Fit manual switch to radiator fan

tomatocity

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stutrump said:
Thanks folks. I know the fuse is ok so I'll check the sensor isn't loose or something and then I'll scratch my head again or try to fit a manual switch. Cheers
If you are going to get to the Temperature Sensor... take the time to test the Thermostat. You will need a new gasket. Remove the Thermostat Cover and Thermostat. Put the Thermostat and Thermometer in a pot of water. Heat the water and watch when the Thermostat fully opens and closes. Fully Open 183 F. Fully Closed 160 F. Replace the Thermostat if it does not open between 156 F and 163 F.

Ref: Service Manual page 6-5.
 

Dogdaze

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Would the bike over heat very quickly if the thermostat was not opening and not cool down if moving, as the cooler water would not be able to circulate? A faulty sender unit is likely, but would not hurt to check the thermostat.
 

Don in Lodi

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Like Greg mentioned, the temp sensor sends the signal to the ecu. Is the temp showing on the dash correctly? I haven't seen a post on what temp it has reached before being shut down. Since there doesn't look to be a fan specific switch in the coolant flow, the ecu should be what is triggering the fan. It's doubtful the ecu is capable of the amperage to run the fan, there is probably a relay in there to handle the amps. Since the fuse is said to be good, I seem to remember seeing two or three relays, one being the flasher relay.
 

trainman

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before diving into the guts of the bike:

there is a fan motor relay at least on the gen 1 bikes, under the right hand fairing, using a lamp go across the coil connections in the socket (relay removed), run the bike and see if the lamp picks up when the temp on the dash display hits the limit (105C on mine).

If it does its either the relay or the fan motor duff (put relay back and check for volts on the motor), if it doesn't its maybe the sensor but I would think this would affect your cockpit display too.

am assuming all the fuses are good!
 

stutrump

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Thanks again folks. Haven't had time to sort it yet. Temperature on the display seems to be working fine though. More soon. Cheers
 

WJBertrand

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I made a point to observe my cooling fan on-off behavior last night. With my Flash Tuned ECU, the fan comes on at exactly 205F and switches back off at exactly 195F, based on the instrument panel readings.
 

tomatocity

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WJBertrand said:
I made a point to observe my cooling fan on-off behavior last night. With my Flash Tuned ECU, the fan comes on at exactly 205F and switches back off at exactly 195F, based on the instrument panel readings.
Is this a AC Flash? So your fan cycles more often than the OEM setting.
 

stutrump

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Sorry for the delay in an update but here it is. Relays are all ok. Fan motor is ok. Didn't have time to check the temp sensor yet (use the bike every day for work BUT, I did fit a manual switch (thanks for your help on that Steve68Steve) so at least I can now cool the bike down. Thanks again folks
 

sudds

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Yes, I did. The fan burned out and fried the fuse, relay and the ECU. I installed a switch on the ground side of the relay, as the ECU doesn't send a signal to turn on the fan.

It works quite well, the fan is not required for high way use, but will turn it on once the temp goes + 190F. The bike seems to operate around 169F to 174F on the highway, and hotter off road or stop and go.

Wiring is easy, find a good ground source and place a switch between the ground source, and the ground side of the relay. 1/2 hour job at most.
 

stutrump

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Dear all.
I've had my manual fan switch for a while now but things seem to be getting worse. When in traffic now I have to leave the fan on constantly and it seems to have very little or almost no effect, with the red temp warning light coming on very often. Any ideas why the fan is having little or no effect?
Thanks in advance for any help.
 

Don in Lodi

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Is the fan actually moving air, is the blade still firmly attached to the motor? What's the air, if it's moving, feel like? Hot or room temperature? The air, if moving, should blow outboard. Coolant level, have you opened the radiator cap to take a peek? No bearing on engine temp really but an indicator, what's the level of your fluid in the surge tank? A few thoughts; an air pocket causing a blockage, not likely, our system is very vertical; water pump impeller, is it spinning, not sure how to diagnose that; and road debris, something packed in on the back side of the radiator, bird, plastic bag, hay...
 

stutrump

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Thanks both. I dont really notice the air 'moving'. Fan blades are fine and the fan spins in a clockwise direction. Surge tank is at correct level. Coolant is clean with no obvious blockages (I changed the coolant a few months ago and ran the hose pipe through the system to give it a good rinse out). I've no idea how to check if the water pump is working and I cant do diagnostics on my bike because of a broken console switch. No debris at back of radiator. Thanks again..any more ideas gratefully received!
 

Tenerester

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stutrump said:
Thanks both. I dont really notice the air 'moving'. Fan blades are fine and the fan spins in a clockwise direction. Surge tank is at correct level. Coolant is clean with no obvious blockages (I changed the coolant a few months ago and ran the hose pipe through the system to give it a good rinse out). I've no idea how to check if the water pump is working and I cant do diagnostics on my bike because of a broken console switch. No debris at back of radiator. Thanks again..any more ideas gratefully received!
Did you ensure there were no air bubbles in the system after you replaced coolant? This impacts the coolant circulation and the fan isn't sufficient to keep the temperature down. I had a similar issue and this is what I did...take the radiator cap off, start the bike and let the coolant overflow for a few seconds until you see no more bubbles. (Remember to have some rags in place for the spill.) Stop the engine, top up coolant, replace cap and start the bike again. The fan should kick in around 105c and bring the temp down to around 97-98c. Basically the temp should never rise above 105c when the bike is stationery. When moving fast the temp should stay between 75-80c. Just my 2 pence worth. It Worked for me. :)
 

stutrump

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Thanks again folks. Im hoping to have some time on Tuesday to investigate your various ideas. Just hope the water pump is still working! More soon!!
 

Don in Lodi

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You say you don't feel any air movement? But the fan is turning... a fan running at speed sounds like a siren of sorts, a definite howl is given off. With your bare hand over the outside grill, not even on the grill, you should be able to feel hot air being pushed out.
The reason I ask is I have seen enough electric fans spin their hubs out over the years. Yes, the fan turns, but it has no torque, it just sort of idles around. Looks ok at first glance, but zero volume.
 

stutrump

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Thanks Don. Fan is definitely spinning as it always has...with lots of volume. I guess Ive never placed my hand over it to feel the hot air but I will when im riding to work again tomorrow. Cheers
 

Don in Lodi

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Not sure you should keep commuting on a bike you can't control the temp on. This motor has zero provisions to air cool without a working cooling system.
 

stutrump

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Hi Don...I know...you're right. Sadly I have no choice...crazy I know and complicated but no choice. Have to work...money probs at the mo. Cant afford uk dealer prices so I need to fix myself and never seem to get the time. I tend to do between 12 & 15 hr days at work
 
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