dreaded cruise control issue

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#1
I've read as much as I could on this issue (blinking yellow cruise light), but haven't gathered too much info. The dealership changed out the rear brake switch and it worked for about 6 hours (one stint on the interstate). After that, it started blinking again. I attempted to adjust the rear brake today but I'm not sure how much to adjust it. I loosened the lock nut and raised the brake lever (lowered the rear closer to the spring). A lot of talk about adjusting this lever, but very little specific info on how much. Any help would be appreciated. By the way, this flashing light is intermittent, so being able to pin it down is an issue as well.

Jon
 

gv550

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#2
From my experience, a misadjusted rear brake switch will not cause the flashing cruise light syndrome. If not adjusted properly it can cause the cruise to not engage, but not a flashing light.
First thing to check is for stored codes, if code 90 then use an analog ohmmeter to test the front brake light switch, front brake cruise cancel switch and clutch switch. All the procedures are detailed in the older threads.
 
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#3
I'd been experiencing the flashing cruise symbol and 090 code. Will probably have it looked at when I get my 8,000 mile service in a few weeks. That said, I started playing around with a few things and don't know if they are connected or not - but my incidences of 090 and flashing cruise have diminished. I also speculate that it could be weather related, but I don't know. Here's what I've been doing as a recent habit:

1) I started shutting down the bike at the key vs the kill switch. The only reason I started doing this is that this was recommended for my wife's Triumph Tiger 800. If you read threads on this issue for the S10, the consensus is that it makes no difference and I agree with the concept. In doing this, I obviously can't see a 090 code at shutdown, like I could with the kill switch. And why a shutdown-caused error would have an effect on a start-up check-sequence, I don't know, unless the codes carry over between events. I did a few tests with kill switch shutdown and got the 090 code, so there was some correlation.
2) I began to work the brake and clutch levers before firing up the bike. Push them forward, like you were going to change the adjusting wheels and pulling them in. I've really only continued to do this with the clutch side as I've experienced the "bike pulls forward when fired up in gear when cold and clutch lever pulled in" issue (another item I'm looking at, which I think will point to the slave cylinder grease). This makes me wonder if there could be an issue with the two position switch and some level of stickiness to the position that confirms switch position during the start-up check sequence.

And I allow that this could all be actions that have no effect on the cruise control 090 issue. Just superstitious coincidence. However, the actions themselves aren't a big deal. It would be interesting to test one or both of these out and see if it makes a difference (please report back). In my old routine (fire up w/o clutch lever play and shutdown with kill switch) I'd estimate my 090 code and flashing cruise would occur about 75% of the time. I've recently had a very good run of no cruise issues or codes - again, potential coincidence. And I may have just jinxed myself.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
2015 WR250R
1987 K75S
 

fredz43

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#5
My son and I both have 2014 ES models. About a month ago I started getting the flashing cruise light fairly regularly. About the same time, my son started getting the same, but not as often. My dealer, perhaps the same one that worked on Jon's said that they had done some troubleshooting with Yamaha Tech Support on another S10 and decided to change the rear brake switch, so he ordered one each for our 2 bikes. When the switches came in, the service manager told me that the bike that they had changed the rear brake switch on had started having this problem again. In any case, he changed those switches on both of our bikes. We just returned from a 2 week ride to Colorado and in over 4,000 miles, mine did not have the flashing light at all. My son had it reoccur 3 times in the 5,000 miles that he put on his bike. Since he lives 7,000 miles away from me in Biloxi, MS, he will have to refer to a dealer there.
 
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#6
Fred,

Brian informed me that he was waiting on the completion of your trip to determine what to do next with mine. Since yours seems to be fixed but your son's isn't, that almost leaves me back to square one. I may follow the above suggestion and test the front brake switch. I had code 90 the first time I took it to the shop, but haven't checked the code since. I can only assume it's still 90. Thanks for the update. Jon
 

2by4

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#7
I have also been having intermittent cruise control issues (flashing indicator and code 090 errors on shut down and start up) for the past 6 months. Took it to the dealer who discussed it with Yamaha Tech support. They changed the rear break light switch (all of which took 2 weeks!!, 1 week for Yamaha to return the call, and then 5 days to ship the part). The problem has continued to occur intermittently. It appears that when you start the bike the cruise will either work or not. If I get the flashing indicator I shut the bike off and start it up again and almost always the cruise will then work until I shut the bike down again. Using the Kill switch or Key do not appear to make a difference (except you can't see the code 090 when using the Key). To me this seems to be more of a computer processor issue than a sensor issue since it goes away for awhile when you "reboot" the bike. My initial work was covered under warranty, and my dealer has assured me that since the problem was reported during the warranty period it will still be taken care of by Yamaha even after the warranty expires. I need to put my bike up for the next 3.5 months and will not be able to take it for further repair efforts until the fall, so I hope he is correct. This trial and error approach to the repair (with 2 weeks lay up per trial) is a real pain. I would think Yamaha would have figured this problem out by now since it appears to be happening quite often.
 

2by4

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#10
I think you may be correct it appears that the front break light switch is sticking and remaining on, thus blocking the CC from engaging, also leaving the break light on (not a good thing). I will try to get the dealer to change this switch when I take it in in the fall after the bikes 3.5 month rest.
 

fredz43

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#11
My friends' 2014 standard is in the shop with cc trouble that is different than what I have typically seen. Instead of getting the flashing cruise control indicator light, his cruise light comes on steady but when he selects the button to set it, nothing happens. I have even loaned the dealer my 2014 for them to experiment with and they swapped ECU's with no change and then swapped the left switchgear with no change. They now have all my original equipment back to normal and are continuing their search for the culprit. Yamaha tech support has so far not been of much help. This bike is still under the YES warranty. Anybody know of a similar problem and/or have any suggestions?

Thanks.
 

scott123007

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#12
Hey Fred, I don't know if I'll ultimately be of much help, especially because I always seem to have a case of CRS whenever situations like this pop up, but I'll do my best to recollect what I went through to find my problem, even though it was the blinking light syndrome.
I am assuming that the light that you are speaking of that is on steady is the orange CC light, and when you say it won't set, you mean that the green SET light does not come on at all, as well as the cruise not setting?
So, with a normally operating CC, there are 5 different ways to disable it. The clutch, the throttle, front brake, rear brake, and the one most don't realize, changing gear without the clutch. I mention this last one because I "think" the other 4 ways all have a switch of some sort. I say "think" because I'm not sure about the throttle roll-off. I just know that when it gets twisted to the off position when on cruise, the cruise is disabled, although I don't know why exactly.
And I REALLY have no idea how the 5th way that I speak of works. All I know is that if you have the CC on, in say 5th gear on a slight up hill, and you have a little tension on the shifter as though you want to go into 6th, but without using the clutch, as soon as you crest that hill and the transmission relaxes enough for it to slip into 6th gear, the cruise disables. Why, I don't know, but it does, so something is signaling the ECU.
Since you have changed out both the ECU and the left hand switch gear, I would rule out the clutch switch, and the no clutch gear change as being the culprits. For the time being, I would also rule out the throttle roll-off, because, like I said, I'm not sure if there is a switch controlling that, or if that is a signal from the FBW rheostat that goes directly to the ECU.
That leaves the two most popular culprits, the brake light switches. MY experience has been that when the cruise light goes blinky, it is a malfunctioning of the microswitches in the FRONT brake light switch. The reason that happens, I "think", is because the microswitch that operates the brake light gets stuck on, and I "think", since it is not supposed to operate until moments after the microswitch that disables the cruise is triggered, that it sends a fault code, as well as making that light blink.
I don't think the rear works that way. The reason I say that is because when I tried to listen for the same two audible clicks that the front brake switch provides, there are none, at least not from the switch by the pedal. However, if you turn the key on and then depress the rear brake, a single click can be heard coming from something behind the right front upper shroud. To be fair, that's as far as I ever got, because my problem was the front switch, so I never dug any further to find exactly where that click was coming from. If I had to make a wild ass guess as to what his problem was, I would be concentrating on whatever it is that makes that clicking noise, because the only time we ever hear of a CC light staying on solid, and the CC not setting, is from the rear brake light being out of adjustment, which of course is the first thing you checked, right? LOL
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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#13
I think the roll off cancellation is actually a small switch in the throttle body assembly. On mine you have rotate the grip just past fully closed to activate it, at least visually with the air box off and working the throttle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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#14
Hey Fred, I don't know if I'll ultimately be of much help, especially because I always seem to have a case of CRS whenever situations like this pop up, but I'll do my best to recollect what I went through to find my problem, even though it was the blinking light syndrome.
I am assuming that the light that you are speaking of that is on steady is the orange CC light, and when you say it won't set, you mean that the green SET light does not come on at all, as well as the cruise not setting?
So, with a normally operating CC, there are 5 different ways to disable it. The clutch, the throttle, front brake, rear brake, and the one most don't realize, changing gear without the clutch. I mention this last one because I "think" the other 4 ways all have a switch of some sort. I say "think" because I'm not sure about the throttle roll-off. I just know that when it gets twisted to the off position when on cruise, the cruise is disabled, although I don't know why exactly.
And I REALLY have no idea how the 5th way that I speak of works. All I know is that if you have the CC on, in say 5th gear on a slight up hill, and you have a little tension on the shifter as though you want to go into 6th, but without using the clutch, as soon as you crest that hill and the transmission relaxes enough for it to slip into 6th gear, the cruise disables. Why, I don't know, but it does, so something is signaling the ECU.
Since you have changed out both the ECU and the left hand switch gear, I would rule out the clutch switch, and the no clutch gear change as being the culprits. For the time being, I would also rule out the throttle roll-off, because, like I said, I'm not sure if there is a switch controlling that, or if that is a signal from the FBW rheostat that goes directly to the ECU.
That leaves the two most popular culprits, the brake light switches. MY experience has been that when the cruise light goes blinky, it is a malfunctioning of the microswitches in the FRONT brake light switch. The reason that happens, I "think", is because the microswitch that operates the brake light gets stuck on, and I "think", since it is not supposed to operate until moments after the microswitch that disables the cruise is triggered, that it sends a fault code, as well as making that light blink.
I don't think the rear works that way. The reason I say that is because when I tried to listen for the same two audible clicks that the front brake switch provides, there are none, at least not from the switch by the pedal. However, if you turn the key on and then depress the rear brake, a single click can be heard coming from something behind the right front upper shroud. To be fair, that's as far as I ever got, because my problem was the front switch, so I never dug any further to find exactly where that click was coming from. If I had to make a wild ass guess as to what his problem was, I would be concentrating on whatever it is that makes that clicking noise, because the only time we ever hear of a CC light staying on solid, and the CC not setting, is from the rear brake light being out of adjustment, which of course is the first thing you checked, right? LOL
The Front Switches was a known issue on the 2014 up Vstrom 1000abs as well, it didn't effect cruise because it didn't have it but it would effect abs, traction control and ever better the bike would not start, completely dead. This happened to me, out in the middle of no where. I started carrying both clutch and front brake micro switch's with me at all times. When new there was a very positive sound that you could hear the switch operate, but as it failed it well less audible, eventually it would just stay stuck open. Maybe this is happening here to, where the switch is to weak to operate Properly..

Maybe I should order these for the S10, its a easy part to swap in a pinch.
 

fredz43

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#15
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll check with my dealer's service manager again, to make sure, but my understanding is that they already replaced the clutch switch and both brake switches. I'm pretty sure that they have not replaced the switch or whatever it is on the throttle body that deactivates the cc. I will talk to him and the tech that has been working on this. With my 14, the symptom was the usual blinking light when you tried to select cc on and they found the front brake switch to be the culprit. With this one, you can select cc on, but when then pushing the set button, nothing happens.

I believe there is also a speed permissive in the circuit in that it will not set below a certain speed and if so, I'm not sure where it gets the speed signal. Is there also a permissive for the transmission to be in, say 5th or 6th gear or can you set cc in any gear?
 

scott123007

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#16
I forgot about that. It will not set below 27mph, if I recollect. It will set in all gears above 2nd, so, yeah, there's a couple of other things going on that I forgot about.
Also,I just checked the service manual and it looks like that clicking I hear when the brake lever is depressed is a relay. Now I am even more curious why no sound / s can be heard when the switch is operated.
I there even a remote possibility that the CC fuse could be blown? I can't imagine that the system would be set up to where the dash would show the orange light if it was, and the rest of the system not work, but it would be easy to check. (Just thinking out loud)
 
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JamesGang

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#17
My friends' 2014 standard is in the shop with cc trouble that is different than what I have typically seen. Instead of getting the flashing cruise control indicator light, his cruise light comes on steady but when he selects the button to set it, nothing happens. I have even loaned the dealer my 2014 for them to experiment with and they swapped ECU's with no change and then swapped the left switchgear with no change. They now have all my original equipment back to normal and are continuing their search for the culprit. Yamaha tech support has so far not been of much help. This bike is still under the YES warranty. Anybody know of a similar problem and/or have any suggestions?

Thanks.
This problem (cruise light comes on steady but when you select the button to 'Set' it, nothing happens) started on my '18 non ES yesterday. Due to lack of knowledge, I have no choice but to take it to the dealer here in Sydney, N.S. where I purchased her. My warranty expired two weeks ago and I worry that they will just keep throwing parts at it until they figure it out.
 

bnschroder

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#18
I have had the issue very infrequently but then long periods without, so i wonder if this might be a glitch in the controller software vs a malfunction of a switch. Or could this be weather-related issue? I had it happen the first time after riding in rain.
 
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#20
After a little investigation, I discovered that my clutch lever was somewhat dry and wasn't completely releasing. A bit of lubrication and all is well.
Lucky me!
I will be in your neck of the woods End of June for a for a trek to Meat Cove. I will Lubricate my clutch lever too its looks on the dry side now that you mentioned it as well.
 
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