Front and rear Spring Upgrades for heavier riders?

[moespeeds]

I went through a bunch of threads here, but allot of it seems to be old information. I have a 2014 ST without the fancy suspension. I'm 240 lbs before I've drunk any beer. This bike will end up in AZ, riding about 60% pavement and 40% hard packed dirt and gravel. Lot's of traveling will be with a 110 lb passenger. I already know from 10 years of road racing that Japanese bikes don't come sprung for vikings, and I knew at least a spring change would be in order. I'm resisting the idea of spending big bucks on a complete aftermarket shock change, especially because this bike will only be for occasional use as I live in NJ and this will be in AZ for just a few trips a year.

I saw some guys using Eibach 8x2.5" 900 lb springs and a custom spacer. Is this still the latest? I can machine a perch/spacer no problem, I came across a spacer height of .39"?

For the front, it's way undersprung. What's the solution here? Didn't see much info on this. Guys who have re-sprung the front, did you also have them re-valved, or just drop in the springs?

It seems I've gone and stripped out the pre-load adjuster on the rear, probably because my dumb ass was cranking it while sitting on the bike. I'll pull it apart tomorrow, hopefully I can remedy that and the shock isn't toast.

Any advice here is greatly appreciated

 

[mbabc]

A good riding pal of mine who has as he described as "gravitational" issues went with a Wilbers adjustable shock on his 2012. Had it set for his weight and also had Wilbers springs sent to him for a local guy to install in his forks. New seals etc of course.

Best money he's spent except for his reflash he says.

 

[steve68steve]

I dropped Sonic Springs in the front with the stock valving. I don't feel a dramatic handling difference, but I'll assume I'm less able to bottom them out.


I did a Penske shock and spring on the back for $900-ish dollars. I looked into doing the spring only and didn't get a clear answer.


To my mind a stiffer spring takes compression damping off the table - the higher-rate spring itself is resisting compression more, so the shock's valving may not even come into play. I guess rebound is the opposite: a higher-rate spring is providing a lot more rebound force for the stock shock to try and damp. At some point it would be overwhelmed and melt down. I wasn't able to find any info to get a sense of where those limits are, but given the range in travel, setup, and quality of stock m/c suspensions, I wouldn't be against trying it as a first step. Springs are cheap.


Also, if you're riding pretty level terrain (as opposed to hitting logs and boulders at speed or rock climbing), I'm sure a springs-only change would be safe enough to at least evaluate. Then maybe try dialing compression damping all the way down and rebound all the way up.


FULL DISCLOSURE: I don't know WTF I'm talking about.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I too am gravitationally challenged. I went to a 900# rear spring and spacer and had Super Plush Suspension in San Francisco rebuild the forks. The bike handles very nice.
Be careful pulling the nob off the shock, there are a couple ball bearings that will fall out. The alloy nob that is available comes with new bearings. LOL, yes, adjustment should be made while on the centerstand.

 

[hawk281]

racetech has a direct replacement spring, about a hundred dollars. you just need a spring tool and your good. if the bike is a es, look at the manual for directions to "zero " out the shock before changing the spring. a lot of threads discussing it. ::021::

 

[jack d]

Your preload knob has probably enlarged the rectangular hole in the plastic knob that does not match the shape of the shaft that it turns when adjusting. It will need to be replaced,
http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/eagle-manufacturing-preload-adjustment-knob-for-yamaha-xt1200z-super-tenere-11-16

 

[DonB]

I am your same weight. Had my shock worked over by Norwest and now it works like it should! Money very well spent! Bike stays in the right geometry, and the damping adjustment now works like it should. No need to go Wilburs, Ohlins, or other. I am happy with the fork as it is very adjustable. I am 100% road though. You would need springs in the front for offroad. Contact Terry @ Norwest and get a quote. You may surprised. Not a shill just a satisfied customer.

 

[worncog]

I am your same weight. Had my shock worked over by Norwest and now it works like it should! Money very well spent! Bike stays in the right geometry, and the damping adjustment now works like it should. No need to go Wilburs, Ohlins, or other. I am happy with the fork as it is very adjustable. I am 100% road though. You would need springs in the front for offroad. Contact Terry @ Norwest and get a quote. You may surprised. Not a shill just a satisfied customer.

Terry at Norwest worked my shock a while back and I have been very pleased with it. He will revalve to your needs, install a nitrogen port, and respring to your needs. Performs well on rocky fire roads to twisties to hammering slab all day at 80mph. Give him a ring

And it is the 0800.225.xxxx spring, a 2.25" vice 2.5".

 

[Davidr8]

Reading this thread with interest. I'm not yet an owner but I'm interested in how the S10 is sprung for solo and two-up.
I commute solo and ride two up on weekends.
If the bike is sprung for two up won't it be oversprung when I'm solo?


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[Don in Lodi]

Reading this thread with interest. I'm not yet an owner but I'm interested in how the S10 is sprung for solo and two-up.
I commute solo and ride two up on weekends.
If the bike is sprung for two up won't it be oversprung when I'm solo?


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Buy an ES, adjustment at the poke of a button.

 

[Davidr8]

Buy an ES, adjustment at the poke of a button.

Yes, I understand that's how the ES works, I'm just getting the impression that stock the bike is under sprung.


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[NorWest]

Reading this thread with interest. I'm not yet an owner but I'm interested in how the S10 is sprung for solo and two-up.
I commute solo and ride two up on weekends.
If the bike is sprung for two up won't it be oversprung when I'm solo?

Hey David,

Regardless if it a ES version or non ES version the spring would still be a compromise when setting up for a two up scenario vs solo. As would the valving also as the ES version only controls the clickers and not the actual shim stack, Think of the ES version as an electronic screwdriver when it comes to the damping adjustments you are able to obtain from it.

What I try to do when confronted with your exact scenario is discuss with the solo rider exactly what they are going to carry and what percentage of time that load will be placed on the bike. We would go into preferences for stiffness of the suspension and if the bike will be used dual purpose or just street or dirt. We would then arrive at a compromise in regards to spring selection so you would have a sportier feel when riding solo and a plusher feel when riding two up. A stiffer spring with less preload will be initially softer then a softer spring with more preload so it would be sprung a little heavy but we would back the preload off so you don't get a jarring ride. When you add the passenger and/or luggage then you crank up the preload and you would now have the stiffer spring with more preload so it could handle the added weight.

As far as damping the tuner can play with different shim stack styles and various shims to arrive at a combination that would offer decent performance from either riding scenario.

Hope I gave you some clarity on how we would arrive at a solution to your issue.

Terry

 

[Davidr8]

I am your same weight. Had my shock worked over by Norwest and now it works like it should! Money very well spent! Bike stays in the right geometry, and the damping adjustment now works like it should. No need to go Wilburs, Ohlins, or other. I am happy with the fork as it is very adjustable. I am 100% road though. You would need springs in the front for offroad. Contact Terry @ Norwest and get a quote. You may surprised. Not a shill just a satisfied customer.

Hey Don, did you end up with a higher rate spring from Norwest?


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[NorWest]

Hey Don, did you end up with a higher rate spring from Norwest?


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Don is not one of our customers as I think he said he used Super Plush Suspension which is closer to him or his preference.

 

[Don in Lodi]

LOL, two Dons. ::26::

 

[Davidr8]

Don is not one of our customers as I think he said he used Super Plush Suspension which is closer to him or his preference.

Ahh yes, was DonB I was hoping would respond.

 

[NorWest]

Ahh yes, was DonB I was hoping would respond.

Oooops wrong Don, My apologies.

Yes he got a higher rate spring 1000 lb to be exact.

 

[moespeeds]

Thank you for all the input guys. I purchased a 900 in/lb Eibach, and I'll probably just make the spacer as I have a lathe, unless I can find one to purchase really cheap. What I'm going to do for the front is bring it up to Washington Cycle here in NJ, as he used to tune the suspension on my race bikes and I know and trust them, and they are local.

Norwest thank you very much for your input.

What are guys using to compress these heavy springs? I purchased a strut compressor but it doesn't fit. I see the Tusk model, but it looks lightweight. Anyone have direct experience compressing a 900# spring?

 

[Don in Lodi]

My buddy did his and mine with a home built compressor. Slicker than snot.

 

[worncog]

Thank you for all the input guys. I purchased a 900 in/lb Eibach, and I'll probably just make the spacer as I have a lathe, unless I can find one to purchase really cheap. What I'm going to do for the front is bring it up to Washington Cycle here in NJ, as he used to tune the suspension on my race bikes and I know and trust them, and they are local.

Norwest thank you very much for your input.

What are guys using to compress these heavy springs? I purchased a strut compressor but it doesn't fit. I see the Tusk model, but it looks lightweight. Anyone have direct experience compressing a 900# spring?

Washington Cycle is a great shop. They are my go-to shop for 'on the road' tire swaps for any New England runs. They have performed short notice tire installs and also ordered tires for me by phone to install the next day. Don't remember the owner's name, but he helped me out in a pinch and it deserves mentioning.

Bear in mind, the spring swap alone will help with the sag issue, but will not improve the shock performance. Just sayin.

I've used the Tusk model on a few springs and it does a good job. Be sure to keep the threads well lubricated and keep the load well balanced.