Easier Rear Wheel Removal/Installation

[Mellow]

I've always had issues removing the rear wheel - the wheel always walks away from the dampeners/hub as it doesn't always slide off the final drive splines and once that happens I typically have to pull out the dampeners to get it off.

Similarly, when installing it, sometimes it goes right into the final drive but while I'm holding the wheel still and trying to line up the brake caliper bracket and axle, the hub may walk a little on the dampeners and make things tough.

So, the last couple of times I tried using Gorilla tape and it works great!

Simply take 2 strips and slide them between the final drive and hub and tape it to the wheel, it keeps the hub in place when you are removing the wheel, you may still need a screw driver to help push the hub out of the final drive but this keeps the dampeners in place.

When installing the wheel, I use 2 strips again and the hub won't walk out of the wheel as many times I have a tough time lining up the splines with the final drive, sometimes it goes right in and sometimes it feels like I have the wrong wheel LOL The tape comes off easily once you have the wheel secured.

Anyway, just a tip the works for me so maybe it will help others and sorry if it's already been posted.

 

[Bushyar15]

nice!!! Good tip!

 

[markjenn]

Good tip, but my experience is that once you "crack" the hub center loose from the splines (by inserting some kind of wedge like the big screwdriver you show), the hub center stays with the wheel. Certainly tape is a good backup though.

- Mark

 

[jaeger22]

Yep, I have had the same issues. It is a royal pain when the wheel separates from the dampeners/hub like that. I came up with a similar solution but using heavy string.

And here:

It holds the hub and wheel together no problem and is fairly quick and easy to install and remove. ::008::
Also notice the axle. A tip I picked up from here on the forum. Put the axle in part way from the wrong (left) side. That will help align the hub and it will slide right in. Once the hub in in place, remove the axle and install as normal. ::012::

 

[Mellow]

A tip I picked up from here on the forum. Put the axle in part way from the wrong (left) side. That will help align the hub and it will slide right in. Once the hub in in place, remove the axle and install as normal. ::012::

Thanks, I didn't know about that one.

 

[Juan]

I'm about to change my tyres first time (2013 with 18000 km). After removing the rear wheel with hub and dampers attached, presumably I have to remove the hub and dampers from the wheel to get the tyre replaced by the garage (I will not be replacing the tyre myself). Am I correct with this? It's my first time removing the wheel, so better to ask a silly question than doing something stupid.

 

[Gonzodog]

Better to remove the damper hub and dampers and leave them at home to prevent them from going missing during the change at the tire shop.

Good tip on the axle from the punkin side.

 

[Juan]

These tricks continue to amaze me. Thanks.

 

[Expflier]

Good tip will probably save me from saying bad words first time I remove wheel!

 

[offcamber]

I'll give this a try the next time the wheel needs to come off...

 

[Juan]

So I finally got down to doing my first tyre change. Took the wheels off and had the garage replace the tyres. Then put the wheels on again. Everything went perfect, thanks to the methodology and tips posted on this forum. Great tip to tie the hub of the rear wheel to secure the dampers in place. Also great tip to insert the axle from the left to facilitate the insertion of the rear wheel. All nuts etc were tightened to torque specifications.

After all this, I took the bike for a test ride. I noticed that on hard pressing the rear brake (for testing purposes) there was a clunking noise lasting a second or less. This happened a few times as soon as I started the test ride, but disappeared completely after a while. I checked everything and found all installations correct.

Any idea what could have caused this clunking noise?

 

[iClint]

Just fitted a set of TKC80's wish I had read this thread first the rear wheel was a bitch. It'll be easier next time.

 

[AVGeek]

So I finally got down to doing my first tyre change. Took the wheels off and had the garage replace the tyres. Then put the wheels on again. Everything went perfect, thanks to the methodology and tips posted on this forum. Great tip to tie the hub of the rear wheel to secure the dampers in place. Also great tip to insert the axle from the left to facilitate the insertion of the rear wheel. All nuts etc were tightened to torque specifications.

After all this, I took the bike for a test ride. I noticed that on hard pressing the rear brake (for testing purposes) there was a clunking noise lasting a second or less. This happened a few times as soon as I started the test ride, but disappeared completely after a while. I checked everything and found all installations correct.

Any idea what could have caused this clunking noise?

Probably the rear caliper moving around until the pads were back into position. Whenever I pull a wheel, I always make sure to pump up the brakes on that wheel after I re-install it.

 

[Koinz]

So I finally got down to doing my first tyre change. Took the wheels off and had the garage replace the tyres. Then put the wheels on again. Everything went perfect, thanks to the methodology and tips posted on this forum. Great tip to tie the hub of the rear wheel to secure the dampers in place. Also great tip to insert the axle from the left to facilitate the insertion of the rear wheel. All nuts etc were tightened to torque specifications.

After all this, I took the bike for a test ride. I noticed that on hard pressing the rear brake (for testing purposes) there was a clunking noise lasting a second or less. This happened a few times as soon as I started the test ride, but disappeared completely after a while. I checked everything and found all installations correct.

Any idea what could have caused this clunking noise?

Check to make sure you lined up the plate that holds the abs sensor. It's supposed lock into the caliper bracket to keep it from spinning. I just spooned on a shinko 705 so it's fresh in my mind. ;D

 

[Juan]

Must have been the caliper settling the pads in place. That's the only plausible reason because the noise has disappeared. It's just that I was surprised by the loudness of the clunking noise. You might ask why there was no noise from the front calipers. The reason is that as suggested on this forum, when the front wheel was back in place, I applied the front brakes and pumped the forks several times before tightening the axel and pinch bolts - so the front pad had already settled in by this exercise.

Thanks to all.

 

[Z00KA]

I put on some tires (front and back) today. I used the instructions in this post and they worked great!

 

[matbaugh]

This was really helpful.

 

[Ron Earp]

Great tip. Have had the drive dampers come out a few times and it is a pain in the ass.