Final Drive

[RIVA]

I discovered a very slight oil leak on the final drive on my ST. It is comming from Seal no. 2 in the photo. Has anyone changed this seal and id so any tips or tricks and what is involved. Thanks in advance

 

[NoMorBills]

You will need all the seals that say "NEW" I had mine done under extended service plan. Cost a little over $400 All Covered.

Thats what the shop replaced. You may be able to get by with just the one seal and O-ring but there is a smaller inner one they replaced also.

30,000 miles

 

[eemsreno]

That seal can just be popped out with a screwdriver and the new one pushed back in. i did this to mine about 40,000 miles ago.

 

[RIVA]

Thanks for the reply nomorbills. My main concern is when I remove the ring gear bearing housing, will I disturb the ring gear shim, and the ring gear thrust washer and the other associated parts and if I do will it be a straight reassembly or will the ringear to stopper bolt and the ringear backlash have to be re-adjusted.

 

[trikepilot]

Mines in the shop right now for just that reason. I should hear this week whether YES covers it.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=10272.msg201775#msg201775

Eemsreno - got any more details or insights on doing the fix yourself in case the Yammy dealer denies the repair under my YES plan?

 

[RIVA]

Bump ::002::

 

[Don in Lodi]

That seal can just be popped out with a screwdriver and the new one pushed back in. i did this to mine about 40,000 miles ago.

::008:: I have a tool made just for pulling cam and crank seals, it hooks around to the inside of the seal then levers it out. Cool gizmo.
Also; Punch the seal near the edge with a punch/ice pick, screw in a dry wall screw a thread or three, use a pair of side cutters to grip the screw and lever the seal out.
The seal is visible with the wheel off, no further disassembly should be required. It's nice if you have a socket big enough and deep enough to be able to use it as a seal driver.

 

[RIVA]

::008::
The seal is visible with the wheel off, no further disassembly should be required. It's nice if you have a socket big enough and deep enough to be able to use it as a seal driver.

::008:: ::008:: Thanks Don in Lodi. That's exactly what I wanted to know. I thought that I would have to take off the ring gear bearing housing. Looks now like a 30 minute job. ::008::

 

[Philistine]

Mine was leaking so I took it apart cleaned the seal up put it back together, its been fine for about a year now

 

[Curt]

Mine was leaking so I took it apart cleaned the seal up put it back together, its been fine for about a year now

That was going to be my question -- is the seal damaged or does it just have grit under it?

I.e., is it like leaky fork seals, which more often than not are easily fixed by running a Seal Mate underneath?

 

[Philistine]

That was going to be my question -- is the seal damaged or does it just have grit under it?

I.e., is it like leaky fork seals, which more often than not are easily fixed by running a Seal Mate underneath?

I went through some very soupy mud and must have got a little grit under the seal and that was all it took to start to weep, I thought it was worth a try to clean it up because its not that big of a job to pull it apart