BlueRidgeBob
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- Apr 24, 2011
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Anybody have any more specific recommendations for the break in other than "avoiding prolonged operation" at certain RPM.
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks,
Bob
Engine Break In
- Thread starter BlueRidgeBob
- Start date
I think Motoman's makes the most sense, but I may not change the oil, filter and FD until I get it home 600+ miles later unless do it at auto parts store if stop for the night. BTW, he says heat cycles are a myth so who knows for sure.
doctorj
doctorj
Koinz
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I think the 600 miles oil change makes a lot of sense. It gets the fine metalic particles out of the engine. Newer engines break-in fairly quickly and have pretty tight tolerances.
I pretty much drive it normally with occasional bursts of fun along the way. YMMV. ;D
I pretty much drive it normally with occasional bursts of fun along the way. YMMV. ;D
keeponriding
Don't want a pickle Just wanna ride my motorsikle
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I'm at 700 miles..going for an oil change (primary and rear end) Monday.
First 500 miles, I vary engine and bike speed, keeping revs below 4k...second 500, I keep revs below 5k. Even keeping the engine below 5k, the bike moves.
First 500 miles, I vary engine and bike speed, keeping revs below 4k...second 500, I keep revs below 5k. Even keeping the engine below 5k, the bike moves.
screw that crap I dropped the crank case, drive at 117. then left for a IBA SS2K Put 2065 miles on in about 36 hours!
Just sent the paper work in need to be certified I also coompleted the BBgold ( 1500 miles in less than 24 hours ).
It takes a while for the IBA to post the results and certifications. I've done the SS1K and BB1500 on My KLR.
I don't think it's passaible to the BBG on a KLR you just can't pass like you can on the S-10 My IBA #34226
It takes a while for the IBA to post the results and certifications. I've done the SS1K and BB1500 on My KLR.
I don't think it's passaible to the BBG on a KLR you just can't pass like you can on the S-10 My IBA #34226
I don't know about on a big 4-stroke motor, but on a 2-stroke race bike, heat cycles are do bomb for break in.
doctorj said:
Guys, don't shoot the messenger. Just read and if don't agree, do it anyway you want. More than likely I'll wait til I get home 600 mi. later to do oil, filter and FD changes so won't follow it strictly.bloke said:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
doctorj
Rynn Storm
New Member
Read the owner manual, http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2012/2012_SuperTenere_LIT-11626-25-09_1934.pdf, it doesn't conflict with motorman.doctorj said:
On page 6-3, "During this period, prolonged full-throttle operation or...."
Thus a short full-throttle (or almost full) is within spec, just don't overheat the engine. Changing the oil early at 20 miles surely not going to hurt anything. I have a spot when I get on and off the highway in a short distance and loop around on local roads to cycle again. Great place to put some load and engine braking a few times and back on a local (ie, slow) road to keep the engine (and more importantly the transaxle) cool. And of course I mix it up (ie, no constant gear/revs). Did this on a previous bike and will repeat on my ST (once I get it
)
I just changed my oil for the first time at 411 miles. For the hell of it I bought a magnet and put it on the mesh top of my oil drain container and let the stream of oil pour directly on the magnet. Did this for both drain plugs and the oil filter. There was almost nothing to speak of stuck to the magnet. I felt good about that!
Once the little one falls to sleep I am going back out to the garage to do the same with the final drive and see what that looks like!
Once the little one falls to sleep I am going back out to the garage to do the same with the final drive and see what that looks like!
Changed oil at 400 miles now I'm gonna ride it like I stole it. ;D
As is the norm for me and what I do, I just picked up my bike from its first service. At 660 miles in two days it was a drag to not ride it more but, hey, like I said it's the way I do it for my break in routine. I do my version of break in and always have the dealer do first service.
I have to say that it was a noticeable difference in the smoothness of the the motor after this service. Tech said the throttle bodies were out a bit so I am sure that this is where the improvement came. Total cost was just a smidge over $200 total. Piece of mind and now I will service it easily from here on out.
Of course, as is also the case, now that it is back I can't ride again until August 23rd! Darn work and a confined space rescue class will keep me off it until then. Oh well, at least I have some things ordered for it so hopefully they will arrive in the mean time so I can get them installed. I should be able to at least get my static suspension settings dialed in and start my suspension log book during this time.
I have to say that it was a noticeable difference in the smoothness of the the motor after this service. Tech said the throttle bodies were out a bit so I am sure that this is where the improvement came. Total cost was just a smidge over $200 total. Piece of mind and now I will service it easily from here on out.
Of course, as is also the case, now that it is back I can't ride again until August 23rd! Darn work and a confined space rescue class will keep me off it until then. Oh well, at least I have some things ordered for it so hopefully they will arrive in the mean time so I can get them installed. I should be able to at least get my static suspension settings dialed in and start my suspension log book during this time.
How might a guy break in his motor on a fly and ride from Longview Texas back to Washington State? I'd just as soon not keep the motor at a prolonged speed/rpm. I'm not sure I've got enough time to spend an extra day around the dealer, put 500 miles on and then head back to Washington. Maybe hit some back roads then look for another dealer along the way? Suggestions?
Pete
Pete
Map some secondary roads that allow you to run up and down the rev range and gears some. If time or mapping don't allow then you can still do the freeway. You will just need to position yourself to have a clear run behind you so you can incorporate some cool down cycles as you go along. Take some periodic off ramps and then hop back on to allow the same. When on the freeway just roll off the throttle sharply and allow the bike to come down in speed on its own to about 35 mph or so. This allows the piston to cant the opposite direction, cool the one side of the ring set and seat the other. Don't maintain any steady speed for longer than about 5 minutes for the first 200 miles. After this you can stretch it out between the sharp roll offs and cool downs.
Once home, you will still need to do some brake bedding in but it will be pretty easy. Just add some moderate to progressively harder 65 to 25 mph brake cycles. No stopping all the way after each one. Just ride on to allow them to cool with airflow and no heat soaking the area of pad/rotor overlap.
Once home, you will still need to do some brake bedding in but it will be pretty easy. Just add some moderate to progressively harder 65 to 25 mph brake cycles. No stopping all the way after each one. Just ride on to allow them to cool with airflow and no heat soaking the area of pad/rotor overlap.
