or high speed, only occasionally. I'd say problem solved 90%.
Am waiting for new fork service kit on its way via shipping. Once arrived, let's see if a fork reservice solves this.
BTW, above suggested solution (both tyres & fork reservice) was adviced by a local mechanic recommended by many. Whom when shared about the problem via call, without asking what tyres I was running, could identify I was on mitas.
This post serves as an update of the issue for any that are following,
And also an enquiry to all if im just an unlucky Puck or mitas are giving issues.
Seems like when I talked to other shops, it's a common consensus amongst them that mitas creates this bounce/hop issue to many of their customers too.
What a bummer. Could have mitigated so much spending with just a tyre swap lols I'm sucha joke.
Funny enough, the new shinko e705 has a more off road thread than the mitas Terraforce-R.Good for you that it looks like you’re problems will be over soon. Now you mention it: when my much more aggressive E07+ was new I could feel the tire rolling from one knob to another. It created a slight hop when going real slow. Just like a full-knobby dirtbike on the street. Once the edges of the knobs were worn a bit it was gone. I never saw it as a problem, just part of a new “aggressive” tire. I love my E07+.
Now you can go and enjoy the riding, have fun!
Stefan
Hahaha I ain't blaming any manufacturer in any way.Just something to think about the front bounce that I was dealing with was with a Mitas E07 also. I have had two on there that gave me trouble. One I am pretty sure one was due to being stored incorrectly. the other I can't see any thing wrong with the tire but it just would not roll with out that dreaded hop to it. On the same token I have had Mitas E07 that were nothing but perfect and such a joy to ride on. I have never had an issue with the rear tires. One thing I have noticed as I have mentioned some where in this thread is my bike doesn't like heavy tires on the front. I have had issues with Shinko's bouncing too. that was after interstate runs of 2000 to 3000 miles. for the most part I could rebalance them and get that mostly out. By the way no weights fell off from the first balance either. Just something to think about and add a bit more of confusion in the mix. haha.
Motorcycle tyres.I am going to admit right now that I didn't read everyone's post, but one way or the other, your problem is the TIRES. You never mentioned what kind of tires you installed but some just do that. BICYCLES don't have suspension, and they don't have that problem. If a lot of your riding is at the speed you are complaining about, and is a big annoyance to you, install some Michelin Pilot 5's, make sure they are balanced (although that has nothing to do with low speed) and come back to us.