Dark brake fluid

[mcbrien]

At 5000 miles my brake fluid in sight glass looks dark / burn't . Whats yours look like ? .
I'm a big fan of Motul brake fluid and am looking for an excuse to switch ....mabe. Also
Motion Pro has a new tool out that I need an excuse to buy .

 

[Firefight911]

Unless there has been an opportunity for the container to be opened it is unlikely that your brake fluid is contaminated too much at this point. Typically, every two years for a flush is sufficient but, it won't hurt anything to change it.

One very big word of caution though, make sure you check out the proper procedure to do this!!! This is an ABS equipped motorcycle, therefore, there may (I said may) be a particular way that you need to do things so as not to mess up the system. Think BMW where there are control circuits and wheel circuits. I have the complete service manual and can look it up but have not done so yet so I am only speaking from a cautionary point not a knowledge point.

Since my bike was built in June and I took delivery in August of last year, I don't anticipate messing with the brake fluid until August of 2013 unless I need pads or something happens that I feel a need to replace the existing fluid.

 

[mcbrien]

I will be sure to check procedure before attempting fluid change . I was just
wondering if every one's was going dark ?
Thanks

 

[biting_point]

Being dark is normal..

I last bleed them when installing the longer clutch and brake linesmm

Bleeding this ABS equipped bike is the same as any other..
For me, I bleed the front(L&R), back then front(L&R) again because of the combine brake system..

I normally bleed the brakes every 6months..
I get annoyed to see dark brake fluids..
No harm feeding your brakes fresh oils!

 

[20valves]

No harm feeding your brakes fresh oils!

Agree. My experience is that the OEM brake fluid darkens very quickly. I don't why exactly, maybe being in the shipping container at sea?? Anyway, I change out the brake fluids along with the oil and stuff at the 600 mile mark. The new fluid usually stays clear for at least a year and usually two, depending on usage, location, etc.

 

[hojo in sc]

Perhaps just change out the fluid in the reservoir.

 

[doctorj]

I need some advice. I have done many brake and clutch bleeding on many bikes, but I guess since the clutch reservoir has so small of a volume, I got air in the line. I have repeatedly added fluid and followed the service manual in how to clear the air. But I still have a lever with almost no resistance. I hate to take it to a dealer for this so any wisdom is appreciated. I won't make this error again.

Doctorj

 

[motocephalic]

I need some advice. I have done many brake and clutch bleeding on many bikes, but I guess since the clutch reservoir has so small of a volume, I got air in the line. I have repeatedly added fluid and followed the service manual in how to clear the air. But I still have a lever with almost no resistance. I hate to take it to a dealer for this so any wisdom is appreciated. I won't make this error again.

Doctorj

On bikes that I have gotten air locked, it took repeated attempts at getting the air out. I used this trick on many occasions, and it cleared the air. Make sure the reservoir is full, and place a rag at the first bolt at the master cylinder (Rubber hose). Loosen that bolt and slowly pump the lever 1X. Tighten and repeat. Sometimes air hangs up before the rubber hoses, and bleeding it from the bleeder does not work. Let me know how it works.

happy trails

 

[stevepsd]

On bikes that I have gotten air locked, it took repeated attempts at getting the air out. I used this trick on many occasions, and it cleared the air. Make sure the reservoir is full, and place a rag at the first bolt at the master cylinder (Rubber hose). Loosen that bolt and slowly pump the lever 1X. Tighten and repeat. Sometimes air hangs up before the rubber hoses, and bleeding it from the bleeder does not work. Let me know how it works.

happy trails

A couple of other things to try since you have a air bubble in the line somewhere (air is compressable, fluid is not) is to tap/rap the hydraulic system starting from it's lowest point which in this case is the slave cylinder, then up the line to the master cylinder. This might dislodge the air bubble.

Another trick is to loosen/remove the master cylinder cover and depress the lever to half-way and hold it in this position overnight (use a clamp or something to hold the lever). This can allow the air bubble to travel up and out of the system.

Good luck.

 

[doctorj]

Thanks. I will try one or all.

Doctorj

 

[doctorj]

Here is a followup. I did all the suggestions. I finally got the clutch lever to "feel right". This morning on the centerstand I started the bike and could shift into first and back to neutral. But in first gear, the rear tire still spins about 8 mph even with the clutch lever pulled in. I tried stopping the tire with my boot but it kept spinning. Now before the clutch bleeding, the clutch didn't engage until it was pulled all the way in, so it may be very close to that now. But I don't want to be sitting at a brake light and having to hold the bike with the brake due to the clutch not engaging enough to keep the gear from being engaged. I know there isn't an adjustment, and it feels like all the air is finally out, so is the collective wisdom that I should keep bleeding until better or what? Did anyone ever start out with a very minor project and have it turn to a steaming pile? That is how I feel about now i.e. taking a bike working fine and screw it up with a minor task. I'm out of warranty now but still may have to get to the shop for such a simple thing.

doctorj

 

[Rasher]

Agree. My experience is that the OEM brake fluid darkens very quickly.

I have found this too, I bought a new ZZR1400 and the front stuff seemed OK but the rear brake fluid was awful within a year, and lots of owners on the forum found the same.

I will change my brake and clutch fluid over the winter, for the few quid it costs and how easy the job is (BMW Servo brakes being the exception) I can't see why not to do it yourself every winter - will do the FD oil and pull the Pumpkin at the same time.

 

[motocephalic]

Do you have a mini mac bleeder? If you don't buying one would help a great deal. And to answer the question, yes I would try bleeding it with a mini mac bleeder before submitting to the shop.

Here is a followup. I did all the suggestions. I finally got the clutch lever to "feel right". This morning on the centerstand I started the bike and could shift into first and back to neutral. But in first gear, the rear tire still spins about 8 mph even with the clutch lever pulled in. I tried stopping the tire with my boot but it kept spinning. Now before the clutch bleeding, the clutch didn't engage until it was pulled all the way in, so it may be very close to that now. But I don't want to be sitting at a brake light and having to hold the bike with the brake due to the clutch not engaging enough to keep the gear from being engaged. I know there isn't an adjustment, and it feels like all the air is finally out, so is the collective wisdom that I should keep bleeding until better or what? Did anyone ever start out with a very minor project and have it turn to a steaming pile? That is how I feel about now i.e. taking a bike working fine and screw it up with a minor task. I'm out of warranty now but still may have to get to the shop for such a simple thing.

doctorj

 

[stevepsd]

Here is a followup. I did all the suggestions. I finally got the clutch lever to "feel right". This morning on the centerstand I started the bike and could shift into first and back to neutral. But in first gear, the rear tire still spins about 8 mph even with the clutch lever pulled in. I tried stopping the tire with my boot but it kept spinning. Now before the clutch bleeding, the clutch didn't engage until it was pulled all the way in, so it may be very close to that now. But I don't want to be sitting at a brake light and having to hold the bike with the brake due to the clutch not engaging enough to keep the gear from being engaged. I know there isn't an adjustment, and it feels like all the air is finally out, so is the collective wisdom that I should keep bleeding until better or what? Did anyone ever start out with a very minor project and have it turn to a steaming pile? That is how I feel about now i.e. taking a bike working fine and screw it up with a minor task. I'm out of warranty now but still may have to get to the shop for such a simple thing.

doctorj

What you are experiencing with the wheel turning while on the centerstand is not uncommon or unusual, especially if the engine is not fully warmed up. Even when warm the wheel will still spin some. It's clutch drag caused by viscous oil (assuming you have not abused the clutch and have warped plates : ). I bet you won't notice it when not on the centerstand.

Heck, I cannot even start my KTM in gear (clutch lever pulled in) when cold, it acts just like it is in gear. When warm, no problem. And that happens with all the EXC's.

 

[MikeBear]

What you are experiencing with the wheel turning while on the centerstand is not uncommon or unusual, especially if the engine is not fully warmed up. Even when warm the wheel will still spin some. It's clutch drag caused by viscous oil (assuming you have not abused the clutch and have warped plates : ). I bet you won't notice it when not on the centerstand.

Heck, I cannot even start my KTM in gear (clutch lever pulled in) when cold, it acts just like it is in gear. When warm, no problem. And that happens with all the EXC's.

::026:: I have not experienced this on s10 but I have on my R1 and only in cold weather. Usually I could hold rear wheel with my foot or stop it with rear brake without engine tone changing. How is it when warm?

 

[Mikef5000]

Here is a followup. I did all the suggestions. I finally got the clutch lever to "feel right". This morning on the centerstand I started the bike and could shift into first and back to neutral. But in first gear, the rear tire still spins about 8 mph even with the clutch lever pulled in. I tried stopping the tire with my boot but it kept spinning. Now before the clutch bleeding, the clutch didn't engage until it was pulled all the way in, so it may be very close to that now. But I don't want to be sitting at a brake light and having to hold the bike with the brake due to the clutch not engaging enough to keep the gear from being engaged. I know there isn't an adjustment, and it feels like all the air is finally out, so is the collective wisdom that I should keep bleeding until better or what? Did anyone ever start out with a very minor project and have it turn to a steaming pile? That is how I feel about now i.e. taking a bike working fine and screw it up with a minor task. I'm out of warranty now but still may have to get to the shop for such a simple thing.

doctorj

As stated above, this is normal. I just ran into the same situation and asked about it here(3rd post down): http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=545850&page=918
Got plenty of responses saying all is good, so I've put another couple hundred miles on it since then, and it seems as normal as ever.

 

[doctorj]

What you are experiencing with the wheel turning while on the centerstand is not uncommon or unusual, especially if the engine is not fully warmed up. Even when warm the wheel will still spin some. It's clutch drag caused by viscous oil (assuming you have not abused the clutch and have warped plates : ). I bet you won't notice it when not on the centerstand.

Heck, I cannot even start my KTM in gear (clutch lever pulled in) when cold, it acts just like it is in gear. When warm, no problem. And that happens with all the EXC's.

You are right. After getting it off the centerstand, it seems to run like it is supposed to and the clutch now is (hopefully) air free. ::012::

doctorj