ECU Removal

Rasher

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#1
I just followed Carsons simple instructions:-

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=7356.0

And took a few pictures as I went, as he implied it was so easy I decided to have a look and to blast some compressed ACF-50 around all the connectors whilst I was at it. As stated it is quite easy, maybe half an hour, probably less if your good at this sort of thing, took me about an hour to remove, oil up and put back together.

You may want to have some spare Xmas Tree fasteners in case you trash / lose any, one of them is a little awkward to reach and looked about secondhand after I had set about it.

1. Remove side cover

2. Remove RHS Fairing, this is quite easy, four allen bolts which are easy to spot, but there are twon Xmas tree fasteners around the back where the "air intake" sits, these are really easy to pop out.



3. Pull off all the top electrical gubbins, most pull straight out, but one of the blocks needs sliding up, easy to identify as it is the one that does not easily pull off.

4. Remove the two Xmas Tree fasteners, the top right one is easy, the bottom left one is protected by surrounding plastic and took me a bit longer to ease out, if you make a mess of any of them this will most likely be it.



5. Remove Allen bolt, from the front you can see where this screws into a metal clip, but to undo it you need to go around the other side, it is not too bad, I got it out with a ball end allen key quite easily, it was more difficult to get a clean photo of it however!

6. Now you can remove the tray to expose the ECU and two connectors



Most the electrics are downward facing which is nice, a couple look a bit more at threat of water in particular the accessory power lead, I put a load of ACF-50 Corrosion block grease around this, the rest looked pretty good so they just got a top up of ACF-50 mist - I do this regularly anyway as it only takes 10 seconds to pop off the side cover when applying ACF t the rest of the bike.

The ECU connectors are well burried away, but glad I took the trouble to get in here and spray some ACF around as it is nice to know they are not going to corrode for sure, I would probably do this every 2 years during a winter deep clean to make sure they stay in tip top order, but they really are well tucked up and protected from the elements - just as well at £1600 ($2500) a piece!
 

ducremus

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#2
This thread, as well as a few others, has been very helpful to me in pulling my ECU, which is headed off to AF-1 tomorrow for the ECUnleashed treatment. Regarding the dreaded 5mm bolt, I found a very simple solution that I want to share. There are three very accessible bolts that hold the entire black plastic carrier, on which all of the electrics reside. Removing those three, shiny 10mm bolts allows one to simply bend/pull the entire piece away from the bike, making access to the 5mm bolt a piece of cake. It'll also make it much easier to put back together too!

BTW, Great bike, great site!
 
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#3
No need to pull all the electrical off, only the one on the far right that is blocking access to the Christmas tree fastener. Once the fasteners and the back allen bolt are taken out then the whole tray will lay back (wiring and all) allowing access to the ECU.
 

turn312

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#4
ECU Removal Trick/Hint

Wanted to share a trick to removing that troublesome allen-head bolt that is accessed from the fork-side of the battery/fuse compartment. Seems lots of folks have trouble reaching it.

In addition to the fasteners that you have to remove to reach the ECU (plenty of other threads detailing this), there are four hex-head bolts that hold the entire battery/fuse holder panel to the bike: 1) Top left close to tank 2) Top right just under the turn signal 3) At the bottom, and a few inches to the right of the batter, and 4) Just below the battery. Remove the top right bolt, and the two bottom bolts (leaving the top left bolt near tank in place). It only takes a minute or two extra, and doing so will allow you to carefully tilt the entire panel away from the forks just enough to easily (or more easily) reach that allen bolt.

I know pics would help - I'll try to add some later. Hope this helps.
 
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#5
Re: ECU Removal Trick/Hint

Also can use the extended socket (5mm allen ball nose) used for tightening the spokes. It drops in at an angle with plenty of room to run the ratchet.
 

78YZ

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#6
AlsoRan said:
No need to pull all the electrical off, only the one on the far right that is blocking access to the Christmas tree fastener. Once the fasteners and the back allen bolt are taken out then the whole tray will lay back (wiring and all) allowing access to the ECU.

I just used these instructions to pull my ECU. Thanks for posting this. It made the job so easy. ::008::
 
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#7
78YZ said:
I just used these instructions to pull my ECU. Thanks for posting this. It made the job so easy. ::008::
Good going! It's even quicker putting it back. Enjoy the new power ::008::
 
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#8
Did a search for ECU removal, half hour later it was out. I know this is an old thread, but thanks for making the job easy for the rest of us.
 

Rasher

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#9
Really happy people still finding it useful, brings back happy memories of my old Super Tenere seeing this old topic again, cannot believe it was four years ago I posted this.
 
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#11
ECU Removal Instructions w/ Working Pictures

I did my best to search the site but I could not find any ECU removal instructions that have been updated with working pictures since the Photobucket fiasco. :mad:

Does anyone know if someone has updated instructions with working pics? Thanks in advance!
 

Checkswrecks

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#15

Don in Lodi

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#17
That socket head bolt from the back side caught me off guard... after I finally figured out where the dang thing was hidden. ::010::
 
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