Cruise control fault

[Squibb]

Perhaps you should point Mr. Yamaha (in denial seemingly) at this very Forum??

Never heard such an excuse, since my BMW days that is. Which Dealer are you using? - some haven't got much expertise when it comes to trouble shooting electronics, so may need to lean on the Mothership.

Good luck & keep the pressure on ..................... KEN

 

[Sandford6016]

My thoughts exactly! Dealer is 'The Motorbike Shop' in Farnborough.

I must admit, I did get off the phone and start googling UK Tenere specialists but it didn't come up with much.

Oh well, the wait continues! Will update once I hear more!

 

[Sandford6016]

UPDATE!

Dealer had the bike for 3 days and had to get Yamaha UK involved as well. Long story short.... fault was found to be the rear brake sensor that controls the brake light. Brake light was working fine (as I already had tested) but apparently there are 2 circuits in this sensor, 1 for the brake light and 1 for the cruise control. The circuit connections for the cruise control were corroded but the brake section was fine?!! Anyway, a sensor has been ordered (coming from Holland) and will be fitted once it arrives. All done under warranty.

(Now to look at a little exhaust problem, see my other post!)

 

[Gigitt]

Well that is good to know that the rear brake switch has 2 circuits.

Good to hear that it is sorted.
::015::

 

[Scott Williams]

Glad you found the problem, Sandford. I have a 2014 with the same symptoms. Solved it today with a 10 minute visit to a local bike shop. The mech. used 10mm and 12mm wrenches and adjusted the rear brake pedal so that the forward end of the peg is lifted upward. There are two adjustment nuts to take up slack in the linkage. EZ to see. Seems that when I stuck my right boot under the forward tip and raised it, the green light would turn on and the CC would work. The mech. told that with 25,000 km on the bike, the rear pads were beginning to wear. So he took up slack and the CC works perfectly now. A simple adjustment.

When I changed tires at 15,000 km, I put a TKC80 on the front and a Mitas E07 on the rear. In researching both tires on this board, I learned that braking hard on the front wheel can cause damage to the nubs on the TKC80. Several of our members suggested using the rear brake pedal more often....especially down hills and when coming to a quick stop. So I started using the rear brake pedal and changed my habit of only using the brake lever on the r/si handlebar. Thus I began wearing the rear pads somewhat faster than normal. Anyway, she has been working perfectly all day since the adjustment. Good luck with your repair! Cheers, Scott

 

[outdoor]

Hi, I've trawled the forum and tried most things, but my cruise control on my 2015 1200z is not working. I can get the orange light on, but when pressing 'set' is does nothing.

I've checked the brake pedal, clutch and brake lever switches, applied contact cleaner to the cruise control switch undersides but still no joy. The only thing I haven't done yet is checked the fuse. But would the orange light come on if the fuse had blown??

Now, the only thing that had changed on the bike since recently, however it did work straight afterwards, was that I've fitted the cyclops LED headlight bulb kit.

Any ideas before I ring the dealer to look at it under warranty?? Thanks!

How did you check the switch? it is an enclosed unit, you can't get to the bare wires to check the 2 micro switches.

 

[RCinNC]

I don't think you'll get an answer from Sandford. This is a pretty old thread, and he hasn't been on the forum since March 2022.

 

[outdoor]

I don't think you'll get an answer from Sandford. This is a pretty old thread, and he hasn't been on the forum since March 2022.

Well that is too bad. I'm having a very hard time tracking down the info i need. Not sure why as an owner of a bike we don't have free access to service manuals.

 

[RCinNC]

Probably because Yamaha considers the service manual to be an OEM part, like a brake pad or a master cylinder. They cost money to produce, and Yamaha wants to make a profit on things they manufacture. From a business perspective, it makes no more sense to give away a $100 manual (or to make the information available for free online) than it does to give away a front rotor or an ABS pump.

Even aftermarket manuals like Chilton are pushing harder to monetize the information in their manuals by going to a strictly online, subscription based service rather than printing them like they used to. Lower production cost + equal or higher profits = happy capitalists.

 

[outdoor]

Finally, i just bought the service manual. If i'm following things correctly, it appears the front brake switch, rear brake switch and clutch switch are all wired together? Does that make sense?

 

[Jlq1969]

Finally, i just bought the service manual. If i'm following things correctly, it appears the front brake switch, rear brake switch and clutch switch are all wired together? Does that make sense?

Yes….the circuit that you see as “common”, is to deactivate the CC..
If you have already checked the correct operation of the switches... you should check the "normal closed" outputs of the stop light relay... probably that "normal closed" position of this relay is part of the deactivation circuit of the CC

 

[outdoor]

can someone explain how this clutch switch works?


The colours it shows are not the colours I actually see going into the switch?

 

[Jlq1969]

can someone explain how this clutch switch works?
View attachment 106412

The colours it shows are not the colours I actually see going into the switch?

Probably the ss manual that you bought is the most popular on the internet: 2014 ss manual... I think I read that your S10 was newer, so the change in cable colors could be a fact

 

[outdoor]

Ok so im going to test the resistance of the throttle position sensor and the accelerator position sensor.

Anyone know how to get at the lower scree of the throttle position sensor. Not much room there

 

[outdoor]

So I checked the throttle position sensor its ok with recommended resistance

Checked the accelerator or throttle switch the one the when you push throttle back it activates a little micro switch it has continuity

Was trying to get at the accelerator position sensor but I cannot get ar the lower screw

 

[outdoor]

I've checked the throttle switch and i seem to be getting inconsistent continuity. Not sure if im just not getting good contact or maybe there is a short and it is in and out. How can I find the part number so I can order a replacement

 

[Squibb]

I believe you have a 2020 MY bike, so the diagnostic checks should point you directly at the issue. However IIRC from your other posts across various different threads, problems emerged after a flash & the fitting of Arrow headers, so one has to consider what has been disturbed during these changes. I understand the CC turns on correctly & the light is stable, not flashing, but then refuses to accept the set command.

So, looking at diagnostics, can you refresh us by detailing what the results of the check procedures show: -

Go into diagnostics and toggle (TCS) up to step 20/xx. xx should be OFF, shift to neutral and xx should be ON. Shift back to 1st.
Go to step 80/xx, xx should be OFF, press RES+ and xx should be ON.
Go to step 81/xx, xx should be OFF, press SET- and xx should be ON.
Go to step 82/xx, xx should be OFF, pull the front brake lever and xx should be ON.
Stay on step 82/xx, xx should be OFF, press the rear brake pedal and xx should be ON.
Stay on step 82/xx, xx should be OFF, pull the clutch lever and xx should be ON.
Stay on step 82/xx, xx should be OFF, turn the throttle backwards and xx should be ON.
Go to step 83/xx, xx should be OFF, pull the front brake lever and xx should be ON.
Stay on step 83/xx, xx should be OFF, press the rear brake pedal and xx should be ON.
Step 82 tests the cruise cancel switches, step 83 tests the brake light switches.

Problems with the throttle roll back switch are rare, but it's possible for the cables to be incorrectly adjusted, or even displaced. We have also seen cases where the wires from the switch have been damaged/trapped due to careless service work.

Perhaps you can clarify, so we have the whole story in one place.

 

[outdoor]

Thank you so much for the response. Very frustrating trying to find the solution. Here are my results

20 Works. off, then ON
21 OFF when transmission is in gear and clutch pulled
80 works OFF then ON
81 works OFF then ON
82 Is ON
83 is OFF and when brakes are pressed, it GOES ON

If I'm understanding it. It may be related to throttle switch since all the other switches seem to work CLutch, brakes, side stand, neutral, Cruise set/Res.

I disconnected the trottle switch and tested for continuity per service manual. I'm not sure if there is a short, I appear to get continuity sometimes? Not sure if i'm not making consistent contact, or that i should easily get continuity and there is a a short.

 

[thughes317]

Thank you so much for the response. Very frustrating trying to find the solution. Here are my results

20 Works. off, then ON
21 OFF when transmission is in gear and clutch pulled
80 works OFF then ON
81 works OFF then ON
82 Is ON
83 is OFF and when brakes are pressed, it GOES ON

If I'm understanding it. It may be related to throttle switch since all the other switches seem to work CLutch, brakes, side stand, neutral, Cruise set/Res.

I disconnected the trottle switch and tested for continuity per service manual. I'm not sure if there is a short, I appear to get continuity sometimes? Not sure if i'm not making consistent contact, or that i should easily get continuity and there is a a short.

I would recommend cycling each switch several times when testing. When I was having CC issues and performed the above test, I found that the rear brake switch would hang up occasionally (@ once or twice for every 10-15 times I pressed the brake pedal). Replaced rear brakes switch and fixed the problem. YMMV.

 

[Squibb]

Without a wiring diag @outdoor , I'm not sure what the ECU expects to see in normal run condition from the throttle switch.
Have you tried setting cruise, on the road, with the throttle switch either disconnected, or the leads jumped?

Just a thought, we have had riders unable to set CC, yet all the checks read OK; naturally, the tests had been performed with the bike on it's centre stand, unloaded. When out on the road, it was found that the rear brake switch was being activated, usually after a pedal adjustment, a sticky fulcrum or, as @thughes317 mentions, a failed switch.

Beyond that, I guess you have to revisit everything that was touched during the headers/ECU flash work & discuss the issue with whoever reprogrammed the ECU.