Did the CO and air-screw Adj.. my thougths... :)

[~TABASCO~]

Thanks to everyone that has done the home work on the new bike and found out all the new little tricks...... This morning I fallowed the the two post and performed the CO settings adjustment and the the air screw adjustment. I have my CO currently on 6. That was really easy. I moved onto the air screw. Not sure if everyone's bike is the same but my right side (white) screw was totally closed. It was also pretty tight closed. The left side (non painted) was open about 3/4 of a turn open before I started to mess with anything.

I will also say I have about 600 miles. At any given time in neutral the bike would never idle that good. It has actually gotten worst. Some times is would drop below 1000 and the choke back to 1050 or so, back and forth and so on.... rough idle...

After I messed with both, I hooked up the synchronizer and the left (non painted) was still all over the board. When it comes to this type of job im very particular and got every thing as close to 100% as possible.. Then buttoned everything back up.......................

When I pulled it down out of the rack it was wormed up, got my helmet and hopped on..... WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I didnt realize how bad it was until I got it better with these two adjustments. The idle is right at 1100 now and just sits right there, nice and smooth. Right out of the gate off of 1100-1200 its super smooth now. MUCH better than it was. Like several others have said its a night and day difference. It seams to pull smoother up to about 5K as well but I have no proof, just feels like it..

This is a great mod / Adjustment for the new bike. IMOP every owner SHOULD do this or have a friend help you do it. Makes the bike that much better. If you do change and mess with the air screws you really need to have a Synchronizer. The right and left DONT end up in the same position (screw wise). I started off with both of mine in the same turns out and they where WAY off... If you don't have one you can buy one cheep or barrow one. But you need the tool... Don't guess.....

Thanks again to every one's information ! I just continue to like this bike more and more ! Thanks ~ Jaxon

 

[Firefight911]

That right there is a great post that validates the whole adjustment scenario I have been considering since seeing those posts. Thanks for that !!!!!

 

[jajpko]

Thanks to everyone that has done the home work on the new bike and found out all the new little tricks...... This morning I fallowed the the two post and performed the CO settings adjustment and the the air screw adjustment. I have my CO currently on 6. That was really easy. I moved onto the air screw. Not sure if everyone's bike is the same but my right side (white) screw was totally closed. It was also pretty tight closed. The left side (non painted) was open about 3/4 of a turn open before I started to mess with anything.

I will also say I have about 600 miles. At any given time in neutral the bike would never idle that good. It has actually gotten worst. Some times is would drop below 1000 and the choke back to 1050 or so, back and forth and so on.... rough idle...

After I messed with both, I hooked up the synchronizer and the left (non painted) was still all over the board. When it comes to this type of job im very particular and got every thing as close to 100% as possible.. Then buttoned everything back up.......................

When I pulled down out of the rack it was wormed up, got my helmet and hopped on..... WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I didnt realize how bad it was until I got it better with these two adjustments. The idle is right at 1100 now and just sits right there, nice and smooth. Right out of the gate off of 1100-1200 its super smooth now. MUCH better than it was. Like several others have said its a night and day difference. It seams to pull smoother up to about 5K as well but I have no proof, just feels like it..

This is a great mod / Adjustment for the new bike. IMOP every owner SHOULD do this or have a friend help you do it. Makes the bike that much better. If you do change and mess with the air screws you really need to have a Synchronizer. The right and left DONT end up in the same position (screw wise). I started off with both of mine in the same turns out and they where WAY off... If you don't have one you can buy one cheep or barrow one. But you need the tool... Don't guess.....

Thanks again to every one's information ! I just continue to like this bike more and more ! Thanks ~ Jaxon

Jaxon, how much did you turn the painted side out before you synced, and what was the position on the other when you finished?
Good report,
Thanks

 

[Rynn Storm]

The idle is right at 1100 now and just sits right there, nice and smooth. Right out of the gate off of 1100-1200 its super smooth now.

My ST with no changes performs like that. I also tried the 8 mph with no throttle test (first gear) with no problem (with 500 miles on the bike, didn't try it before). Either the tuning is hit or miss from the factory or my dealer (Yamaha gold star service rated) adjusted the bike as part of prep.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Japaco..

I backed them about about 270 like SPEED's picture... I tweaked it a bit but that is really close on the (R)..... The left at first was the same distance out (starting).. Then when the bike was being dialed in I think I screwed it in and then back out.. Then messed with the throttle a little and then more tweaking on the (L)... In the end, I don't know exactly where is ended compared to stock... I will say they are synced 99.9% of each other now... Stock, they where OFF by a lot.... The difference before and after is amazing !

 

[~TABASCO~]

That right there is a great post that validates the whole adjustment scenario I have been considering since seeing those posts. Thanks for that !!!!!

You SHOULD do both of these adjustments! ::015::

 

[SpeedStar]

That is great Jaxon. I am glad that it is not just me.
I really noticed a huge improvement too and wanted to share it with everyone else here.

BTW, I have also settled on 6 for both cylinder CO settings.

Loving this bike more everyday!

 

[~TABASCO~]

Took your advice on the (6)... so far is SO MUCH better.. 'bout to do a PCV&AT that should wake it up about 10 more Hp... ::018::

 

[SpeedStar]

Yes. You will be loving it even more. I am trying to decide if I want to go ahead and order the Arrow headers before my custom map.
Probably will.

 

[colorider]

If you do change and mess with the air screws you really need to have a Synchronizer. The right and left DONT end up in the same position (screw wise). I started off with both of mine in the same turns out and they where WAY off... If you don't have one you can buy one cheep or barrow one. But you need the tool... Don't guess.....

Thanks Jaxon for posting this!!! Also thanks to SpeedStar for the posting the initial info.

I do not have a sync tool (sold mine when I sold my last BMW years ago).

What's the tool of choice for the TBS???

 

[~TABASCO~]

If you can find a mercury unit those are the best... what is available out these days everywhere is something like a Motion Pro Sync-Pro.. Not as good as the Mercury but does the job.. This is a basic unit that does great. Of course you can get more fancy...

 

[Don in Lodi]

Morgan Carbtune out of the UK is still around I believe.

 

[jajpko]

Dcstrom posted about one called Harmonizer. It is electronic. I have not tried it yet, but will give it a go soon.

 

[SpeedStar]

Dcstrom posted about one called Harmonizer. It is electronic. I have not tried it yet, but will give it a go soon.

Hey Jim, let me know what you think of the Harmonizer. I was thinking of maybe getting one of those to replace my homemade manometer.

 

[jajpko]

::008::

 

[~TABASCO~]

I did a little off road tonight for 20-30 minutes on my way home. One thing I really noticed was when your in the dirt and in first gear and cruising around, the throttle is much smoother at low RPM for some slow dirt ride. First or second, but lower RPM's... SO MUCH better than before... I had the bike on (S) with TC off... got on it good out in the dirt and this is 100HP dirt bike..... I had a smile, its a BEAST !!! Love it !

Anyone thinking of performing the necessary adjustments, DO IT ! If your not mechanically incline feel free to post any questions.. There are many people here to help !

 

[Mellow]

I went out and changed mine to 6 last night. I'll try to get out today if I can get away from work and see what kind of difference that makes. Thanks for the posts.

 

[maddog5150]

OK, I hav been on the fence, but it looks like i HAVE to do this! If I remember right you have to ground some wire before you can do the CO adjustment, is that right? Guess I need to dig up the original posts on each..... :

 

[Mellow]

OK, I hav been on the fence, but it looks like i HAVE to do this! If I remember right you have to ground some wire before you can do the CO adjustment, is that right? Guess I need to dig up the original posts on each..... :

yup, under the passenger seat/pod. There's a connector and a light green wire there. Ground that. I was thinking about putting a switch on mine but got lazy.

 

[markjenn]

What's the tool of choice for the TBS???

I like the Morgan Carbtune. No mercury, nicely damped, handles 4-cyls, easy to store, has nice selection of adapters, etc. I've had one for years.

If you only need to tune twins, there are a few tools like the Twinmax that people like.

The Motion Pro mercury ones work fine too, but you're stuck with this awkward tool that has to stored upright forever and will require special handling if you ever have to get rid of it. Unfortunately, most are thrown into landfills eventually and mercury in our landfills is a huge problem.

You can homebrew also with clear plastic tubing and colored liquids but the thing gets unwieldy. And you may have to source taps/adapters if the bike doesn't have hoses to tap into.

- Mark