Fork seal replacement

Mad_Matt

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Nov 15, 2023
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It's a messy job, but it's not overly hard. A few specialized tools are needed to make the job easier. Find a digital copy of the Service Manual. I think I got mine from one of the many Super Tenere Facebook groups.

Off the top of my head, I had to buy the following to augment my existing tools:
- ES-specific fork spring compressor
- Tusk Fork Seal Driver 43mm
- Damper rod tool
- Fork oil level tool

There is a really good thread on this site where I posted all my questions before doing the job, including what additional parts one should replace when rebuilding the forks.
 

sgt bilco

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Oct 31, 2016
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Worcester UK
It's a messy job, but it's not overly hard. A few specialized tools are needed to make the job easier. Find a digital copy of the Service Manual. I think I got mine from one of the many Super Tenere Facebook groups.

Off the top of my head, I had to buy the following to augment my existing tools:
- ES-specific fork spring compressor
- Tusk Fork Seal Driver 43mm
- Damper rod tool
- Fork oil level tool

There is a really good thread on this site where I posted all my questions before doing the job, including what additional parts one should replace when rebuilding the forks.
Thanks Matt. I'll search for that thread.
 

WJBertrand

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All of the ES bits are integral to the fork caps, so no complicated mechanisms or anything to worry about. I would set the suspension to the reference position (one rider, no luggage) just to be cautious. Other than the special spring compressor nothing special because of the ES.
 

~TABASCO~

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No not hard. The top ‘nut’ is something like 43 mm I believe. I’ll have to go double check.
Make sure to change out the guides if your in there. (IMOP)
 

sgt bilco

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All of the ES bits are integral to the fork caps, so no complicated mechanisms or anything to worry about. I would set the suspension to the reference position (one rider, no luggage) just to be cautious. Other than the special spring compressor nothing special because of the ES.
Thanks
 

Boris

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No, but I will have :)
I use the Kriega ones on my bike, they seem to do a good job. Cheap and five mins to fit.

FWIW, I had my forks serviced at a suspension specialist in Northants, for just over £200. New seals, bushes and oil, along with anything else in there that required replacing. Was turned around in a week, but I did drop off and collect.

All seems good since done.
 

RCinNC

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When you say that you have a fork seal gone, to you mean that it has literally fallen apart, or is it just leaking? Before you spend the time and money to replace a seal, you could try using a fork seal cleaner to sweep between the fork seal and the fork tube to remove any debris that might be stuck in there. Even a tiny bit of sand can cause a fork seal to leak, and removing it can stop the leak.

This is what the tool looks like:



There are other brands, but they're all pretty much the same; a very thin piece of plastic that slips between the seal and the tube. There are videos on Youtube on how to use the tool. It's a cheap troubleshooting method that, if it works, can save you a lot of aggravation.

If the seals do need replaced, are you planning on doing it yourself? Do you have a service manual? I've replaced seals and pistons on my 2014 standard model, and it's not a highly technical process, but there are a lot of steps involved. You'll also need some specialized tools, like a fork spring compressor and a seal driver.

My service manual has the steps for the fork removal and seal replacement for a 2014-2015 ES model, but I'm pretty sure all ES models have the same procedure. I also have some step by step instructions I made up for myself on how to remove the forks from my standard bike and disassemble/reassemble them. I also have some information I compiled from posts on this site about how to change fork seals, and a couple Super Tenere specific videos on how to change seals on a standard model. The videos are probably too big to attach in here, but If you plan on doing this yourself and you want any of the written information, I can post it here.
 

Boris

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When you say that you have a fork seal gone, to you mean that it has literally fallen apart, or is it just leaking? Before you spend the time and money to replace a seal, you could try using a fork seal cleaner to sweep between the fork seal and the fork tube to remove any debris that might be stuck in there. Even a tiny bit of sand can cause a fork seal to leak, and removing it can stop the leak.

This is what the tool looks like:


There are other brands, but they're all pretty much the same; a very thin piece of plastic that slips between the seal and the tube. There are videos on Youtube on how to use the tool. It's a cheap troubleshooting method that, if it works, can save you a lot of aggravation.
I’ve previously used the seal cleaner method and it can work. I used a small piece of old camera film that I had.
 

RCinNC

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I used to suggest the film negative idea too, and then I realized that pretty much anyone under the age of forty probably has never seen a film negative and doesn't have any of it around their house. Yet another thing to remind me that I'm old.
 

sgt bilco

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When you say that you have a fork seal gone, to you mean that it has literally fallen apart, or is it just leaking? Before you spend the time and money to replace a seal, you could try using a fork seal cleaner to sweep between the fork seal and the fork tube to remove any debris that might be stuck in there. Even a tiny bit of sand can cause a fork seal to leak, and removing it can stop the leak.

This is what the tool looks like:



There are other brands, but they're all pretty much the same; a very thin piece of plastic that slips between the seal and the tube. There are videos on Youtube on how to use the tool. It's a cheap troubleshooting method that, if it works, can save you a lot of aggravation.

If the seals do need replaced, are you planning on doing it yourself? Do you have a service manual? I've replaced seals and pistons on my 2014 standard model, and it's not a highly technical process, but there are a lot of steps involved. You'll also need some specialized tools, like a fork spring compressor and a seal driver.

My service manual has the steps for the fork removal and seal replacement for a 2014-2015 ES model, but I'm pretty sure all ES models have the same procedure. I also have some step by step instructions I made up for myself on how to remove the forks from my standard bike and disassemble/reassemble them. I also have some information I compiled from posts on this site about how to change fork seals, and a couple Super Tenere specific videos on how to change seals on a standard model. The videos are probably too big to attach in here, but If you plan on doing this yourself and you want any of the written information, I can post it here.
Tried the cleaner and to no avail. I'll get my buddy to do it who owns a bike shop and has everything he needs as it looks a bit too much for my garage.

Many thanks for your help/
 

~TABASCO~

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RCinNC just mentioned the seal cleaner.... I agree with what he mentioned........

I will add, with my experience with the Tenere. Ive worked on MANY sets of Tenere forks. IMOP, "most" of the time when a seal is leaking it has something to do with the material coming off the guides. People have tried to argue with me about this, and everyone has there own experiences... Im not referencing any other bike on the planet other than the Yamaha Super Tenere 1200... (I personally dont see guide wear on other bikes like I do the Tenere. Ive also changed a million fork seals on other bikes that are leaking and most of the time it's NOT the guides that has caused this weep/leak.... From my experience, this is a "Tenere" situation) So I simply pass on my experience on to others here on the forum...... (If anyone takes there forks apart, WASH / clean all the crap at the bottom of the legs out.. Try your best to clean all the garbage out and clean all the insides off / out.... The valve stack works under tight tolerances, to have it work the best it can and properly, the fluid needs to be clean. )

Any how.. I sound like a broken record when I suggest guides and seals together...... This is only because Ive seen it on this bike, over and over and over...... Why do it twice, when someone could do it once? Ive posted pictures in the past with that material peeling or delaminating from the guid(s).... It simply falls down and gets in the seal.. Many times this is a weep or leak....

Someone mentioned a seal protector... (fork covers - seal protectors - shock sox). If not kept clean all the time these can 'sand' your fork legs and make them leak like a mad man. They will protect the seal until you 'sand' the sh%% out of the lower stanchion tube and ruin the lower leg.... I ran these for a bit until I started working with Ohlins. We had some in-depth conversation about the use of these items.... Maybe these folks don't know what they are talking about - who knows............. LOL .. They suggested I take mine off immediately for 50 reasons they "proved" to me...

Run whatever makes ya feel good..... Do what ya want...... Im just passing on info........
 

Cycledude

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Yes it’s very important to keep Shock Sox’s clean otherwise forget about using them.

i always replace seals and bushings at the same time and prefer to do both forks at the same time rather than tear everything apart again in a couple weeks.
 

Paul466

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Littleton, Colorado
Yes it’s very important to keep Shock Sox’s clean otherwise forget about using them.

i always replace seals and bushings at the same time and prefer to do both forks at the same time rather than tear everything apart again in a couple weeks.
I always thought that shock sox would trap grit between the slider and the sock and cause premature wear to the slider?
 

nd4spdbh

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Southern CA
Planning on doing some preventative maintenace on my S10 ES. Are the dust/oil seal and slider bushings the same as the non ES?
 

WJBertrand

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Planning on doing some preventative maintenace on my S10 ES. Are the dust/oil seal and slider bushings the same as the non ES?
Good question. It would be easy enough to cross check the part numbers at one of the on-line genuine parts sellers like Partzilla or similar.
 
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