Engine died suddenly and fault code 60 shows on dash

[Nimbus]

So I appear to be stuck at work. I just pulled back into my parking lot and upon downshifting into 1st the engine just shut off and it showed a 60 on the dash-not in diagnostic mode, just shows 60. I shut it off, did the WOT cranking thing and no love. It was running fine and then just quit. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

[Dogdaze]

Maybe..................

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=11690.0

 

[RicoChet]

That's crazy! I hope you manage to get it started soon! I'll be following this thread. Does the engine crank at all?

 

[WJBertrand]

I got that code when I inadvertently swapped the #4 coil (counting left to right) connector with the throttle servo connector after a valve clearance check. Obviously a swapped connector cannot be your issue as the bike was running. Check the throttle servo connector isn't loose or damaged. Check the harness near the connector for damage as well. If the bike has ever had the throttle bodies out, such as for a valve clearance check, maybe you'll be lucky and the connector was just not clicked all the way on and it has just backed out and lost contact. If you're not so lucky you may have a failed throttle servo. At least YES will cover that I expect.

 

[Nimbus]

Brief update...I just went out and took the side panel off and checked some contacts/fuses, etc. My bike has had a very very irritating intermittent problem in which it suddenly runs at low rpms (800) or high rpms (3500). Sometimes it dies, but usually it happens after it has been warmed up. Typically it occurs in the cold/damp. Today it just stopped. Anyway, I did the ol' WOT thing and it didn't pop. Went in, worked for 3 hrs. It was stone cold and again WOT no pop. Turned key with kill on and WOT and then it immediately sprang to life at 5500 (I think that's fantastic for the engine BTW).

Anyway, it kept trying to die as soon as I let off the throttle. I got it hot and it stabilized just slightly and I rubbed some wires and it went away. Clearly a short somewhere. Anyway, I'm hoping it'll start again and get me home. I'll tear into it this weekend.

 

[snakebitten]

Definitely mirrors the symptoms of a wiring harness issue.

We had a thread a couple of years back it seems. I can't remember the solution but grabbing wires and moving them increase\diminish the engine revs.
I wouldn't wish that on anybody! Certainly not while away from home.

Mine would get delegated to the barn with the task of painstakingly checking every wire in the bundle that seemed to contain the culprit.
Good luck.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Assuming that you don't have an IR thermometer to check the headers, you might consider looking at the plugs to see if you have a coil breaking down.

 

[Nimbus]

I've wondered about the coil issue. I have two that have leaked for years. Every time I replace a plug, it's a nasty corroded white/rusty mess. The IR thermometer is a great idea. Next time it does it, I'll check to see if both cylinders are firing at lower revs.

 

[WJBertrand]

I don't think you would get a code 60, which is for the throttle solenoid, if it were a coil problem.


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[Nimbus]

So I spent some time yesterday and found the same problem I've had in the past, I think.... Anyway, I took off the side cover and pulled out the big white connector that leads to the ground and that hides just above/beside the battery. I started the bike and started moving around wires. I grabbed the wire coming into either side of the white connector and it was getting hot quickly. I pulled the connection apart and cleaned it quite well with a pick, some WD-40, some compressed air, and then some Deoxit. Put it back together and it seemed fine (not getting hot).

The last time my bike was having this sort of trouble (increasingly consistent low idle/dying or high idle) the same thing was happening with the wires going into that white connector getting very hot. When I pulled that connector apart then, all sorts of sand came out of it. So I cleaned it as best I could and shot some dielectric grease into it. Problems were cured, but apparently it needs maintenance.

 

[mebgardner]

Since Nimbus has not been back on to report, I'm assuming this got solved for him.

Does he own a Gen1, or Gen2? I have not heard of the "leaky coil" bit, before now. Electrical problems are not new to cycles, so when someone discusses one, I become interested. Especially about possible high resistance buildup in high amperage circuits (hot wires solved with cleaning). That there is fire territory...

 

[Nimbus]

The problem seems to come and go. As I mentioned, I cleaned the connection well and it seems to be OK at present. I agree about the potential fire risk and I know someone else on the forum had the same connector melt and take out a bunch of other stuff. I'm not amused with the bike (gen 1, 2014) but the resale is so bad that I can't justify selling it. I like riding it well enough, but this issue is a significant problem.

 

[2daMax]

The only reason it is very hot with the connector is that there is electrical arching over some air gap. Dielectric grease will cure it until it dries out or wash out. The better fix is to inspect the connectors to see where the looseness is and try to make it tight.

 

[mebgardner]

The only reason it is very hot with the connector is that there is electrical arching over some air gap. Dielectric grease will cure it until it dries out or wash out. The better fix is to inspect the connectors to see where the looseness is and try to make it tight.

Yes, agreed.

Or, remove the offending connector? Just cut it out, and wirenut / splice it up. Assuming the wire is the correct gauge to carry the current load. I'm assuming that's true, but I have not looked at this yet. I think the assumption will hold, since it's not a "hot" wire under "normal" operating conditions.