Or put a spacer between the pads, Duct tape maybe. Since it will not be spinning, just about anything that will not blow away to keep the piston for bottoming out.jbrown said:
Disabling the ABS is one of the first things I did and had no effect (see my first post). I pulled the ABS fuse which incidentally also disables the speedo and odometer. I am going to try and pound the rotor into submission in the morning. If it is not 100% perfect after I will order a new OEM rotor.Derekj said:
Pumping doesn't really recover the brakes as you cannot pump fast enough. If you were rolling very slow you could do it some. As soon as the wheel spins and the bad spot on rotor passes thru the caliper then the brakes are gone again. Think how quick one revolution of the front wheel must be at speed. Probably tenths of a second only.dcstrom said:Ok so I was right!you DO have a very visible warp. Still surprised that it would cause you to lose ALL braking though - I've ridden bikes with warped discs and the worst thing is feeling a pulsing at the lever. It's hard to imagine the warp being so bad that when the disc pushes the pad back, the pressure at the lever doesn't recover almost instantaneously. And you said that when you lose the brakes, even when you pump it, it doesn't recover?How could that be anything to do with the rotor? I hope it is the rotor, means it's a easy fix, but I still have my doubts...
Bike has been sitting and as I stated it is not safe to ride it with rear brake only. By neccessity only I had to ride it home from MS as I was stranded and had no choice. I rode accordingly. If rotor can be straightened and brake recovers it is not a half ass'd fix it will be 100% safe and allow me to ride the bike until the new rotor arrives. I'll know this afternoon and post my results.offcamber said:
^ this ^Don in Lodi said:
Someone gave you some bad info if you think that is the whole point of floating disks. ???Don in Lodi said:
Please elaborate. I'm always looking to fill in blank spaces. I know they help with heat management, but in this scenario warp was the problem.scott123007 said:
Don in Lodi said:
I thought that sounded familar. I had Googled it and read the following link two days ago.scott123007 said:Full floating rotors, were designed to reduce the tendency towards thermal stress induced distortion due to uneven thermal expansion under load. Prior to the introduction (by Brembo) of this design, brake rotors in the motorcycle industry were simply round discs bolted solidly to the wheel. You may remember if you've been around long enough, the rotors on the early CB750 and Z-1's were nearly 7mm thick and weighed accordingly. This was in effort to keep them from warping. Now days, the only road bikes coming through with solid mount (front) brakes are the Cruisers and budget bikes.
True full-floaters move on the carriers, this allows them to self-center in the caliper for reduced brake drag and "float" unimpeded for unrestricted expansion and contraction during repeated thermal cycling. The only serious down side is a bit of rattle that reminds you these are indeed full-floaters.
They do perform as advertised in improving overall braking performance while significantly reducing that distortion tendency.
Yeah, I was being lazy. Sometimes I say things in a way that leads to different interpretations, so when I saw that summation, I copy and pasted it but took out what I felt was not the meat of the subject.SilverBullet said:
Realized I never posted back after replacing the rotor so for complete closure on this thread that did solve my issue. I hate finding a problem thread without a definitive ending.SilverBullet said: